Cycling UK Forum

Have heard of "superglue" being used but I have not tried it.
Inners tend to have some form of lubrication on them so need a good clean to get solder to stick and possibly a good flux. (Bakers fluid ?)
Some inners also have a nylon / ptfe coating.

Yes it works BUT.
This unit must put quite a strain on the chain.
I have had cassettes which have needed extreme force to undo.
I can imagine it being handy if you need to replace spokes on the drive side when on a long tour?

When you say jumps:
Is it jumping sprockets from side to side?
Or jumping on the one same sprocket?

Once in gear I doubt a worn derailleur will cause jumping.

Do you have someone who can follow you and watch the chain etc?

As you have replaced all the likely suspects then there is the possibility that it is the freewheel / freehub ratchet skipping but I have not heard of one intermittently slipping.

Chances are it's a Presta but have a look at this:-

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_u-v.html#valve

john_roberts wrote: I'm not going to thrash the bike (I'm too old for that)

Your never to old to give your bike a good thrashing.
You show it whose boss.

Chris Juden,s article says all 7 speed (Campag' & Shimano) are 5mm pitch.

The "B" tension adjuster is used to get the top jockey wheel as near the sprocket as possible, without actually touching. You will hear a rattling noise if it does touch.
(Oh! that's what that noise is. )

I have filed a bit off the frame "tang" before today to allow this to happen.
It certainly makes a difference to the changing if you can get the jockey nearer the cassette. You can prove this by manually pushing the deraileur up nearer the cogs.

I must say I am impressed with my Rubinos.
I have 25s on my tourer and 23s on my general "sport" machine.
And the best bit is the cost.

I have had Vittorias before and they seemed to rot before your eyes, but as my usual Michelins are now obsolete I tried them again. Have lasted all last year and still going strong.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... ITTTYRR300

How about something like this:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/silver-alloy-adju ... 240%3A1318

Lots of other styles on Ebay and in the usual shops.

This type ("front loader" [slang terminology]) allows removal of the bars easily without having to strip them down. But make sure its the right size for your bar fixing diameter!

Measure the diameter of your stem.
Chances it's either 22.2 mm (1 inch) or 25.4 (1.1/8 inch).

Don't buy one yet.
Prove yours first in case it's not the mech.!

If in the end you do decide to buy one then the dearest is generally the best.
If you have a Shimano set up then use a Shimano replacement.
Don't get another make, ie Suntour, Campagnolo etc.
Have a search through the shops first to get an idea of values.

I think the order of MTB mech's = (low to high)
Acera, Alivio, STX (RC), Deore (LX), XT, XTR.

Road Mech's =
Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace. [obsolete type = RSX].

There are probably a couple I have missed.

If you have a triple front chainset then you will need a "long cage" version which most MTBs are.
A lot of Shimano mech's say 9 speed. This is not a problem as they can also be used with 8's.
MTB mech's are designed to work with larger rear sprockets (upto 34 teeth) whereas road mech's have usually a limit of 27 teeth?

Regarding fitment:- As you can see from your Tourney "Tech' Doc" there are 2 types of fitment.
1) = A little bracket that is secured by the wheel axle nut and small grub screw.
2) = A "Direct Attachment" large diameter bolt to a fitting on the frame.

Let us know which style is yours before buying

My own personal experience = Alivio, STX, STX RC, LX, Sora, RSX = all on triples and 8 speed.
The cheaper ones work just as well as the top range but possibly wear out quicker.
Having said that they will last a few thousand miles.

Shouldn't be a problem (famous last words.!)

6 and 7 speed Shimano have a sprocket pitch of 5.0mm and 8 speed is 4.8mm.
At the very least you should get 7 sprockets so if it doesn't reach that far then

Which model of "Tourney" There are lots of variations

:- http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/bl ... 0210372189

This is a typical Shimano tech' sheet:-

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 612967.pdf

I know it's a bind but if you can unslip the chain then try the set up without the chain on.
Make sure that the deraileur "stop" screws are fully backed out. You should be able to see where they touch and check there is some clearance.

I noticed on the first "Technical Sheet" it says "6 & 7 gears". Just maybe the mech' isn't capable of an 8 range but I know that a 7 speed is virtually the same overall spread as 8's so really shouldn't be a problem.

Another thought:- Make sure the cable end, in the changer, that the "bullet" end has seated completely into its hole. (Unlikely, but if it's sticking out a bit it will limit the changer movement.)

I assume that you have a Shimano rear mech'?
Have you got the cable positioned correctly in the rear mech'? (There should be a shallow slot to align the cable position)
I assume you have checked the operation of the changer with a slack cable. (pull on cable for 7 clicks).
Put the changer to "No1" and loosen the cable on the mech'.
Make sure the chain is on the smallest cog.
Wind in the rear adjuster and back out a turn.
Now pull and secure the cable in its slot.
Next support the bike so that you can turn the pedals and rear wheel.
Now, using your hand, pull on a bare section of cable to make aure that the deraileur will travel to both ends of the cassette with ease. (obviously while turning the pedals / wheel) [proving you can get the gear range].
Now select "2nd " gear on the changer. Tighten or slacken the adjuster if needed.
And so to the other gears.

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/main. ... mId=130305


Also see:- http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index ... 15416.html

A link is made up of an inner and outer.
You need both an inner and outer to be able to join the chain together (ie to link it !)
You cannot properly join a chain together with 2 outers or 2 inners - you need a link.
Yes I know you can get half links but it's still an inner and outer.