Cycling UK Forum

The National Cycle Museum don't do valuations, it's part of our policy.

As has been said above, it is a particularly difficult thing to do.
Rarity, condition, provenance. As has been suggested, a specialist auction house would be your best bet.
TC Auctions are long established and have a good reputation.
And you will probably find that the valuation is between x and y with quite a big gap.


Company Secretary of the National Cycle Museum.

Going 8 to 7 should be fine. 7 to 8 will inevitably be wider , and you might find the smallest cog catches on the frame.
If this is happening, you might have to space the axle a little to prevent it happening. If you take the freewheel off you will see there's a spacer on the freewheel side of the hub/axle.
There might be a spacer behind the freewheel too. You can lose this but it puts the freewheel closer to the spokes so you have to be happy that the rear Mech is adjusted properly and isn't going to mash the spokes.
This hadn't used to be a problem with solid Axles, however quick release Axles don't give you much leeway . If there is a spacer on the axle in the opposite side to the block you can take it out ( feasibly) and put it back on the other side.
Depends just how much room you have.
Also probably have to re dish the rear wheel for optimum performance if you do this .
And if the spacer makes the axle wider between the locknuts ( the 'OLD' : Over Lock Nut Distance) you might have to spring the frame slightly ( assuming a steel frame here) .
Not as simple as you might have thought ...

I had some Stainless rims. Excellent fir keeping clean in the winter but lethal when wet

My neighbour sells lots of fishing gear (he has a legit source) he has quit E Bay and now sells via Facebook because of the e Bay fees. Don't know the details just a recent discussion over the fence.

A few years ago I flew abroad with a diss assembled unicycle . Considering customs and the potential language barrier I took photos of the complete machine and the dis assembled bits (the saddle looked just like a machine gun stock to me) . No problem . A seat pin does look vaguely reminiscent of a gun.

I build my Trike wheels on the trike. I have zip tied a Vernier Gauge to a carbon tent pole which I zip tie across the Seat Stays . Once I have laced them I fit to the trike and use the Vernier to get them straight , and to get any 'up and down' out. Worth marking the hub in relation to the axle so if you do take it off it goes back in the same place . ( Trike Hubs, particularly Chrome ones, can distort a bit over time .. I am assuming they aren't new )
Have the rear of the trike slightly elevated.. I use an old school turbo trainer that supports the bottom bracket shell and you take the front wheel out and clamp it in .
I realise I am summarising some of the past advice here . Yes a trike back wheel is like a front in that the spokes are same length both sides .

I have in the past used a hub axle with one cone on the round end of the hub and a lock Nut against the hexagon end , in a wheelbuilding jig , letting the axle rotate in the Jig but didn't find that very satisfactory .

I am sure I have a recollection of a driving course for something that started with the participants on bikes some years ago . Busses perhaps?

Certainly seems the instructor in this case might need his cycling perspective re setting like that.

Those pictures of cycle lanes alongside other traffic stopping in same place needs addressing. Any Cycle Lane worth it's salt has advanced give way areas ahead (and indeed in front sometimes) of the other traffic when it halts. Is there some recent standard on these? The graphics absolutely demonstrate the issue (s) . Well done to the poster of those.

I suspect someone has tried to remove the inverted brake lever without tools .
Decent frame perhaps past redemption due to rust .
SL tubing is pretty thin.

Traffic Police in the UK used to have various measured miles to calibrate the speedo on a regular basis so as there was a record to convince magistrates the equipment was working properly. The traffic lads use to know where they were ,don't think the locations were in the Public Domain. Believe ther was one on the Newton Road in West Bromwich, the stretch leaving West Brom and passing over the motorway.

Raleigh Gran Sport secondhand repainted by my father .
And then a brand sparking new Claud Butler Competitor , 531 in Bianchi Blue, Small Flange Campagnolo hubs, Fiamme Alloy 27" Rims, Williams Steel Chainset, Campagnolo (Valentino? ) Rear Mech , 5 speed. Brooks leather saddle.

Even if exterior is (was) Alloy, almost certainly a steel insert so a magnet might just do the trick.

I generally use Stainless Steel rather than mild steel. Less prone to rusting in .
If you can't get a Torx drive to fit (as per prior post) you could carefully hacksaw a slot for a screwdriver or file flats (tricky, you need a file with a plain side to go up against the calliper) for a spanner .

I would agree with previous statement. The cable is anchored at the second (lower) orange arrow in the photo, the fixing is the bolt at the end of the red arrow. The cable should just be visible ,it is hidden by the angle of the photo below the nut. I would suggest the 2 elements need to be roughly parralell ( i.e. The arm at the first orange arrow and the second) . If you aren't confident to undo the cable there is an adjuster just above the brake mechanism and another on the lever the 2 vaguely knurled bits in the cable run. If you do go for a cable adjust you only have to loosen the bolt and pull cable through, no need to remove it completely.
(Green arrow and something very similar looking next to the brake lever are the adjusters)
Should be adjustable with your fingers . Turn left to effectively lengthen the cable run. Don't forget to do the lock ring/nut after adjustment.
The cable should move straight away when you move the lever ideally ( a small amount of slack might suit the rider , personal choice. ( Don't forget the brakes have to move before they touch the rims / discs )

Should be a simple matter, you don't specify which brakes you have.
Most brakes these days have an adjuster , either next to the brake lever or somewhere on the brake itself. Simply screw this out and adjust the lock ring screw.
Or undo the inner cable at the brake and pull it through the anchor bolt to suit. ( I would do the second, the fist is more for small adjustments 'in the field' so to speak. )

I am thinking both Campag ? one Earlier in vintage than the other.
Although the rougher finished one does put me in mind of Lambert ?