Cycling UK Forum

Cyclothesist

geocycle wrote: ↑3 Apr 2024, 6:25pm The white powder on the picture looks like dried tubeless sealant? Might not be corrosion but the overinflated tyre opened another weakness. Cargo bikes can be heavy which might have caused the initial crack?

80psi doesn't even touch overinflation.

Cyclothesist

rareposter wrote: ↑3 Apr 2024, 4:29pm
Cyclothesist wrote: ↑3 Apr 2024, 2:15pm Another thought - are you sure it was salt water ingress that caused it and not your sealant? If you're running tubeless then some sealants are alkaline and can corrode unprotected aluminium. Some rim manufacturers specify what sort of dealant to use.
Sealant is nowhere near harsh enough to corrode aluminium plus it shouldn't (under normal conditions) be on the rim anyway, it's contained within the airtight rim tape and the tyre. Modern tubeless wheels are made near enough airtight on that side anyway, there's no possibility of sealant leaking through into the rim bed and spoke nipples.

Much more likely to be salt water, road grime etc penetrating the wheel rim from around the wheel nipples.

If the wheel has a hub or disc brake, you can spray the rim with some sort of protectant like silicone wax or GT85.
Do NOT do that on rim brake wheels!

Looking at the photo posted by the OP the rim tape is ruptured over one spokehead and torn longitudinally either side of the valve hole. No way does it look gas tight let alone water tight. If the cause is salt water permeation down the spoke holes I'd expect corrosion at the spoke nipple holes with cracking around them and spokes pulling through.

Cyclothesist

Another thought - are you sure it was salt water ingress that caused it and not your sealant? If you're running tubeless then some sealants are alkaline and can corrode unprotected aluminium. Some rim manufacturers specify what sort of dealant to use.

Cyclothesist

Is that some sort of eastern martial art throwing star?

Cyclothesist

I agree with the others, it does depend on the bike. Gravel bike is pretty much level, summer road bike bars are about 1cm lower than the saddle.
I marvel at folk with a huge saddle to bar drop. I wonder at their flexibility, and how they see where they're going without terminal neck pain.

Cyclothesist

I take it the rim has corroded from the tyre/inner tube side from salt water ingress rather than from the outside of the rim? If so why not paint the inside of the rim with a couple of coats of waterproof varnish?

Cyclothesist

Thanks Brucey. It's one of those posts where a few diagrams would help a lot. I've come to the conclusion that 40yrs in the past Brucey was right - it's not worth the effort v the cost of buying a new cassette/sprocket. That's especially so if like me (and I suspect most of the forum members) you don't have an outbuilding equipped with machine tools.
I did however really enjoy reading about how it could be done. Fascinating and ingenious!

Cyclothesist

Audax67 wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 2:41pm
Cyclothesist wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 12:41pm Neither of those are the good old plain folding bead Durano. The Durano DD is heavy and a bit wooden riding.
These links take you to the right "One"...
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-One-11654345
>imprecation<

Uncheap, too.

At full retail - true. Currently on sale at Merlin for £22.49 (for 25-622)

Cyclothesist

Thanks for the info. 400W at 15A equates to 26.6V across a standard dc motor. If the circuitry is using PWM to regulate the power to the motor (which is standard ebike power control) the instantaneous current may be higher than that 15A depending on how they measured it. Most ebike battery packs sit within 36 to 48V supply.

Cyclothesist

Jdsk wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 11:24am
Cyclothesist wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 10:48am
Audax67 wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 9:29am If you don't want punctures try Schwalbe Duranos. Not the fastest tyre on the road but comfy and practically bomb-proof.
Ageed ..except Schwalbe have stopped making Duranos. My new go to tyre is the Durano replacement Schwalbe One folding bead. It's pretty much identical to the old Durano. A size 700x25c weighs about 250g.
There's a Durano Plus and a Durano DD on the website:
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/search?search=durano

Which is the One?

Thanks

Jonathan

Neither of those are the good old plain folding bead Durano. The Durano DD is heavy and a bit wooden riding.
These links take you to the right "One"...
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-One-11654345
Also Spa Cycles
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s121p3 ... 2A-Folding

Cyclothesist

Brucey wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 9:53am anywhere on the hub body will probably do. Injection of solvent will allow in-situ cleaning, Later injection of SBG (solvent-borne grease) via the same port will provide relubrication for all the bearings. I have designed all that is required to make this swift, easy and economic to do

Something like a drilled hole in the freehub under the splines of the cassette? I can see that working with a fluid-tight plug over the lubrication port.

Cyclothesist

Audax67 wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 9:29am If you don't want punctures try Schwalbe Duranos. Not the fastest tyre on the road but comfy and practically bomb-proof.

Ageed ..except Schwalbe have stopped making Duranos. My new go to tyre is the Durano replacement Schwalbe One folding bead. It's pretty much identical to the old Durano. A size 700x25c weighs about 250g.

Cyclothesist

Brucey wrote: ↑31 Mar 2024, 6:03pm note that you only need to disassemble a freehub if you need to change something like the pawls, pawl springs, balls etc.; re-shimming merely requires that the dust seal is removed and one part is unscrewed, so it doesn't take too long, and nor does it require a particularly clean and tidy workshop, either. Cleaning and relubrication does not usually require any disassembly, since the unit can be flushed with solvent and relubricated in a number of different ways.

I was thinking the freehub could do with a nice lubrication port. Trouble is where to put one??

Cyclothesist

On noseless saddles I've never tried one. I have read that they can adversely effect balance and steering as a lot of both come from the inner thighs through the saddle (think riding no-hands). I have recently switched to central cut out short nose saddles on my road and gravel bikes. They are definitely good for comfort but I don't see them being much different on jean wear. They may even be worse as there's less scope for moving and changing seated position.

Cyclothesist

I think you've just volunteered yourself for a project there Brucey.

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