Cycling UK Forum

Hope still do them.

gxaustin wrote:I found a seatpost clamp which both clamped the frame and the seat pin. OK it had two bolts but did the trick.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTHOR-bicyc ... Sw9oFckfuI

Like this but I found one in UK without the hefty carriage charge

Where in the UK please?

I'll try the above.

But why isn't it sealing? That's the whole point of the sealant!?

Hi folks, any ideas why this might be:

Just done a Tubeless job on my touring bike. Same everything front and back.
Front perfect.
Rear slowly drops pressure over a few days and needs pumping up before a ride. It's fine on the ride of about an hour and seems fine at the end. Then a couple of days later.....out comes the pump again.

I mean, the fluid is supposed to seal any leaks, and it must be a small leak to last so long.

There is nothing obvious to see.

I'm stumped!

MikeDee wrote:It's hard to tell from the photo, but that may be what is currently called a hookless rim (the old terminology was straight sided rim). They can't hold high pressures and are really only useful or safe when used with low pressure, wide tubeless tires like what comes on mountain bikes.

Hookless describes it perfectly. And it is a 90mm wide fat bike rim : pressures will be <10psi. But it still looks 'optimistic' to me!

...in fact, how does a tyre stay on tubeless or not !??

I have done five sets of wheels tubeless recently. I got this wheel as a spare, but noted that it has no lip at all on the inside of the rim edge.


How does a tyre stay on? I don't have a spare tyre to try it right now, and removing a tyre from a tubeless set up just to experiment is too messy/faffy ! [ie I'm too lazy!]

Yes, certainly bi pod, but which one?

This is not an area that I have any experience in.

I'm heading towards a fat bike cargo bike and was thinking about a heavy duty kick stand. I'd be looking to braze on a dedicated plate for this.

What should I be looking for?

https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-molo ... 2444-p.asp

Out of stock here but perhaps available else where. This would be my choice.

I think the 30mm etc refer to the outside dia. Smaller / thinner for smaller hands.

22.2 is what you'll need. Most probably!

Salsa Moloko bar? I might have mis spelled that......

That aside, i think you are on the right lines. I'd go ahead and give it a go. (Ex tandem off road mtb racer

On my forks a short stainless steel bolt from both sides work but of course yours may be different........

thanks for that, very helpful.

OK, I've gone almost the whole hog. I can't check the alignment at the mo, but there may be the required tool at work. When we are allowed back.

So, I've renewed the inner and outer cable, and the shifter. Big improvement, looking good on the stand, but haven't ridden it yet.

I added an inch or two to the cable outer to give a smoother curve feeding into the mech. The old cables looked pretty good, but the end ferrule at the mech was slightly bent.

I also removed one chain link which has improved tension when on the small cogs, but is not too tight on the 46. I didn't fit this chain myself and hadn't noticed it was slightly longer than the ideal.

Test ride tomorrow [today! Just look at the time...]

see above : typo, yes M 8000 11spd...….

So,

it's not the chain.

Situation improves quite a bit when I turn the RD clutch off. Much more ridable like this, but still not perfect.

I have a new shifter I can try, but have the bother of removing a glued on grip..... Just need to knuckle down to it I guess.

I assume that the rubber covered port on the clutch is for lubing?? If so, that should help.??

Parts used: XT shifter.m800 XT r/mech m8000 Sunrace MX8 cass / Shimano XT cassette. (Sram XD cass, haven't tested this re current problems but has always worked fine). Hubs are Hope. Chain i can't recall, probably KMC.

Jumps every time going up the block, variable going down.

TC