Cycling UK Forum

thanks for the replies, really helpful. Most people I read that are 5ft 8in go for the small. Trying out doesn't seem to be an option as no-one seems to keep stock and aren't willing to order two different sized bikes for me to try. Nearest stockist is 200 miles away! Pretty sure the small is the one though.

I'm looking at a Genesis Longitude but they've changed the sizes to S,M,L and a Croix de Fer 52cm fits me like a glove. At 5ft 8in the chart says a medium but I've heard they're very stretched out and the reach/stack of the small is nearest the reach/stack of my CdF. The standover height of the medium is half an inch more than the CdF but the seat tube of the small is almost 4.5in shorter than the CdF which makes me think the seat post is going to be too long and flexible. Would anyone have Genesis Longitude sizing advice?

The inner wouldn't come out and there is a cut in the outer near the brake, most likley from the ice crash I would think. I think the whole system had corroded as I couldn't get the inner out without cutting the outer at the lever. A couple of bad winters and lots of salt/grit in the cut has done for the inner/casing.

Interesting thought. I had a tumble on ice last winter, onto the brake side. Perhaps it's knocked it out of line and it's got worse since then. Will check.

thanks for that. Now to source a 146cm casing!

cheers,

Alistair

I've never really been able to replicate the rear braking ability when the bike was new and it was easy to lock the wheel and braking was superb. Since changing the pads it seems to have got progressively worse and the lever goes all the way to the handlebar now. Cable seems tight as it will go but the power isn't there. Would it be casing related? Does it need replaced? It's a full length casing from lever to brake. The brakes are Hayes CX Expert mechanical with Tiagra ST-4600. Fantastic setup when new. The lever sticks when not used for a day or two though and the return on the brake isn't full so I suspect the casing is shot?

thanks for any advice,

Alistair

thanks for all the replies. I've had a good rummage round the bike based on suggestions (which has been superb for the two years I've had it from new). Just noticed that slowly turning the bars with the front wheel off the ground, the headset "locks" into the straight ahead position. There's a very slight resistance to moving it away from straight ahead in either direction, as if it's notched in that position. It's not friction from the cables on the frame but a definite "notch" feeling. Like a circular switch that has a default position in the middle. That would explain the "slippy" feeling I suppose. With my weight on the bars it would make the notching more pronounced and the force needed to change direction would build up until it suddenly overcame the notch and the bike lurched to the right. So rather than turning the bike I'm trying to move the headset out of the notch. I'll overhaul it once the new tool and grease arrive...

Alistair

It's definitely better at high speed downhill, can't detect any play at all. It's only at slower speeds and worse at walking pace. I've tried the usual bearing test, rocking the wheel, pushing it side to side, look at when spinning when on or off the bike so I don't think it's the wheel. I'll try the spokes though, hadn't considered that. I'm tending to think it's the headset. It's unrideable off the bars now as it darts to the right and the front end just feels too light and skittish, almost as if it's lifting up. It's a very weird feeling. When I first encountered it, it felt like there was a slick film of grease on the front tyre causing it to slide on the road. I much check...

tyre is fine, runs perfectly smoothly, no kinks. I haven't touched the headset so I suspect it might need a cleanout but I'll give the forks a good inspection. The roads here are appalling but under heavy disk braking there's no veering off so I assume it's the headset. I'll do the rocking test too to make sure, thanks.

A week or so ago my front wheel started to feel "slippy" for want of a better word. There was something about the way it felt when cornering. It would feel as if it wanted to "slip" sideways. Most disconcerting. When riding off the bars the bike has started to show a marked tendency to veer to sharply to the right and when cornering slowly (walking pace) the steering is doing the same thing. It just feels like the front wheel wants to pitch to the right and the bike's balance goes to pot. High speed cornering on a long downhill is less affected and barely noticeable. I was wondering if it was the headset (2015 Croix de Fer) as the tyre is less than a year old and looks fine, no cuts etc and runs perfectly smoothly. It's just like it feels the road is permanently "wet" at slower speeds (12-20mph). Has anyone else come across this behaviour with steering and was it the headset just needing a good clean?

thanks,

Alistair

I've got an Arkel Randonneur rack. It's not cheap but is brilliant:

http://www.arkelpanniers.co.uk/uk/all-categories/bicycle-bike-pannier-rack/arkel-randonneur-rack.html

The Tail Rider bag works great with it, although it will take any bag I think:

http://www.arkelpanniers.co.uk/uk/all-categories/seat-bags-trunk-bags/tailrider.html

I've just had a 1968 Flying Scot renovated by Mercian Cycles in Derby. Fantastic job. Racing Green frame/Apple green lug lining and headset.

http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/renovation

I've got a rather old Campag 54/48 chainring that came off the Scot, with a nice old Campag rear mech. They could do with some buffing up but they do look nice. Problem is, the rings are practically the same size! Not sure what the point of that is. I'd rather have a compact as everything round here is at the top of a very steep hill.

Was looking at a new Campag groupset but not sure whether the power torque BB would be compatible with a 1968 frame? Plus the BB doesn't half stick out.

thanks Brucey, will take a look at the Orange stuff. Yes it's a 68/118mm BB in it just now so that's good to know I can use Hollowtech II if needed. Agree on the aesthetics. It had ancient campag gear on it but too rusty to put back on.

Alistair

I've just had a Flying Scot renovated and it has a BB-UN55 bottom bracket but I see all the 105/Tiagra stuff is Hollowtech II. Would anyone have any recommendations for a good square taper crankset? Not sure if I can fit a Hollowtech II BB to the Scot (1968).

Ideally I'd like to equip it with a 105 groupset but with the modern double chainring that gets you the same range as the 'older' triples (e.g. like the one on a Genesis Croix de Fer).

thanks,

Alistair