Cycling UK Forum

MartinS wrote: ↑24 May 2023, 8:00pm The problem is clearly the tyre bead sticking in the groove at the rim edge of tubeless compatible rim so will try 2 layers of rim tape which seems a possible solution.

Make sure it's tubeless rim tape which has a smooth surface.

Here's a useful website https://one.network/public which, if I interpret it correctly, says that bridge is closed until 2nd July.

I think all the local authorities are encouraged to upload all their approved roadworks to that site so it's a useful place to check for obstacles. If you start getting nag messages and time delays when viewing the info then register as a member of the public.

I've found out the expensive way that to get the best comfort from a steel frame then it needs to be designed for the weight of the rider and any baggage. A touring bike with a lightweight rider and no baggage is likely to give a harsh ride.

PH wrote: ↑23 May 2023, 1:37pm Worth it for what? I'm at a loss to understand what use anyone has for such accurate data, what do you do with it?

With a speed sensor fitted I can see what speed I'm climbing a hill that I visit frequently. It's usually between 2.8 and 3.2mph depending on how my legs are feeling. Without the speed sensor the Garmin isn't sure if I'm moving or stopped.

I've not yet had problems unseating tyres, both tubeless and tubed, from tubeless rims. Some tyres release from the grooves once the pressure has gone and others release by squeezing with fingers and thumb. Does the rim tape fitted by the shop extend across the full inner width of the rim? If not, I would suggest adding a layer or two of tubeless rim tape that's about 5mm wider than the internal width of the rim. This tape will extend into the bead seat and both provide a smoother contact surface and reduce fractionally the ability of the bead to lock into the rim.

andrew_s wrote: ↑23 May 2023, 2:11am I did consider Spa saddles, but from what I could gather there's a nylon layer laminated to the underside which hinders the development of dimples.

Some of the Spa leather saddles are now available without the backing (which I believe was indented to waterproof the underside) but isn't needed by the folk who believe in using mudguards.

Psamathe wrote: ↑23 May 2023, 10:43am

Manc33 wrote: ↑23 May 2023, 3:54am I never even thought about putting a speed sensor on. Does that end up taking priority over the GPS for speed, max speed, average speed and distance?

It does on my Garmins (1030 and 1040).

But it costs money.

The speed sensor is much cheaper than the Garmin Edge and the cheaper sensors should work OK.

I find that the better measurement of speed without the system needing to average GPS readings is worth it. As already noted, distance seems to be elastic - put several Garmin Edges on your handlebars and each will give a different answer. If save 1 second data and then export the gpx file from Garmin Connect and load into Google Earth then you will get yet another answer (is this the plan distance or the actual distance including going up and down hills?). You can look closely at the plotted data points and see whether the 1 second data closely follows the route you used.

I tried various versions of the Spa Nidd saddle but none became sufficiently comfortable and I then invested in a Gilles Berthoud Aravis saddle which better suited the needs of my posterior, perhaps because it's a little narrower than the Nidd.

1. I've concluded that my hip structure isn't quite symmetrical as I've created a bigger sit bone depression on the right side than the left side. This has happened with several saddles so it's not a variation in the leather. I suspect you are similarly asymmetrical.

2. The spacing of your sit bones gets narrower the further you lean forwards which is why racing saddles are narrow and the seats on the shopping bikes are wide. So you can't satisfactorily move the saddle between bikes which have different postures.

3. Brooks have the benefit of having been around for a long time.

Fitting a speed sensor means that the Edge knows for sure if the bike is stopped or moving without needing to worry about the uncertainty of GPS accuracy. I regularly record a speed below 3mph when climbing a hill and the Edge responds very quickly to stops and starts.

The Edge can be set to auto-calibrate the speed sensor. I don't know exactly how (it must use the GPS data), or how frequently, it does this but it seems better than my efforts to measure the tyre circumference. My logs show a distance fluctuation of about 0.4% on a standard 23 mile circuit which seems correspond to the fluctuation in tyre pressure.

It may be worthwhile trying the padded boxers made by Endura for use under normal shorts.

doffcocker wrote: ↑18 May 2023, 12:31pm Thanks, I'm very keen to buy a left crank arm that sticks out less.

The only thing that makes me wonder about this though is, is it the done/normal thing to have odd crank arms or does it come with its own issues?

If you can fit a square taper bottom bracket then they are available in a range of lengths eg https://www.firstcomponents.com/wp-cont ... sembly.pdf.

This can give you a non-drive side offset from the centreline (A1 on the above drawing) a few mm shorter than the drive side offset.

ANTONISH wrote: ↑18 May 2023, 8:13am

JohnR wrote: ↑17 May 2023, 10:19pm Fitting smaller wheels (584 rims + 650B tyres) will lower the bottom bracket by 19mm relative to the same size tyres on 622 rims. I've done this on my Spa Elan. However, one hazard with getting the bottom bracket low is pedal strike on the ground when leaning into a bend. I've not had this problem but fitting 165mm cranks to ease the stress on my aging knees reduces this risk.

I assume you had disc brakes? Or did you use long drop rim brakes ? I ask because I've long considered this but had doubts about my rim brakes.

Yes, disc brakes - once I had ridden a bike with them and discoved the more reliable braking in wet and mucky conditions then my rim-braked bikes got re-homed. I've forgotten that there are still plenty of bikes that still use rim brakes although the frame mentioned by the OP is disk brake-ready https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m11b0s143p4 ... r-Frameset so using a different wheel size is not a problem.

Fitting smaller wheels (584 rims + 650B tyres) will lower the bottom bracket by 19mm relative to the same size tyres on 622 rims. I've done this on my Spa Elan. However, one hazard with getting the bottom bracket low is pedal strike on the ground when leaning into a bend. I've not had this problem but fitting 165mm cranks to ease the stress on my aging knees reduces this risk.

It might be worthwhile asking Spa Cycles if a bike such as this https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m1b0s223p47 ... ANCE-OFFER can be built with flat handlebars and a chainset such as this https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p35 ... cral-Rings with 53/40 chainrings.

cycle tramp wrote: ↑27 Apr 2023, 7:33pm Nice.. Do you reckon it would work with a rear derailleur?

Only if there's only a single chainring and few cogs in the cassette. From https://www.hebie.de/en/protection/chai ... lider/359/
"suitable for hub gears, or combined hub gear/derailleur (e.g. SRAM Dual Drive or Shimano Intego, etc.)"

The constraint is the lateral deflection of the cover for the upper part of the chain.