Cycling UK Forum

Contrary to the advice in the link in Paulatic's post, I have toured with two pairs of shoes at the same time. A pair of SPD cycling shoes and a pair of lidle/aldi leather/velco sandals. The sandals pack quiet small but the cycling shoes take up quite a bit of space. I use shimano pedals with SPD's on one side and a flat platform on the other (PD-M324 ?). I put the sandals on when it starts raining. The rationale is that once it stops raining your feet dry out quickly and once to road dries out you can put the ordinary cycle shoes back on. I hate having wet cycle shoes because you feet end up wet all day after even a brief soaking. You have to be a hardy to do this in early spring or late autumn though.

I don't recommend sandals for hot sunny weather, I can't take the sun burn.

Cowsham wrote: ↑12 Apr 2021, 12:59pm

6.5_lives_left wrote: ↑11 Apr 2021, 10:13pm It was my parents turn to have their second vaccine shot last Friday. I took them to the vaccination centre. Everything went smoothly. I didn't ask them if they had any effects after the injections but I have seen them since and they are fine.

Which cv19 vaccine did they get?

I am not certain but I think my parents had the Pfizer.
My Brother and I had AZ and we both had 24 hours of shivering, loss of appetite and generally feeling grotty, though fine after that.
(and I will gladly put up with that in preference to serious illness from contracting a dose of Covid-19).

It was my parents turn to have their second vaccine shot last Friday. I took them to the vaccination centre. Everything went smoothly. I didn't ask them if they had any effects after the injections but I have seen them since and they are fine.

I had my first dose of Oxford AZ on the 28 March midday.

I arrived by bike an hour early to scope out the place, but the volunteers manning the gates said no need to wait, they will process you right away. Took 15 to 20 minutes. I was released straight away. Took the long route home and fitted in a visit to the supermarket to get the groceries too. I felt fine on the journey home.

I felt cold and shivering when I went to bed. Today (following day) I was still feeling rough and I spent part of the day in bed. Not much appetite.

My younger brother had his first dose before me on the 19 March. He had similar symptoms to me. I drove him to the vaccination centre which was at Wycombe Wanders football ground. There was a really noticeable traffic flow which indicates that they were vaccinating a lot of people that day.

Edit: 2 days after the Injection and I am back to my normal self

I don't have a hot air gun. I used to have access to a hot air solder rework tool in work, which worked very well, but I no longer have access to that.

I also have my own soldering iron but I don't seem to get the heatshrink to work with that. Either the iron is too cool and the heatshrink doesn't, or the iron is too hot and the heatshrink burns on to the iron.

What does work for me is a cheap disposable butane cigarette lighter. You need to hold the heatshrink at quite a distance above the flame otherwise it burns. Also you have to stop every once in a while to allow the lighter to cool down because they are not built to burn continuously. If you were careless, the whole lot could blow up in your face! Be careful (maybe not such a bright idea).

rogerzilla wrote:[snip] Given that this kit is aimed at casual riders, it is incredibly complex to work on!

I would certainly agree with that, though when the hub is working it works very well.

I would suggest that anyone who gets a new bike with one of these Shimano hub gears for the first time should take it home and immediately take the rear wheel off to practice. At home it will be clean, dry and warm and you will have all the tools that you need at hand.

Even better, if you are buying the bike from a bike shop, get the staff at the bike shop to demonstrate how to do and then let you the customer try do do the same before the bike even leaves the store. Not all stores would be prepared to do that, but I would hope the good ones would. I think Third Crank might have made that suggestion in the dim and distant past.

You don't want to be learning how to do this at the side of the road in the middle of nowhere the first time you have a puncture. I was fortunate, my first puncture occurred while I was at work.

burroc,
that thing that you are rotating is called the cassette joint.

You can find an exploded view datasheet for it on the Shimano technical documents website here

There is more than one type of cassette joint. If you look in the document linked above it shows pictures for one called CJ-NX10 and another called CJ-NX40 but they are compatible with each other and work the same. You can see the arm that takes the gear cable outer. I am going to assume that this arm is horizontal in that drawing and also on your bicycle (It is on more than one of my bikes). If you put your bike into gear 1, the cassette joint will be rotated into a position that looks exactly like that drawing (either of them). Imagine looking at the cassette joint from the the right hand side of the bike along the line of where the axle should be. If you look at the 9 o'clock position, there is a little tab at the outer edge of the cassette joint. That tab has the hole in it where you can stick the 2mm allen key. (It also take an old spoke which is the same diameter).

When you are ready to take the back wheel out, it is probably easiest to

1) put the gear selector into gear 1

2) pop the 2mm allen key into the hole in the cassette joint and rotate the cassette joint to slacken off the gear control cable inner (the return spring in the hub will want to keep the gear cable inner taught).

3) pop the end of the gear cable out of the cassette joint while the gear cable is slack

4a) If you have a CJ-NX10, slip the ferrule, on the end of the gear cable outer, out of the horizontal arm of the cassette joint. This entirely disconnects the gear cable inner and gear cable outer from the cassette joint. The rear wheel can then be removed from the bike with the cassette joint still attached to the hub.

4b) If yo have a CJ-NX40, slip the bits labelled item 15 in the document above out of the horizontal arm of the cassette joint. That will entirely disconnect the gear cable inner and outer from the cassette joint. Then you can remove the rear wheel with cassette joint still attached.

It might be that you can't get the gear cable outer to release from the cassette joint because it is too stiff to shift. Try using small pliers to grip them in that case, but don't be too brutal that you damage the ferrule or item 15. If they won't shift you can remove the cassette joint from the hub using the cassette joint fixing ring (item 10), but that is a last resort because refitting the cassette joint is a real pig. Ask again if you have to do that.

5) putting the wheel back. Get the wheel in the dropouts with the arm of the cassette joint facing the right way. Slip the gear outer back into the arm of the cassette joint. Make sure it is all the way home because if it isn't or shifts after you have assembled everything, the gear selections will be out.

6) rotate the cassette joint with the 2mm allen key

7) pop the end of the cable back into the circular slot in the cassette joint. Notice how the pieces that make up item 8 are orientated.

HTH

alexnharvey wrote:

hamster wrote:

alexnharvey wrote:Except in that case they were discussing a disc brake hub which impose greater torque forces at the hub compared with a rim brake wheel, which this hub is I think (3N80)?

The forces are identical as the braking force is on the rotating part of the hub, not the axle / cones.

In one case the braking force is on acting first on one side of the hub while in the other the braking force is on the rim, transmitted to the hub via the spokes on both sides? Won't the peak loadings be smaller?

alexnharvey

please don't take this the wrong way.

This is about rider safety (i.e. avoiding injury or death).

Shimano have have identified a failure mechanism whereby if their dynamo hub is used in the incorrect manner, by running it in the opposite direction of rotation to that indicated, it is possible for the front wheel to lock solid. If this happens at an inopportune moment, say on a fast decent or in traffic, it could result in the rider being pitched over the handlebars and as a result suffering injury or death.

CJ and Brucey have identified different mechanisms whereby this might come about. You may not understand their description of the mechanisms (I have some difficulty understanding this too). But I believe them when CJ, Brucey, and Shimano say the wheel can lock solid with little or no warning when used incorrectly.

If you have one of these dynamo hubs, no one will stop you from running it in reverse. It's your neck if you break it. But please be careful not to encourage other people to do likewise and put their lives in danger.

It is a question of rider safety. Do you want to be violently thrown over the handlebars when the front wheel locks solid?

Link to CJ's post

Brucey has said in the past that he doesn't think it is a good idea either.

I will hold off on that test ride for now.

I have in the garage some "Granville EPEX 80/90 hypoid gear oil"

The blurb says:

Ablend of high qualiy base oils and extreme pressure additives, designed to exceed the following specifications:-

MIL-L-2105
API GL5

Avoid contact with skin and eyes

Does that sound like the right stuff?

I did a trial mix 50%/50% in tiny 10ml tub about 15 minutes ago and it didn't go lumpy. Should I wait 24 hours just to be sure it doesn't curdle?

Thanks, 6.5_lives_left

Thanks Jdsk, reading now...

Jdsk wrote:

fastpedaller wrote:What I'd like to know is.... what is the definition of Wanton & Furious?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Causing_bodily_harm_by_wanton_or_furious_driving
[snip]
Jonathan

Going off-topic, I followed the link to wikipedia above where it said

In England and Wales, this offence is now used to prosecute:

* drivers of horse-drawn carriages and vehicles
* motorists who cannot be prosecuted for dangerous driving because they were driving elsewhere than on a road or public place, or because they were not warned that prosecution was intended pursuant to section 1 of the Road Traffic Offenders Act 1988
* cyclists who cannot be prosecuted for dangerous cycling because they were cycling elsewhere than on a road, or because they were not warned that prosecution was intended pursuant to section 1 of the Road Traffic Offenders Act 1988[3]

My emphasis

Is there an offence of "dangerous cycling" or is that just something on a legislator's wish list?

Also https://xkcd.com/386/ (and it might be me).

Hi Brucey,

Good news. I have put the hub back together and re-assembled the bike. It seems to be working OK.

I have only had the wheels turning with the bike lifted off the floor using the bike stand but it seems to be OK. All the gear ranges work. The hub rumbles much less than it did previously while freewheeling. Also it will freewheel for about 35 seconds if you spin the wheel up compare to about 5 seconds before. And the pedals don't want to spin round while the back wheel is freewheeling like before.

I reused the original metal ball retainer for the moment.

I will take the bike out with wheels on tarmac when it stops raining.

I degreased and re-lubed the hub internals with fresh grease. Initially I tried this without dismantling the hub internals but the grease didn't seem to penetrate all the working parts. The gear change seemed really rough, even after leaving the internal hub vertical with the right hand side down overnight to encourage the grease to soak in. Eventually I worked out to remove the C-clip (item 2) and the Carrier Unit 2 (item 4). That exposed the sleeve around the axle that moves the pawl that operates on Carrier Unit 2. I could see the sleeve moving back and forth in the channel when I operated the gear change. I dropped grease down that channel while operating the gear change (with the internals vertical, right hand side down) until copious grease leaked from the Right Hand Cone Seal (item 21). I spent about 40 minutes trying to work the grease through but a lot of that time was probably wasted because I only realise that the grease had worked through after I removed the cassette joint that I was using to operate the gear change. The gear change was much smoother after doing this.

I dropped the Carrier Unit 2 back in place and replace the C-clip. I tried not move the planetary gears to keep the timing right.

I am hoping that will be enough to get the grease everywhere it needs to go.

Thanks Brucey,
that has put my mind at ease.

You are right, it is a steel retainer. I will follow your advice and try to get hold of one of those acetyl retainers.

Apologies for this reading like War and Peace.

I have a Nexus 7 C3001-7D hub which has a disk brake fitted. I did some maintenance on it but I seem to have suffered from same sort of problem that gbnz described in the Should I stop maintaining my bike? thread because the hub is working much more badly than before I started the maintenance . Indeed I have it in bits currently.

Shimano's exploded view datasheet is here: EV-SG-C3001-7D-4221B.pdf

I wanted to clean the outside of the hub (not the internals) because I recently (and unwisely) went on a ride on bridle paths where the mud guards got choked up with mud and grit. My bike has a full chain case but even so some muck stuck to the area between the gear sprocket and the hub and I want to clear out the muck before worked its way into the chain.

Some history of the hub. It has done about 5000 mile. About 1500 miles was done with the hub greased as shipped from the factory. For the remaining 3500 miles I filled it with Land Rover swivels semi fluid grease (SFG), hence my reluctance to remove the hub internals. The hub has worked flawlessly from the start and silently since adding the SFG.

There has been a small amount of leakage of the SFG but it has mostly come out of the right had side (RHS) where it has gone on to the sprocket and then on to the chain. Some SFG also gets on to the large RHS dustcap (Right Hand Dust Cap B) where it usually drops on the road but you occasionally see streaks of SFG on the rim and tyre but nothing to get worried about. The SFG on the chain together with the full chain case means that chain is well lubricated, not contaminated with dirt and has very little wear. There is only the tiniest bit of leakage on the left hand side and this was only enough to wet the outside surface of the dust cap of the LHS cone. The locking ring for the centerlock braking disk seems to form a lip that prevents any SFG getting on to the disk braking surfaces.

What maintenance did I do after the muddy ride? I removed the rear wheel, chain case and chain. On the rear wheel I removed the cassette joint (item 39), the driver cap (item 38), Snap Ring C (item 36) that hold the sprocket in place. Then I wiped the outer surfaces of Right Hand Dust Cap C (item 13, small metal dust cap) and Right Hand Dust Cap B (item 12, large plastic dust cap) in situ. Then I removed Right Hand Dust Cap C (item 13, small metal dust cap) . Notice that I haven't removed Right Hand Dust Cap B (item 12, large plastic dust cap) because I want all the SFG to stay inside the hub.

Here is where I think I went wrong. I removed the Left Hand Serated Lock Nut (10.7 mm) (item 30) and Left Hand Cone w/Dust Cap & Seal Ring (item 31). Then I cleaned all the removed items and reassembled the hub. When I put the wheel back on the bike, I adjusted the left hand code and locknut (items 30, 31) so that there was no play.

I then took the bike on a ride. I noticed fairly quickly that in was sounding rough so I had a second go at adjusting the left hand cone at the road side. I might have backed it out a bit or ended up with it in the same position, I can't be sure. I then completed my 7 mile round trip journey . In hindsight I should have turned back but I was meeting my elderly father and he gets worried and upset if I don't turn up as expected.

When I got home I put the bike on the bike stand. By putting my jaw on the bike frame I could hear that the hub was quiet when I was turning the pedals but rough when the back wheel was freewheeling. Also the pedals turned when the back wheel was freewheeling. The rear sprocket wanted to turn at the same speed as the hub shell. If I held the pedals stationary the back wheel would still continue to freewheel but you could feel some drag and back wheel slowed down more quickly than expected.

At this point I decide to remove the hub internals. I messed up here again because I wanted to see if balls in the Ball Retainer H (3/16" x 26) (item 11) were still in place but I managed to drop the hub internals as I was lifting it out of the hub shell and placing it on the news paper. When I did this, 6 of the balls fell out. When I removed the ball retainer and turned it upside down over a container, still more balls fell out of the ball retainer leaving only 11 of the original 26 balls in place. I re-capured and saved all the balls of course.

I wish I had a working camera (special charging cable lost, flat battery, chocolate fireguard). I cleaned up the ball retainer. It is not bent of distorted. If I put it on a pane of glass it lies flat and doesn't rock or pivot on high spots. I don't have a working vernier (digital vernier, flat battery, chocolate fireguard) so I cant measure the balls. One or two balls look very slightly scuffed looking at them in good natural light and close up with a short sighted eyeball but they don't have any gouges or chunks taken out of them. If I had a working camera I might be able to get a better look and show everyone to boot.

The ball retainer has some marks on the outermost surface where I guess it might touch the hub shell. The marks have a polished appearance while the rest of the surface (plating ?) is more matt. This marking is on the left hand side of the ball retainer (when mounted on the hub internals), that is on the continuous edge, not the broken right edge with the fingers that trap the balls. This marking is continuous around the whole circumference of the ball retainer. However there is a second row of marks parallel with the first in the middle of the outer surface at the base of the fingers. These aren't continuous, they only cover about 1/6 of the circumference.

I said that the balls wouldn't stay in the ball retainer but I was able to fix that pinching the inner and outer fingers together where the balls were loose. This means I can now turn the ball retainer upside down without any of the balls falling out.

The other thing I did was clean up the hub shell. I did this by sticking a bung in the hole where the left hand of the axle emerges, filling the hub shell with white spirit, and brushing the inside with a toothbrush. I made sure to collect all the white spirit in a container when I removed the bung.Then I used a small powerful cylindrical magnet that I had previously recovered from a small electric motor to fish through the gunk. I recovered about 1 to 2 cubic millimeters of fine magnetic debris attached to the magnet. There certainly weren't any big lumps. It was very difficult to see if there was any non magnetic debris because of the solid lubricant from the SFG. I tried "panning" for this by letting the mixture settle, pouring off the liquid then adding clean white spirit. Either I poured the debris away, or there was no non-magnetic debris to be found.

The bearing race at the open end of the hub shell is undamaged, looking with an eyeball in good natural light.

I still haven't cleaned up the hub internals yet. I have been too chicken. The pawls seem to be in place. I count six, four on the left hand end of the internals and two in the centre.

The SFG seems to have the same appearance it had when I put it in the hub. There has been no water getting in. The hub internals turn smoothly by hand in the one gear position (gear 1 ?) that I can easily try.

If you have read this far, is there any advice you can give or suggestions to try next?