Cycling UK Forum

glueman wrote: and I prefer the MTB with naked pedals.
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On my MTB I use walking boots and straps. (especially in winter)

For "normal" riding then anything goes.
Rivendell says he uses sandalls, - In the middle of winter ??
For sport / racing then I prefer some form of fixing to the pedal. (Straps or clipless)
I have now gone clipless (MTB style SPD) after many years of straps.
There is a concern about knee and leg injury and I did have a problem initially with my first clipless pedal type but not now.
No I don't think you get 360-degree force, but I do use partial upstroke sometimes.
A stiff shoe helps to spread the pedal load if using a small platform.

UrbanManc wrote:I'm seeking clarification about the regulations in force but highway code regulation stipulates ;

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My understanding is that the "Highway Code" is just that!
It's a code and not directly enforceable by law?
There are however laws that will take into consideration that the "code" is not being followed.
ie : due care / consideration, etc'.
There is also the law that says that no one must endanger other road users which obviously the van does by forcing cyclists and pedestrians into the path of oncoming vehicles.

Just bought a pair of shorts. They are going back.
Not impressed with the quality or the fit.

I'm fairly certain you can dismantle the jockeywheels and take the mech' off without splitting the chain and visa-versa.
I have done it with a Shimano derailleur.

[quote
Anyway, I might change the rear mech because I now have a suspicion it may be bent!! Which will also be causing me issues (such as auto-changing?). It does look to be pointing somewhat towards where the tyre hits the ground, rather than straight down.[/quote]

Is your mech' the type that fits to the spindle or is there a proper hanger on the frame?
The frame hanger may be bent and can be straightened with care. If it is bent then your new mech will have the same problem.

Look from the rear and from above and the jockey wheels should be parallel to the sprockets.

Use some lubrication such as vaseline.

I would agree with Manx Cat.
Have you been overdoing recently?
Longer rides or a lot of climbing?
If so then more riding isn't going to make it better!
Go to your doctors.

Take these 3 times a day and come back next week.

Edit = Have you altered your bike recently?
ie: saddle height or position?

The stopping / starting is probably down to your internet connection.
Worse time = 17.00 to 21.00 hrs = kid's are home from school and workers from work.
21.00 = last orders. off to the pub?

Trek 520 mentioned in this article:-

http://www.adventure-cycling-guide.co.uk/bike4.htm

Which Hightrail do you have as there are various models ?

http://www.saracencycles.com/index.php? ... Itemid=257

Does the twistgrip have any numbers on it?

Disconnect the cable from the rear gear and operate the twist grip to determine the clicks.

I have made 2 bike trailers and they worked well.
The only drawback is storage when not in use. There can be issues when parking at your destination but not usually a problem?
Certainly with any bikes on the back of your car and you have to have a light board. Otherwise have the bikes high enough as not to obstruct the lights and number plate.

You get a set of cleats with "SPD" pedals.
They are available separately though :-

http://www.ctcshop.org.uk/cycling/p/CTC ... 000000886/

These are in the CTC shop but are about half that price at other stores (£9.00).
The Lidl shoes are only for SPD style cleats (not Look etc) and are easy to fit.
The shoes can be used without cleats if you just want to use them with toestraps.

Yes you can use compressed air but you are probably as quick with a cloth.
Compressed air, like high pressure water, can blow pass seals and possibly force water into the bearings. Use with care and DON'T LET THE AIR JET BLOW ONTO YOUR SKIN.

What kind of touring?
Day rides?
Week long?
End to end?
My own personal taste would not include an aluminium frame bike for long comfortable rides. Especially with an Ali' fork.
Others will disagree but my own experiance is aluminium can give a harsh ride. On the other hand a stiff frame helps to transmit the power,
I would also consider drop handle bars especially if you end up riding into a strong headwind. Flat bars limit your hand positions so fit bar ends at least as well.
Mudguards are not essential but well worth it again for comfort. (dry bum & feet) The marin will take these by the looks of it.
The gear ratio of the marin would be O.K for not too hilly rides. The chainrings and rear cassette can be changed if needed to give lower ratios.