Cycling UK Forum

Yes

You calculate the size of a gear by dividing the front sprocket tooth count by the rear sprocket tooth count then multiply the wheel size by the result .

Example with simple maths

50 chainring 10 rear sprocket gives you 5, 20" wheel multiplied by 5 gives 100 inch gear.
Same with a 27" wheel gives you 135 inch gear .

Hadn't considered discs. Can you use a rim brake as suggested?
There's a few Disc forks on E Bay which might be more cost effective ?
Hub braked wheel ? (although I think you would need somewhere to anchor the reaction arm to)

Is it a steel or Alloy fork and a V/ Cantilever brake ( think this is what you are intimating) ?
If it is , first double check the Pivot isn't screwed in to the fork ( some are but usually on Alloy frame, you can tell as there's a short shoulder to fit a spanner on at the base if the Pivot) . If that's the case simply unscrew and source a replacement.
Failing that ,on a steel frame a framebuilder should be able to replace the Pivot but it will be a braze on bit that will impact on the paint.
Or if you want a cheap and cheerful , hacksaw both of the pivots off and replace with a bolt on brake of suitable depth . (In fact I think you can get a yoke that fits the fork like a 'conventional' brake but will take Cantilever/V brakes. If you go down that route again you will have to saw the pivots off or mount it on the opposite side of the fork ( have a scan of a Trike website to see brakes behind the fork)
Or try a want add here for suitable replacement fork. Or E Bay. Local Bike Recycling Centre?

If you want simplicity how about fixed ?
My 'stable' runs Fixed, single free, 4/5/6/8 by 1/2 and 3 . Campag ergo, STI, friction.
And an Osgear. And Sturmey 3 and 4 .
On bikes and Trikes.
Will that gear lever mount help.?
If you aren't conversant, Suntour stuff is really nicely made.
When I was in a racing club in the 70's the more tech savvy riders preferred Suntour Superbe to Campag.
Have to confess my only Moulton Experience was a secondhand Mk3 that lasted about a month before I passed it to a Moulton Fan.

I used to have a Time Trial bike with Suntour Double Levers that fitted on a conventional braze on boss BUT it was a single boss on top of the downtube rather than one either side. There's one just gone on E Bay with Golden Age Cycles . Is it a double lever to fit on that eye you seek, this might be easily converted.
Cunning it of kit, there is an internal cam that automatically 'tweaks' the front Mech slightly as you change the rear Mech . (Pre Index Gearing of course)

Are you on 700c or 27"? Cantilever brakes ?
I have some old school forks for 27" wheels, THINK 531 , 'bolt on ' brakes (i.e. Not Cantilever) smart fork crown not dissimilar to crown on wife's lady Galaxy. Painted silver there might be the odd blemish as they have been in my Jumble box. Long column, they were in a 23" frame . I am just above Kidderminster so in striking distance of Malvern. PM me if interested .

You have caught the end of the Chainstay,in front of where it is brazed into the lug so shouldn't affect structure at all. Like has been said, make sure the cups screw back in ( perhaps before you put the axle in IF you have a 'loose' axle rather than a cassette Bracket) . We were discussing water gathering in the bottom bracket (particularly with a cassette) recently. My mate reckons a small hole drilled in the bottom of the bracket helps let it out . Water gets in in lots of ways including condensation inside the tubes . I was shocked recently taking a bracket out of a frame that looked generally good outside, lots of rust and gunge around the cassette interior .

There is an inherent danger of introducing new links into a used chain if it has bedded in . The new links won't sit nicely on used sprockets. Depends on how many miles the chain has done .

Where in the country are you?
I am West Midlands based ,happy for you to have a shot on one of my upright Trikes if it helps (23" plus frames) if that might work for you shoot me a pm.
DJ Notts does have a point, you do have to be aware of balance a lot more so than on abike which could be a bit counter intuitive. The picture of the racing gives you a clue ,you do sometimes have to 'hang out' to corner moderately quickly to keep it on the road ( Google Triangle of forces, you do it without thinking on a bike but you do have to think about it on a Trike .
I have had upright Trikes for a few years, I did have and ICE recumbent but couldn't take to it, I felt very vulnerable being so low down .Perhaps I should have persevered with it? I know lots of folk have great mileage from recumbents .
The Tricycle Association used to attend CTC York Rally and there was always a trike that interested parties could have a go on . Not sure if that still happens ?

Are you re inflating your tubes inside a tyre? Might be a Granny suck egg moment here, is the thing that caused the puncture still embedded in the tyre carcass? That would explain a second hole in a repaired tube.
And if you aren't inflating inside a tyre, is the tube getting bigger than it was inside the carcass and stretching a small nick into a hole ( unlikely but not impossible)
I used to be the club puncture champion. 5 in a day ( old tyres) . And most bizzare : carrying trike upside down over a footbridge , caught a wheel in a hawthorn tree . To the general amusement of the rest of the group.
At the time of the 5 hander, I invested in 'punture proof tubes ' (Specialised I think) lot thicker on the tread side of the tube but the valves pulled out.

Yes ok, showing my age by reference to RTTC .
That's what it was last time I rode a Time Trial.
How dare you suggest I am old , Graham .

Plus one for a Medical Assesment.
I have had ( and been treated for) Carpal Tunnel Syndrome .
In simple terms, the tendons that control the fingers 'snagging' in the wrist area (a bit like a duff brake / gear cable catching the inner)
Bought on by repetitive strain apparently : Bike riding, Computer Keyboards, Pneumatic Road Drills and so on .

Not sure where in the Country, it's a side issue to a complaint about recent RTTC regulations about lights / Crash helmets etc .

Any ideas where one might find a Crash Helmet to fit a 70cm head?
Enquiring on behalf of a member of another forum.

Some early cantilevers have an adjustable element in the straddle wire .
Suggest you get a barrel end cable, with a pinch boltbthe other end ( as in how you would anchor the cable on a Sidepull brake) in the short term which will Allow adjustment 'on the road' with a spanner and pliers until you resolve the cable hanger replacement.

Or how about the ones in the SJS site about 3 rows down that come up from the brake 'hole' ( assuming the frame has one ? ) provided that doesn't interfere with the mechanical advantage of the straddle arrangement.

Do you not have some cable adjustment at the lever?