Cycling UK Forum

PT1029 wrote:Out of interest, what do you want the damper for?
Do you get shimmy/wheel wobble while cycling, or is it just to help the front wheel behave itself while parking/loading panniers etc..

Cheers.

Main reason is to prevent the front rack platform from smacking into the down tube but I'll gladly take both of the above attributes of a damper. I'm expecting a lot of off road with big loads.

I'm looking for a suitable steering damper to fit a conventional frame and fork arrangement.
Did a search on here but only found a few snippets and no photos of any actually fitted to a bike.

Any recommendations? Care to share a photo or two?

Cheers
TC

mech and shifter both 8000 XT.

Could be hanger alignment for sure as it is on an extender.....I have a Park alignment checking tool so I'll have a look.

thelawnet wrote:I think you have that the wrong way round.

Poor shifting could be down to various things but there's not much point in speculating without knowing the full bike spec.

Ha, I just knew this was the place to ask ! Happy to be educated

The bike is a fat bike, 120mm BB and 190mm axle. [Can't understand the fat bike demise: I've sold off most of my bikes to go fat with various wheel sets. This bike rides off road better than any bike I've had, and off road bike I've had in their dozens over the years. It is very stable on road for touring too, with appropriate wheels/tyres]

I'll stick with the non boost for my next chainring.

hamster wrote:Are you sure that the shifting problem is down to chainline and not old cables / outers? Have they been lubricated recently?

I never have old cables or poorly lubed ones. Honest ! Bit OCD with my bikes .....

Hi folks,
1x system.
my current non boost chainring gives me a centred chain line on the 11sp cassette. Which seems good

The cassette is 11-46 and changing is indifferent on the biggest three cogs. Work okish, could be better.

If I fit a boost chain ring the chain moves inboard 3m, which will favour the bigger cogs. Where I spend most of my time anyway. But it will be less good on 11-14 rings.

Overall, will changing to boost help or hinder. The chainrings are at least £45 so I want to get it right.

cheers
TB

I'm hoping to fit a Bafang mid motor on a steel frame. I note from looking at web diagrams etc that the unit does not seem to make use of the BB threads, which begs the question: do the threads get damaged?

The main reason I'm converting a 'proper' bike rather than buying a dedicated e Bike is that I want to be able to convert back, or at least have the option, at a later date.

cheers
TB

It's an on road , off road thing.

Panniers low down are a disaster on single track, and if my touring isn't 50% single track I boobed on the planning !

Back in my youth I did tour on road and low was good.

Modern mountain bike geometry is significantly different too, and makes a huge difference to handling characteristic s....

LBS: we are busy, so ready in two weeks. (Replace two spokes, true wheel)

Eight weeks later and I'm still having to wheely everywhere: good job it wasn't my rear wheel.......

I use that tool regularly, as in every time I want to deflate a tube. I screw the valve part way out: fastest way to dump air.
When rolling up a tube to go in a bike carry repair kit I remove the valve first so that the tube rolls up neatly, then I pop it back in.

Also essential for setting up tubeless for my numerous fat bike wheelset.

I have three of these very useful tools scattered around the workshop in strategic positions so one is always to hand!

Jdsk wrote:

tenbikes wrote:I drill all my rims to take Presta, even the narrow ones.

Schrader?

Jonathan

Yes , thank you! Hard day at the office despite only being 2pm......or old age;)

Schrader valve s all the way for me.

After 45 yrs of cycling, only Presta valves have failed on me ( the fleet at work are all Presta)

I drill all my rims to take Schrader, even the narrow ones. Does it weaken them? I suppose it must, but I build my own wheels and have never had a rim failure even racing off road, including tandems.

I just wish more Schrader valves were threaded with locking nut like Presta; that's the only aspect of Presta that's worth a fig.

I've never understood the Schrader hate, or why presta users throw away the valve caps. Funny folk all round...

I don't know if it will affect handling, but altering the head tube angle does big time, so I'd expect at least some change with a seat tube, though not as much.

My tandem also has an eccentric. Obviously its position is dictated by the needs of chain tension which over rides all else.

On this bike i have a choice of angle. Obviously I can just ride it and see, but the bikes is in bits just now and I'm curious.......

I have an eccentric bottom bracket which is redundant because I am now running a rear mech, not hub gear.

So, I can set the bb anywhere within its range of rotation, and this will presumably alter the effective st angle.

What handling effects can I expect comparing the extreme forward / backwards position s??

Cheers
T

Found it.

Valve. I haven't stripped it down yet but it seems to be revolving in the rubber bed thingy which probably has a proper name....

Will have to wait a week now as I'm off playing