Cycling UK Forum

james01 wrote: ↑23 May 2021, 2:21pm Top of my list is "Lawyer's Lips" on front forks. I have a special list of foul oaths for the bright spark who invented them.

You'll appreciate them if the front wheel ever works loose.

It's fixed. I ordered a replacement rear light from the same brand and design with the stop light feature. The circuit board has a capacitor on it.

Looks like my original hypothesis was correct - the lights were sold as a pair with the front light containing the capacitor. Possibly an OEM only version to save cost.

Yes, I came to realise that the resistance of the coils is low enough to be regarded as continuity. The good news is that the hub still works fine.

I've taken the back light apart. Inside are 4 diodes and an LED. i.e: a rectifier. There's no capacitor so it has no ability to hold charge. I believe the old front light was running as the master and feeding AC when the wheel was spinning and DC from capacitor when stopped. I'll read the specs of the old and new front light.

The old front light was a Spanninga Kendo+ with an XDA label on it https://spanninga.com/product/kendo/
The rear light looks like one of these which is also a Spanninga unit, a Pixeo: https://spanninga.com/product/pixeo/

The description doesn't eliminate all doubt but it does suggest that the safe-stop function is relying on the front light.
"The dynamo version of the PIXEO features the innovative Safe-Stop function. This function makes the light burn for 4 extra minutes after the bike stops and increases the safety for you as a cyclist tremendously."

"* The dynamo version of the PIXEO is connected to the dynamo (3W) via the headlamp."

The new front light is one of these https://www.bikester.co.uk/busch-muelle ... 23459.html

I've seen this Pixeo XS on Amazon and I think you can see a capacitor through the lens: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007MJTKIA? ... yp_imgToDp

The rear light is working fine when the front wheel is turning. I'm going to hope that it just needs charging up for longer. I'll take it out for 10 minutes later on as a test.

Yes, that's why I'm asking now, because it no longer does it. The rear light used to stay on for several minutes when I stopped.

I'm wondering if the rear light has its own capacitor inside it. I'll ride around for longer and see what happens.

I've got a hub dynamo powering front and rear lights with a capacitor to keep the lights on for a few minutes after stopping.

The system failed and I traced it to the front light, which I've replaced. The old light was a Kenda Plus by Spanninga. The new front light is a Busch + Müller Lumotec Lyt T senso plus.
With the new set up then the front light works and it stays on at reduced power when I stop pedalling. The rear light seems to turn off straight away when I stop.

I'm not sure how the system used to work. Was there a single capacitor in the front light with the rear light piggy backing off its control, or was the rear light independent, with just the power from the front light to charge it?

I used the dished one and it all worked well.

I've got a Shimano DH-3D37 front hub dynamo. It stopped working last week. On one ride it worked fine, on the next ride there was nothing. I measured the output using a multimeter and it couldn't detect any consistent voltage. I was expecting 6v AC. I took it apart and couldn't find anything obvious wrong. Upon reassembly and testing I found that the two terminals had continuity between them and still no voltage when the wheel was rotated. I might have damaged the positive wire during reassembly or it might have been the original issue, I'm not sure.

I noticed that there's a lot of internal assemblies for sale online so I'm guessing that issues can occur with these. Is buying a replacement hub the best option?

Availability of the internal assembly is limited so I'm considering buying a DH-3D37-QR 104 mm (quick release) version and swapping all the parts over or putting a QR skewer through it to replace the end nut shaft I currently have.

Are any of the other internal parts interchangeable? From another thread:
DH-3N30 et al - copper windings, utility grade
DH-3D37 et al - alu windings, utility grade
DH-3N72 et al - copper windings, sport series
DH-3N80 et al - alu windings, sport series

I took it apart and fixed it. I removed a cover on the top of the shifter and inside is the pivot for sideways movement of the lever. Loosening the nut allowed the lever to move properly. I used threadlock to hold the nut in a slightly less tight position.

I've abandoned it for a bit. I'll go back to the garage and take the shifter off the bike and look more closely.

I had a bike 30 years ago with non indexed shifters on the down tube. It was a good system, it never needed indexing, just move the lever until silence. I've never been totally convinced by the Shimano combined levers and I agree that the contorted cable route is not ideal.

Shimano 105 combined brake and shifter. Left hand, front mech, 2 x 10.

When pushing to the right to change up to the big ring the lever doesn't come back, it sticks. I've taken the cable out and it's nothing to do with that, it's something inside the shifter. It's the original shifter on a 2014 bike that I've covered 6,000 km over a few years. Before that it covered a few 1000s km probably with the previous owner. I've tried WD40 in the mechanism but it hasn't made much difference.
Could this just be wear?

I've got a cheap trailer. I've found when loading logs onto it that if they stick out the front then it's fine, if they stick out the back then it starts wagging. Apparently this is well known in the trailer towing world, something to do with the polarity of the mass that's wagging relative to the wheel pivot point. Or something like that.

I've had bikes with 3x10 and 2x10, both of which I like. I recently put a brand new 3x10 system onto a new build and I love it. I really can't see the benefits of 1x systems apart from on full suspension bikes where the chain force can be put through the pivot point to stop chain suck.