Cycling UK Forum

good evening folks,

Can anybody out there help me to solve a small problem,

how can I stop the front mech clamp marking or rubbing my seat tube paintwork when securing and adjusting ?

Alloy, plastic, strips/bushes etc.

regards Tom.

Thanks both for help,

Dave, the double cable stop may work, could do with a wider gap between the cable stops but worth a try,

The desighn of the suntour quille stem double lever action is as I push down as I do normally to go to the lowest gear (Largest cog) the cable goes loose) It still seems was desighned to work the opposit to the Shimano range down pull to rest on the smallest cog.

PS model Suntour accushift.

Thanks Dave

Explination very good thanks for your trouble,

It is sometimes difficult to explain problems I will have to say sorry to Steve I have missled you It was a double lever quille stem I was after as I am not happy with the old downtube version

Thank you for your concern

Regards Tom

Have got a pair of Morph droppes as you have described,

I think they are marked 3T but it is a funny logo, they are as new, just converted to flats on my Longstaff touring bike, they are black 410 mm c/c narrow from curve to hoods and have a slight backward angle.They are 26 mm thickness at centre at point of stem fitting

I also have the Nitto as stated as well, which had to be ordered from the States, they are longer at 430mm c/centre deeper drop and longer from bend of bar to hood, engraved with a backward slope lovely bars, again 26 mm at centre of bars at point of stem fitting.
If intrested can we be sensible on price please

Regards
Tom

Hallo again out there,


Still working on my Major Nichols cycle,

Have been given a set of Suntour quille handle bar mounted gear mechs changers the one changer can be index, other friction. I know it sounds silly but were Suntour reverse acting (Lever fully released chain runs to the larger rear cog?) Does it mean that this cannott be used on the now standard rear derailiur set up?9 Huret type. I have tried all permitations and am at a loss at the moment.
Also has anyone got tucked away a double cable stop clamp on type, to take the place of the down tube changers please, a little stuck at the moment on the older spares required.

Regards Tom

Thanks Gaz for your prompt reply,

I have missled you I think,

I have the mech etc the bike is original including the componants, all required is the friction thumb shift lever etc to match the one mentioned that will be used on the cogs ( no cassett in those days) a flat bar friction thump lever,

Again thanks for your help,

appreciated

Tom

Hallo all,

I am converting my Major Nichols cycle 1p60's pride and joy to a flat handle bar configeration, and I require a double mech changer that will match an SL-MY-20, 6 cog changer, this model can be friction and used on the handle bar thus allowing the cofigeration to work,

Regards

Tom

Thank you Andrew for your help,

Don't quite understand how you set up on middle ring and adjust up with the Limit screws as this involves the outer ring adjustement as well,

Regards

Tom

Dear all,

Does anyone know the physical difference between 105 triple mech and an R773 mech used on the flat bar set up using r770 shifters, road equipment. tech info not listed on the Shimano web pages,
regards,
tom

Well at a loss at the moment,

Rear mech doesn't seem to have any wear, the symptom is as if the cable adjustement is slightly too slack causing the chain to roll down to the next cog too slow but if I adjust it it rolls to the upper cog there doesn't seem a correct place?
Any way we will await the next issue,

Thanks again for your help
Tom

Thanks for the prompt reply,

Cables are ok, chain 2 months old I thought also that it may be a worn cog on the cassett, but as stated I am finding it hard to asses this due to the configeration and shape of individual teeth, I have tried to match it with a new one but it looks simular, you think that the move fronm the hyperglide chain does not matter?

Again thanks for the promt reply,
Tom

Hallo out there,

I have a problem with my rear cassette when changing gear,

on 5th - 4th cog the chain is slow to change down ( taking a complete cog to complete the action) all other cogs fine, I have set the cable tension a number of times correctly to no avail. The cassette is a Shimano 11-32-H G 70
Could this be that it requires the hyperglide chain and not the KMC fitted at the moment,
Last question I have been checking the cassette for wear and I am having difficalty in doing this due to the desighn of the cogs how do you asses this please?

Regards Tom

Hears one for you techs to mull over,

Has anyone got a Stein hub vice going spare if not another make please,

Regards Tom

To all the techs out there,


Having replaced my freewheel hub on my Thorn sherpa ,on attempting adjustment of the cones (quick release) I cannot carry out the usual procedure of leaving slight looseness to account for axle flexing when on final adjustment, it acts as if I am adjusting standard fixed nut axle, i.e. if left slightly loose it stays that way when quick release lever is moved to the closed position, where ever the setting is up the point of being to tight, any ideas please

Regards Tom

Thanks all,

just to ask again any else come across the second question before we put this item to bed,

Thank you all for your advice

Regards Tom

Thanks Chris,
Bit confused, zepher chain rings same pcd are on the TA, spa, and chicken web sites

Regards

Tom