Cycling UK Forum

One point I haven't seen mentioned is that spongy hydraulic brakes can be temporarily improved by pumping them. I learnt this when I first got a car at a time when vehicles required a lot more maintenance (eg change the engine oil every 3,000 miles) than is now the case and the same need for more frequent attention applied to the brakes.

I've been putting off bleeding my Clarks Clout 1 hydraulics which I put on the bike about 6 months ago (straight out of the box, pre-assembled with the hoses and fluid) because I'm waiting for nicer weather as I also need to shorten the plumbing. I don't have the problem of the levers running out of travel but I have noticed that if I squeeze, release and squeeze again then the movement of the levers on the second squeeze is much reduced.

Here's a typical tubeless rim:
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/smsimg/195/ ... -2-195.jpg
The distinctive feature is the flat (or even sloping outwards) shoulders to the central depression. This helps the tyre beads move outwards and lock into place.

al_yrpal wrote: ↑8 Mar 2023, 12:37pm [Just tried the Met Office Weather App. Much better than the BBC! Actually identifies my location instead of saying I live in a village 2 miles away.

I live on the edge of a town and the BBC forecast defaults to a nearby village. This, however, is useful because it gives temperature and wind forecasts more appropriate to where I go cycling in the countryside while the town forecast takes account of heat island and wind drag caused by buildings. The Met Office's rainfall mapping is extremely useful in showing the rainfall behaviour and identifying windows of opportunity to get out for an hour or two with lower risk of getting wet.

Spa Cycles also has a big range of cranks https://spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p0/Drivetrain/Chainsets .

The Knog Oi Luxe bell is much better (and more expensive) than the classic version while still taking up minimal space on the handlebar.

geocycle wrote: ↑14 Mar 2023, 2:24pm

JohnR wrote: ↑13 Mar 2023, 2:13pm Get the Spa Cycles Elan (I recommend the titanium version) viewtopic.php?t=154970 .

Seconded. Based on the OPs requirements an elan would seem a good choice. It can also be specced in many different ways adapting to circumstances as things change. A trip to Harrogate is needed!

Perhaps it's worth noting that the Elan was designed with older folk in mind eg viewtopic.php?p=1685607&sid=64cd6004c0a ... 8#p1685607. They are also very customisible. Mine has the Rohloff hub gears and Ergotec AHS handlebars. I discovered a bit late (ie after spending money on a steel frame) that titanium gives a more comfortable ride than steel. The weight reduction is a bonus.

Get the Spa Cycles Elan (I recommend the titanium version) viewtopic.php?t=154970 .

Here's a 35mm Schwalbe G-One Allround on a 21mm internal width rim. 40psi tubeless, if that's relevant. I feel much safer cornering on those than when using tyres with a squarer profile.

My solution to this problem is to fit Ergotec AHS handlebars (available from SJS Cycles https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebars/ ... amp-silver among other places) onto which I've fitted Ergon GP1L grips and these Ergotec rubber grips (both cut to fit). The rubber grips are much more durable than the foam supplied with the bars. I've been very happy with this solution which provides alternative hand positions and avoids the problem of the ends snagging on passing objects. One consideration, however, is the load rating which is that the rider + baggage should be below 100kg.

Here's the cross section of the Kinlin TL-21 rims with which, so far, I've had no problem seating tubeless tyres.
https://spacycles.co.uk/m20b0s116p4025/KINLIN-TL-21
The flat shoulders each side of the central depression help the beads to slide into place. I normally use a track pump but, IIRC, finding that a hand pump will work provided I've lubricated the beads with some diluted washing up liquid (I keep some in the tool bag in one of those small shampoo bottles found in some hotels). If a tyre is a bit loose on the rims then another layer or two of tubeless tape will reduce the gap through which the air escapes before the beads seat properly.

While my Thorn Mercury came fitted with tubeless G-One Speed tyres I found they were impossible to inflate without help from several blasts an air tank without the valve core in place. Seating Gravelking SK tyres tubeless on those rims was impossible. I then figured out that they weren't tubeless-ready rims and did some homework before specifying the rims for my built-to-order wheels.

So far, I've had no ride-stopping punctures with tubeless tyres but I've only done pedalled about six thousand miles on tubeless. I did discover, however, evidence of small sealed-up holes (mainly on the rear) when I removed the G-One Speed tyres from the Mercury. When I first got tubeless tyres I worried about what would happen when there was a puncture but I'm now much more confident about the system. However, I take the precaution of carrying some plugs, some tyre boots and a spare tube in the tool bag (plus some small pliers for undoing the nut on the tubeless valve) just in case there's a serious problem.

A few months ago I had a pair of 584/650B wheels built to replace 622/700C because I (i) wanted to lower the bottom bracket so I could put more than a toe on the ground when stopped (I like to remain seated on saddle when stopped) and (ii) increase the saddle - back wheel clearance for fitting luggage. My chosen rims were Kinlin TL-21 tubeless-ready onto which I've fitted Schwalbe G-One Allround tubeless tyres (front is 35mm and rear, which carries more load, is 40mm). Every now and again I pump them up to 40psi (my weight is ~64kg) and they need topping up every couple of weeks. The tyres seat willingly onto those rims and once the beads have latched into place they need a bit of force to get them unseated.

The ride quality on rough bits of road is the best I've had. The titanium Spa Cycles Elan frame (thanks 531colin for designing it) must help with absorbing the bumps as it's more comfortable than a Thorn Mercury with 50mm tubeless tyres (which I ran at about 30psi) as the Mercury was designed for load than I needed. The 584 rims on the Elan means there's just room for 50mm tyres should I want to venture offroad.

Sandhouse wrote: ↑1 Mar 2023, 10:54pm Hi, I’m considering a 52cm Elan, would normally look more at a 54cm frame but the Elan seems to come up pretty big. I see from your pics you also have a lot of spacers under the stem - could I ask how tall you are? I’m 178cm. I would go and try one out but I live way too far away.

I'm somewhat shorter than you and have a 52cm Elan. See my comments at viewtopic.php?p=1755594&sid=c8fd91e0256 ... 6#p1755594.

Change the pads again (or thoroughly clean them) and also clean the rotor with some brake cleaner. It's possible that your Rohloff hub has seeped a little oil which has got onto the rotor. If doing an oil change on the Rohloff hub then ignore the recommended 25ml of fresh oil and only add 15ml which is plenty as some of the previous oil remains in the hub. Too much oil increases the risk of leakage along the axle (I've been there).

Manc33 wrote: ↑26 Feb 2023, 3:40am Sore bum?
Suntour NCX.

Did anyone mention that the high handlebars shown in the photo result in an upright seating position which needs a wide saddle such as the Brooks B67?

https://www.bikeadventures.co.uk/why-bi ... questions/
"Do we need cycling helmets?

A cycling helmet is not compulsory on Bike Adventures trips (except where required by the laws of that country), however we do recommend that you wear one as an added safety precaution."