Cycling UK Forum

Had a noise on the rear guard - turned out to be loose rivets.
Also check the bridge attachment is tight where the "wings" go under the guard.

I would also say put them where the cable enters the brake adjuster. It will allow the adjuster to turn easier.

pubrunner wrote:Will the front deraileur be able to cope with such a setup ?

Possibly might have a problem if it's a "braze on". If it's band on then you should be able to lower it to suit.
Why doesn't he want a triple. - gives the best of all worlds.
Mid gear for general use.
Low gear for any hill and large gear for sprinting.

I have used smaller bottom brackets but have fitted a thin spacer (1/8") to offset it. The other thing that I have heard of is to slightly angle the rear of the derailleur towards the frame so that it pushes the chain over to the small ring.

I think that is a bottom pull?
Difficult to tell from the photo but have you got the derailleur just clearing the big ring. There seems to be a lot if that's the right position.
ie:- lower the mech' until there is just 2mm clearance between the cage and the big ring.

It is an offence under the Highways Act 1980 to obstruct the Highway, or interrupt (delay or impede), injure or endanger any user of the Highway. Offences are each subject to a maximum fine £1000.
In respect to hedge cuttings, it is an offence to leave cuttings on the road, footpath or cycle track which delay or endanger cyclists or harm other users

If the local authority is called out to sweep up cuttings, those responsible could face paying for the cost. (£400 is typical. )

Those who suffer delay or damage may be able to sue those responsible for compensation.

(gleaned from a pamphlet Lancashire County Council).

So report problem to your local council.

If you already have canti brakes then it is just a straight swap for "V" brakes. The only problem is if you change the wheel diameter.
"V" brakes don't need a "bridge" as the cable goes direct to brake.
What usually requires changing is the brake lever as V brakes have a different pull than canti's.

P.S. Cantilever brakes are still available :-
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s101p0

Edit. Don't change the levers though until you've tried them.

A few years back I changed my cantis to "V" as there was a "deal" going at the time. Have a look around and you may find a "bargain"
The other thing to consider (if you haven't already ) are the gear changers?

andrew_s wrote:

cycleruk wrote:Another option is to fit smaller chainrings but again only if practical.

The chainset will almost certainly have a smallest possible chainring size of 39T, so that won't get you very far.

That's why I said if practical.

Basically Yes you can.
You may have a problem though in that the deraillier won't clear such a large cog as the 34.
You might have to change the derailleur for a compatable one but with friction shifters this shouldn't cause a problem.

You also may have to fit a longer chain?

Another option is to fit smaller chainrings but again only if practical.

Purchase an O.S. map of your area, if you haven't got one. ( or go to your local library and borrow one).
All the bridleways will be shown and get the kids to work a route out (with some guidance ) for themselves.
Work on the basis of 5 mph and be prepared to get muddy.
Try to make it steep up and long down and pick country lanes to join the offroad sections together.
There are some nice bits around your area as we have had an MTB weekend down your way.

roadiesean wrote:Now I have the 9 speed ergos, but a full 10 speed combo, cassette and chain included, do I need to change the Ergos, or can I just limit the high or low gear in the cassette ????

In theory NO!

See:- http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946

The 9 speeds pull a different cable length than a 10.
But you should be able to use an adapter or, if my understanding is right. it may be possible to purchase a 10sp ratchet and fit it in your Ergo's?

The other possible is to position the derailleur cable further from the pivot which in effect will reduce the derailleur "swing".

meic wrote:I have done 22,000 miles never carrying more than one inner tube, no problems, exactly what level of disaster are you expecting to meet?
Only twice have I written off a tube and I managed to buy a tube within 24 hours or so. The odds of wrecking a second tube in that period were about 1,000 : 1.
Unless there was another fault causing the tubes to be destroyed, in which case 2 would not be enough!

I / others have used both tubes. I have also lent a tube to others when they have used both theirs. Must admit that it is very rare but does happen.
I also carry a repair kit if doing even a short tour.

A lot depends on the terrain you cycle. My area gets a lot of hedge cuttings (thorns) and it wouldn't be the first time that we've failed to remove the cause.

Last year, on 2 seperate occasins, we had riders who suffered 2 punctures ( front and back) at the same time. They hit potholes causing pinch punctures.

Besides the spokes protruding above the nipples - is the spoke "pattern" correct? (say compared with your existing wheels).

Carry two spare innertubes.

I have a double barrel mini-pump as mentioned above. (In fact I have 2 off them.)
2 barrels for initial inflation and switches to 1 for higher pressure.
I have searched the interweb but not found it.

A narrow barrel will always give a higher pressure for the same force effort compared with a "broad" barrel.

I still prefer the "normal" frame fit pump but now with sloping top tubes it's not always practical.

Have you considered single sided pedals?

Such as:-
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... 0000000000

or:-
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... 0000000000