Cycling UK Forum

I too have been a trike rider for 50 plus years learning as a teenager (apart from having one when I was a nipper) Trikes have a tendency to run down the camber of the road and into the gutter/kerb/nearby ditch ( yes , been there done that ,on an extremely icy road in my defence ) . if you don't compensate for the tendency, I believe that's what catches a lot of bike riders out,they aren't expecting it . I know pretty much exactly where someone is likely to hit the kerb if they try one of my machines at my house. A trike feels 'odd' to a bike rider, it sits on the road which usually has a camber so the feel is it's falling over whereas a bike just sits pretty much vertically . Plus the tendency to go in 2 wheels already mentioned if you try and corner too quickly or don't 'lean off' to offset the tendency ( Google Trikes Racing if you can't visualise this). It's to do with the triangle of forces for the more technically minded. On a bike you simply lean in the bends to offset the forces , without thinking about it .
The additional weight of the child seats over the back axle may have helped.
No experience on smaller wheels but the main limiting factor is clearance for the cranks /pedals not hitting the floor ( one of my Trikes sits a full 2 inches closer to the floor, by virtue of design ,if it was a bike there would be severe chance of pedal strike on the floor when cornering ( it is a 'lugless' frame with an eccentric bracket) compared to a similar machine with Lugs .So the main thing with small wheels would be lower gearing. The 'footprint' would be the same.

Indeed gaz, I think there ought to be enough support between the required 5mm holes, to use 30mm wide alu strips. I'm not going to be giving mates a lift home from the pub sitting on the rack or anything! It's mainly for those large but lightweight Amazon boxes of tut one buys and then need to cycle to the village PO to return - the ones where if they were strapped to the top of the rear rack would be difficult to swing one's leg over
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Have you tried mounting over the bars? I do ( but then I am a regular tricyclist)

Double eyletts on front fork are intended for a front rack.
Raleigh Randonneur hit the For Sale Section just after I initially read this.
Never had an issue with Weinman Centrepulls , had a couple of sets in bikes over the years.
As has already been commented on, brake issues more to do with having decent Brake Blocks ( I recall seeking out Genuine Pink Weinman Blocks as opposed to generic copies ) and nice slippy cable runs.
Plus having the cable 'uplift' in the right place (known as the MA factor, but not relevant to Weinman Centre-pulls )
I understand pink salmon blocks are well regarded on this site ( not tried them myself yet but I do have some to hand for the future)
(I currently use V brake blocks on standard brakes ,allows you to toe in the block which assists in good contact at the rim)
If you want really naff brakes try the Weinman Sidepull Brakes that have numbers ending in zero.
But the 405/605/Carrera series are as good as Campagnolo in my opinion . Have them on bikes and Trikes.
Wife's Galaxy has Cantilevers. I know the spec on Galaxies changed over the years , can't really comment on spec it came to me as a frame.
We had a few in my old CTC group.

I am a CUK Cycle Instructor.
Stabilisers are the work of Satan (as I think the previous poster meant to say)
I know it's not the issue here but the route to starting a youngster off is a balance bike.
Stabilisers catch and push a bike off course.
Someone else has posted about the difficulty in riding a trike, I am a trike fan but often bike riders think a trike is a piece of cake to ride. They aren't. They will inevitably try and run you into the gutter and up the kerb.
And you need to consider cornering carefully ( particularly if you want to do it quickly)

My only experience was Weinman Levers with Shimano 105 Dual Pivot Calipers.
The "original' Dual Pivot Calipers ( Altenburger then GB ( who I think bought the design off Altenburger) had a small pip on the back of the one arm that sat under the opposite arm and pulled it up. With a nylon sleeve over the pip. Away from the workshop currently so can't examine a modern Dual Pivot.

Dual Pivot Brakes WON'T work with 'old school' Levers ( Weinman in my case) believe me I spent 3 days trying to get them to work together before taking advice.
There is a spring in a Dual Pivot Lever that helps the release. Weinman and similar Levers rely on the spring at the brake only. So the 'pull characteristics' of each lever is only part of the equation.

You could go the Hub brake route ( which would of course entail a new wheel ....)

Brake issues are often down to worn Cables.
And if you reduce the calliper to it's component parts, clean, inspect for excessive wear , bin if wear too much , if not lubricate and re assemble.
New blocks ,clean rims.
Not sure what calipers you currently have, I run a couple of older machines, including Trikes where braking can be problematic . 'Standard' Weinman Calipers (500, 730 etc ending in 0) are pretty ineffective, made from plasticine I always thought. Much better are the slightly upmarket ones which retain the vertical cable entry , look out for Weinman 605 ( or 405 if you are on close clearances) or Carrera ( not sure if the 'drop' on those) much better more substantial bit if kit and often available on e Bay or at cyclejumbles.

You might be able to get the right size tube with a 'cranked' valve already on it.
I sourced some 12" ones for some bikes at my wife's school.

Carlton

You need Levers with an integral return spring. As I Sussed out after 3 frustrating days trying to get some to work with old school Weinman Levers .

Bluespeeder

Don't appear to have my modified rack any more but I do have the/an L bracket .
Drop me a pm with your address if you want it .

Andrew S is describing same bracket as me, however, a ' centrepull' action 'sidepull' brake wouldn't work unless the bracket went under it not over it. A standard Sidepull will take the bracket over the top , because it pivots at the centre whereas a dual pivot has to be able to rise a little in the centre.
Have seen the extended Allen key Nut mentioned on one of the sites I checked.

Assuming you actually have 2 rack supports going to p clips, one on each seat stay?
(Not clear from photos)

If this is right , I resolved a similar rack problem (on a road bike) by removing the p clips and the stay brackets, put a bridge across where the stay brackets originate from on the rack, then used a central L bracket off the bridge and under the brake. Think they were 105 Dual Pivot brakes.
(Had the L bracket in stock but you may well be able to get one from St John St Bikes if you can't fabricate one. )

Just been on St John St and Spa website, neither seems to have what I describe.
I managed to write the bike with the set up off , I MIGHT still have the rack ,give me a couple of days and watch this space .

Alternative thought here.
Assuming your electric inflators has only a Schrader 'cap', use a Presta adapter in the cap, then screw in an old school flexible adapter and fix that on the valve . You can get them in presta/woods or Schrader capacity.

My assessment of what I have seen here .
As ever should one be privellidged enough to have access to accurate account it may change your opinion.

Headset : A set including 2 lots of Bearings, 4 bearing surfaces ("races") locknut and often a spacer.
Wheelset : A collection (set) of parts including Hubs, Spokes, Rims.
Chainset : A collection of cranks,rings, bolts, usually axle/ balls/bolts/cups ( or a cassette bottom bracket)
Frameset : A bit 'old school' , a collection (set) of tubes, assembled (usually) by brazing into a collection (set) of Lugs and adding front and rear fork ends . (I do know about 'bronze welding' ( No Lugs)
(I also realise the majority of frames these days are Alloy )
Etc etc
Utilising the word 'set' implies it will all work together.
Like Simonineaston has already commented on .