Cycling UK Forum

Setting the Assistance Level
The level of assistance of the eBike drive when pedaling can
be adjusted via the HMI. The assistance level can be changed
anytime, even during riding.
Note: For individual versions, it is possible that the the assistance level is pre-set and cannot be changed. It is also possible that less assistance levels are available for selection than
listed here.
The following assistance levels (max.) are available:
– “OFF”: The drive is switched off, the eBike can be operated as a normal bicycle through pedaling.
– “ECO”: Effective assistance at maximum efficiency for
maximum cruising range
– “TOUR”: Uniform assistance, for touring with long cruising
range
– “SPORT”: Powerful assistance for sportive riding off road
as well as for urban traffic
– “TURBO”: Maximum assistance, supporting highest cadence for sportive riding
To increase the assistance level, press the “+” button 13 on
the operating unit until the desired assistance level is displayed in indicator b; to decrease the assistance level, press
the “–” button 12.
The requested motor output is displayed in indicator a. The
maximum motor output depends on the selected assistance
level.
When the HMI is removed from holder 4, the last indicated assistance level is stored; the motor-output indicator a remains
empty.
The battery is fully charged.
The battery should be recharged.
Assistance Level Assistance Factor*
“ECO” 40 %
“TOUR” 100 %
“SPORT” 150 %
“TURBO” 225 %

Greystoke wrote:A bike like that will keep going for donkeys years. My commuter bike's done thousands of miles and it's similar quality. As long as everything is properly greased and maintained it'll be fine.

Carlton green wrote:It’s cleaned up nicely and you can now picture using the freewheel remover and see where it would (should) fit into (measure those bits and confirm that they match the remover’s stated dimensions.

To my eyes there is some wear on the freewheel and so it won’t work well with a new chain (you replaced the chain). As Chain and Freewheel wear together they need to be replaced at the same time. The assumption is made that the derailleur is tensioning the chain (as it should) and that the chain length is correct.

The next stage is to somehow get that freewheel off and once removed to then purchase and fit a replacement. Is the freewheel fitted a shimano copy? If so then I’d fit a shimano replacement of the same number of gears and tooth range.

whoof wrote:

Spies wrote:Could anyone also explain why the race nut on the stem isn't a nut but just a round collar? What are you meant to use to tighten it when the stem has play in it?

Because it's a relatively low end head set.Tighten the bottom collar with a pair of mole grips so that there is no play but the bars turn freely and then whilst holding the collar clamp the nut down on to this with a large adjustable spanner.