Cycling UK Forum

Hi,

TBH I made a right mess of this the first time I did it so hopefully someone else who really knows will be along in a minute with better advice!

I did the axle fittings up much too tight as I didn't really understand what they were doing.

Also I now realise I shouldn't have touched the fixings on on the drive side of the axle.

When I put the axle fittings back on finally I got them as close to the rest of the wheel assembly as I could without it affecting the wheel rotating. So to answer your question:

JimblyWotsits wrote: Presumably it needs to move freely for the wheel to spin, but should still be seated tightly against the bearing itself? Otherwise water etc could get in to the bearing?

Yes I think so. That's what I did anyway.

mattsccm wrote:Are the holes wear marks? Also, is it just worn out? I doubt that model is made as a hard wearing commuter tyre

The holes are just tread wear indicators. When they disappear you're supposed to replace the tyre.

Debs wrote:Does anyone know what the strange rippling is on my rear tyre?

I've no real idea but do you often lock your rear wheel under braking? Or pedal off kerbs? Or run unusually low pressure in the rear?

You could try swapping your front and rear over and see what happens to them both?

I've got a Sirrus, albeit a much older one than yours. As others have suggested changing the tyre pressures will definitely help a lot.

The other thing I'd consider (although this is much less important than correct tyre pressure) is changing the tyres, assuming your bike was supplied with Nimbus tyres and assuming they haven't improved since 2012. I know the ones on my bike were rock hard, really hard to get on and off the wheel if you get a puncture, and also made the bike really unforgiving if things ever get a bit out of shape.

Komoot works well (at least where I am in Herts), especially if you switch to the OSM mapping view so you can see what are footpaths and what are bridleways more easily. Komoot always warns you if your route includes a footpath, and if you try to put a private road in the route it will route you as near to that point as it can get you whilst staying on public roads.

Someone else mentioned the ROW data you can get from the council - that overlayed on to Google Earth Pro (it's free) helps too.

Glad you got it working ☺️

You can sync from the Wahoo app directly to Strava. Set up Strava in Profile / Connected apps in the Elemnt app and then if you are lucky it will sync your old rides. If you're unlucky you'll have to tell it to sync each one manually (History / activity / Upload workout) - I can't remember if it automatically does old rides or not.

Good luck!

Foghat wrote:

sixtoes wrote:@Foghat - It is a FH06KA-401. I replaced the freehub so its definitely the right one.

Thanks for confirming.

What tool did you need to remove/refit the freehub body....a large allen key? Presumably not a specialist tool along the lines of the Shimano TL-FH10 I have for my Dura-Ace 7400/7402/7403 freehubs.

The freehub comes with an 11mm hex key on an adapter that fits on an 8mm hex key, which is all you need to remove it. You'll also need a couple of cone wrenches to get the axle out, I think it was a 19mm and a 15mm but I'm not 100% about that.

@Brucey - All fixed now! Thanks a lot for your help, it made a big difference! I replaced the freehub as when I removed it to clean around it, it was still really sticky. I might have a go and cleaning out the old one when I get time, looks like it can be opened with a dual tip spanner.

@Foghat - It is a FH06KA-401. I replaced the freehub so its definitely the right one.

The utility cyclist wrote:

sixtoes wrote:IMO GP4 Seasons are pretty good at resisting punctures but not quite as good as I had hoped. They do have decent wet grip though, and I thought their feel was pretty good.

What I would watch with them is your tyre clearance as they are really wide. On my wheels The 28mm GP4S tyres measured more like 32mm.

the 28s I fitted to ksyrium SSCs measured 26.5mm, pitiful compared to the Giant tyres which measured an actual 28 on same rim!

Interesting that yours came up narrow, I thought they have a bit of a reputation for being wider than spec. For example at bicyclerollingresistance.com he measured the GP4S 25mm at 27mm. I guess it varies with the wheels.

I should probably add that I think they are overpriced for what they are so I don't use them anymore. On my commute bike I now have Schwalbe CX Comp which obviously don't have the same road grip but are cheap, tough and versatile.

I recently switched my road bike from GP4S to Vittoria Rubino Pro Control G+ Isotech. It's too early to give proper feedback but so far I like them.

IMO GP4 Seasons are pretty good at resisting punctures but not quite as good as I had hoped. They do have decent wet grip though, and I thought their feel was pretty good.

What I would watch with them is your tyre clearance as they are really wide. On my wheels The 28mm GP4S tyres measured more like 32mm.

Thanks again Brucey, that is really helpful. I found the freehub for my wheels on line and you're right, it's like the second type you listed above when I was expecting it to look like the first based on my inexperience.

I'll take the wheel back off and have another go at it as you suggest.

Thanks for that. I blasted it with oil without removing the freehub and reassembled it all, but I don't think the bearings are the problem.

With the chain removed the wheel spins nice and freely. With the chain attached, when freewheeling I have to hold the pedals to stop them from spinning, otherwise the rotating wheel keeps the pedals rotating when they should be still. When I hold the pedals i can feel a lot of drag from the freehub and the wheel stops spinning much quicker than it should.

So I think I need to get to the mechanism (pawls etc.) and clean it out, or replace it, but is there anything else I should try first?

I'm learning a lot about how the week assembly works!

Brilliant, thanks Brucey. I'll get the hammer out.

I'd prefer to leave it at is but it's really gritty and sticky at the moment so I think I need to get properly under it to clean it out. TBH I suspect it might need replacing but I can't tell yet.

Thanks for your help, any other tips more than welcome, this is my first foray into servicing wheel parts!

Hi all, hoping someone can help with this - I can't work out how to get the freehub of a Giant PR-2 Disc wheel. It's a 2016 QR version. I've taken off everything I can see on the axle. The axle now has a bit of lateral movement (about 3mm) but won't come out. I think what I need to do next is hit the axle harder with a soft face hammer from the Non-Drive side, but I'm worried about damaging the bearings or something else. Anyone got experience with something that looks similar?

Thanks in advance!

The wheel

Non-Drive side bolts removed

Non-Drive side hub view

Drive side bolts removed

Drive side hub view