Cycling UK Forum

I took my 30 year old steel rigid MTB to India this last winter instead of a more expensive, modern touring bike. One obvious reason why I took it was that I was departing from a different airport to where I flew into, so I planned to donate the bike to someone in India rather than bring it back, but also with 3 x 7 gearing, rubber brake blocks and cable controls spares would have been available if needed.
The bike gave no problems but the limiting factor was the O/E saddle which got a bit uncomfortable after 50 miles! And the MTB steering geometry which became twitchy with a handlebar bag. Otherwise the bike was fine. Value £50 - £100?

Is N Spain wet at this time of year? If it is, at least the rain will be warm! Personally I use plastic toe clips so I can cycle in flat bottomed shoes that I can walk in, and I take Merrell ‘adventure’ open sandals that I could pedal in (but normally don’t) - but I can walk in them, even up hills, and they are good in the morning dew. Just be careful not to get the top of your feet sunburnt through the holes.

Refit the tyres, take some photos and send it back, it will never be right.
A couple of years ago I had a Genesis col de Fer frameset and one lug holding the front wheel was welded skew. I tried to live with it for 500 miles but it was wrong and in the end it went back.

My first bike with a Rohloff. When new 14 months ago, free wheeling down a hill I thought there was a tractor following me! It was that noisy when freewheeling. But the noise quickly settled and went, and now at 3600 miles it grates a little when pedalling in gear 7 but that is all. Chain noise in almost non-existant (with Chainglider) so overall it is quieter in all gears (except 7) than my derailleur bike.
It also feels smoother as with a Chainglider I have a clean, well lubed chain.
Gear spacing is good and changes are quiet and slick (providing the cables are not too tight).

I have a steel framed bike. I wonder if there would be more noise with an aluminium frame?

Hi Cyckelgalen,
Agree with what you say about increasing disc size - makes me wonder why 160mm discs are the norm and not 180mm?

Is it possible to use PTFE tape on a 3mm screw? PTFE tape is really designed for larger diameter threads.

Yes, good that thoughts agree on this.

Hylomar Universal Blue non setting jointing compound. Rated to 250C (PTFE tape rated to 260C).
Last time I bought any it came from Halfords.
In the past I have used it on metal - metal joints, eg motorbike rocker covers.
But please make your own decision about using it.

TRP who make the Spyke callipers say the minimum gap is 1.0 - 1.5mm. I had not told them what the gap was on my bike.

The Hylomar is still holding the adjusting screws steady. I tweaked one screw a hundred miles ago and it felt nicely stiff and has not come loose. I guess at brake pad replacement time I will just clean the screws and apply another match head of Hylomar.

A rear wheel lock up worries me much less than something in the front wheel, but I think you and JohnR are right and 1.5mm is enough.

A friend face planted a couple of weeks ago, not cycling, but the damage to his face has made me think how I can avoid a similar accident when cycling. Assessing possible dangers by TEM (Threat and Error Management) may seem a bit wacky but the basics are that once you see something that might be dangerous you then assess if it actually is a threat, and if so work out how to best deal with it.

Good point JohnR - the gap SHOULD not change…….except on the day when the stars align, the front bearings are a little loose and the forks and wheel flex as I hit a bump!

Hylomar is rated up to 250C, I do not know how hot brakes get? If rated to 250C it will be OK to a bit higher.

I do know I could not successfully wrap the 3mm adjusting screws in PTFE tape - dental floss maybe?

Same adjusting screws and same problem on Spyres and Spykes - I think their only difference is the cable pull required.

But how small can the spoke / calliper gap be???

I also have a Spyke front calliper that is close to the spokes - but how close is too close?
The bike is a steel framed tourer with 26 inch wheels, a shimano HB-M525A hub, stainless spokes about 1.9mm diameter, all pretty standard stuff.
The spoke / calliper gap is 1.5mm.
Absolutely no problems over 3000 miles, but is this gap big enough?

One fix I am trying with the Spykes is to use blue hylomar jointing compound on the 3mm adjusting screws that kept backing off. Hylomar stays gooey so I hope it will still keep the screws in position after any adjustments. All OK so far after the initial adjustments and 400 miles. From new the screws had locktite but once they were adjusted this loosened off so was useless.

That mudguard looks like it might have had a solid type of ‘mudflap’ which extended backwards from the mudguard. If so, I can imagine that would make a nice trap for the wood.

With the very low mudguard mounting position the stays would pull the guard tight against the tyre as they rotated forwards - as said above by cycle tramp, it might be better to have higher mudguard mounts so the guard moves away from the tyre.

Is an even longer length of cage needed for the more extreme MTB cassette ranges now available?

Or can you cut a slot in the adjusters in your brake levers so the cable can be pulled out?
Best done with the parts off the bike!