Cycling UK Forum

JohnW wrote:

gbnz wrote:

meic wrote:Can't say I've ever suffered from rust

Neither have I - yet - but I have a bike that does.

Apologies, my imprecise use of the english language used to be infamous - In an earlier career, I once issued a legal prohibition notice to a tractor as a "legal entity", rather than the farmer operating it!

meic wrote:I have been fighting (and losing the battle) against rust for years now......rust through the bike very quickly. The bad news is that nothing seems to work!.

Could always buy an alloy or carbon fibre bike. Can't say I've ever suffered from rust

[quote="phattanglo"]Greetings to one and all,
Which style of bike is the strongest?
At 20 stone I propose to start with something fairly budget as I will destroy it quote]

I wouldn't have thought the style of bike would be relevant, other than NOT choosing a super light alloy or carbon bike to start with. I've carried 18 stone (Myself & luggage) over 6000km on an alloy and carbon bike, can't say the bike frame itself suffered at all

What did suffer were the wheels; I've used 24,27, 32, 36 spoke wheels and it's notable that 12 stone @ 5000km on a 24 spoke wheel caused it to buckle significantly, 12 stone @ 30000km on a 32 spoke wheel caused it to buckle significantly,the 27 and 36 spoke wheels haven't had significant mileages yet

If you've sufficient knowledge, suppose you could buy the bike you want and budget to replace the wheels at a later date (Afterall a handmade set of wheels on good quality hubs is only £150-175). That said, if you want to buy a superlight alloy/carbon bike, it might be an idea to use "up" a second hand bike first

saudidave wrote:Hi

I've just returned to cycling after a 10 yr .......I'm also questioning dropped bars. I either ride on the bar tops or the brake hoods

I returned to cycling after 12 years off a bike with drop bars and rationally worked out that I'd be better with a full road bike, albeit with flat bars. Like you I'd only ever ridden on the bar tops or brake hoods. Flat bars are great around town, on the road doing distance I found the set up too limiting, especially heading into head winds! Fitted bar ends, it was better, but ended up within 13 weeks fitting with drop bars & road sti's (Though kept the flat bar /sti's/brakes for a town bike)

I'd second dual pivot caliper brakes, they're inexpensive, simple to fit and adjust and remain in adjustment. I'd had shimano single pivot brakes on the older brakes which were dire - the dual pivots are excellant and beyond comparison. I used to be under the impression they couldn't "cope" with heavier loads, but 50-55000km with up to 126kg gtw has proved otherwise. It's mentioned elsewhere, however Spa Cycles do Alhonga deep drop dual pivot caliper brakes @ £21 per pair & £3 p/p. I bought/fitted a pair last week, pleasantly surprised by their quality. I've also found Specializeds additional bar top levers are worth having, they're multipurpose and as far as I know compatible with any caliper brake/lever(Though some do not like the levers, they aren't full size - I've descended passes with a fullload in both the Northern and Southern Alps using them without issues ). Edinburgh bike co-op do them, somewhere around the £15 mark (Mine were off another bike)

AirTime wrote:thanks, i want a bit of an adventure but a bit apprehensive about setting off on my own for my first maiden voyage! i'm sure i'll be fine but niggling things such as worrying about running out of inner tubes or my pump failing

I'd second rualexanders advice, though if you've the cash and can leave asap, australasia is in the height of summer (New Zealand is a particularly easy country to try for a first trip, especially from a British perspective)

Have to say I was apprehensive about my first trip, in reality my fears were unfounded (I worried about finding anywhere to camp, to wash,to obtain water FOC, the fact I speak no language other than english)

Oh yes, forks and handlebars snapping, wheel rims disintergrating and having read a few weeks after the event about Si's crank snapping, cranks snapping. So I do strip the bike down on a regular basis, dismantle wheels, stems and handlebars and check for signs of fatigue and cracks and replace when necessary (Which in the past quarter has included 2 sets of forks, 1 tyre, 1 wheel and a new set of brake blocks!)

Having said that, it's actually quite unusual for accidents to occur due to a failure of a machine or technology . It's invariably human factors which causes the majority of accidents, which in cycling terms, relates to the majority of cyclists being injured or killed as a result of contact with motor vehicles being driven without due care

15lb's! Once I'd converted that into metric (6.80kg) it seems extremely light. Must be a road bike?

My road bikes at 9.97kg (21.97 lb's), though it is "heavy" at the moment (25mm, heavy duty tyres, tool bracket etc, etc). The tourer's at 11.78kg (25.97 lb's). Reduced weight via narrower rims and tyres, added 130g's via a new fork and brake units.

No, it wasn't sarcasm.

That said, it would be a pity if all the weird and wacky respondents to ctc forum discussion topics, went "to the library and (got) some books". It'd introduce reality into the various topics, rather than regurgitating cycling folk lore

mick skinner wrote:i just read all the replies to the question and some of them are complete twoddle; go to the library and get some books on sports nutrition and energy metabolism.

Well, have to say that's perhaps one of the best informed posts I've read on the ctc forum. Proves beyond a doubt that the author actually reads a post, prior to replying

I'd like to reply, in order to get my own "500th post" in. Such a competative world at the ctc

kwackers wrote:

gbnz wrote:There's no reason why energy gels shouldn't work,though they are expensive for what they do. Personally I'd never use them

Yeah, but if you're out for 3 hours running a marathon (or bike equiv), why do you think enough energy for 4/5 minutes will have any effect?

I think it's all in the name "energy gels", they provide energy don't they? So they must work! Oh look I feel better already...
All imho of course.

Actually, I agree with your second paragraph, as outlined above "I think...better already". That said, I don't believe nor have I stated that energy (via A energy gel/bar) for 4/5 minutes will have any effect, whilst out for 3 hours. You may note,I didn't quantify the number of energy gels/bars required to have an effect.

There's no reason why energy gels shouldn't work,though they are expensive for what they do. Personally I'd never use them, as high GI carbohydrates can be obtained from cheaper, sources I.e. dried dates (Or cake - my knowledge of bakeries within a 60 mile radius is legion)

However I'd go back to first principles and work out what you'd be trying to achieve if you took them, which is effectively reloading depleted energy stores. That said the subjects too complex for a post, I'd recommend Anita Beans simplistic book "The complete guide to sports nutrition" or Jeukendrup.A "High Performance Cycling"

If it's cold enough, I take the cheap option. Two thin pairs of socks, with a heavy duty plastic sandwich bag inbetween!

rjc, thanks, allen nuts can be used on the older nut type fittings, as the threads are the same (At least on the one I've tried)

Just saw your post on Shimano pads in the wet. My spares do say "wears in rainy conditions". Understatement, my front pads lasted 1176.54 miles this autumn, coud almost see them wearing out. I'm using the cheap alhonga pads until summer arrives!

Thanks, I was wondering about the option of an extra deep recessed nut. Removed one from the town bike, threads match, drilling and enlarging a 6mm hole to 7-8mm straightforward (Loads of material left so an enlarged hole not an issue)

In fact the 40 minutes I spent looking on the internet for a large pivot bolt, took 4 times longer than the job itself!