Cycling UK Forum

Hi, I'm looking at hubs specifically FH-T780, and FH-M785. They look pretty much the same except for the presence of the center lock disk mount. I thought I could build a wheel with the M785, and when the rim was nearly worn out, switch to disk (disc?) brakes/forks/whatever. But I can't see if the retail package comes with the Rotor Mount Cover (Y25Y06000). Anybody know if it does ?
Cheers,
Bruce.

I'm re-assured, many thanks.
Bruce.

So I just got a good deal on a new rim, £36.85 for the above - and - as with all good deals, I decided to inspect it closely when I got home. The A719 (like the open pro) usually has a little semi-circle cut into the inner side of the rim near the sticker to act as a wear indicator. This one doesn't - and it only came in black. Anyone got any ideas ? Could it just be old stock or something - it would have to be really old....
Thanks for any info,
Bruce.

nez dans le guidon wrote:Could it have separated?

That was my first thought... so I gave the tube a little massage, at which point it started to leak out of the base crimp (Where it's been stamped with a number, which has cut through the metal). I'll stand it on its head for a few hours and see what comes out. A lot of bother for a minor component. Does anyone know what this stuff is supposed to smell like ?

The impression I got whilst surfing was that silicon grease was the stuff to use when rubber is involved. But I was expecting grease, and I got what looks like oil - in a tube. Has anyone had experience with this particular brand ? It looks like motor factor stuff.. It's widely available.

Hi,
I just bought a tube of this to lube my track pump and light battery seals etc... It has the viscosity of a thick oil - about the same as vulcanising solution. Is this right ? I've had silicon grease before and it's been a paste. It was off ebay and I just want to see if their dumping defective stuff again or I'm just not aware if what people call grease.
Thanks in advance,
Bruce.

cycleruk wrote:Looking at your original bars I personally would have set them up differently.
I would turn them down and move the brake levers up so as to still maintain the "flat" feel to the tops.
Having said that I have gone off these "ergonomic" type as I have had them on a couple of bikes and now prefer the rounder bars.
The other bars shown I presume are what are now being called "Compact" as they have less reach and less drop. ??
I have one pair of Compacts and I do like them. The one thing I notice though is these bars will bring the bar-end levers nearer your knees if that is a concern?
As stated above they will be a shorter reach to the hoods and less of a reach down to the bar-ends.

Thanks for the input, I think I'll try turning the bars down first when I fit some ergo leavers, and see how it feels.

Additional information : The bars pictured above are "Shimano PRO LT Anatomic Drop Handlebars - 31.8mm Clamp" purchased from SJS in 2011

Hi, I'm getting some new handlebars since the tape and brakes need doing. Here are my current ones :I think these are ergo bars and I want to get rid of the silly angle going down to the gear levers but keep the nice long flat bit on the top (where the ruler is resting) as this is where I spend most of my time. The ruler indicates a very large reach (10-11cm) but the bars I'm looking at seem to have a reach of 75mm or so (The cheap deda bars mostly). So I want the same but curling round so the bar is (more or less) horizonal when I'm on the drops. Any suggestions ?
Many thanks,
Bruce.
P.S. I will also be getting new brake levers or STI's

I understand the dishing improvement argument - thanks, good to know.

I'd suggest that you use a 130mm hub that you can definitely respace to 133mm (by adding spacers on the left, which improves the dish and therefore makes a stronger wheel) or just get a 135mm hub to start with.

The photo above shows the cap nut on my XT hub - I'm going to assume the ultegra hub is similar (though It's got the digital index thing which might make a difference - but I like the sound of it). From bottom to top there is the cone, a very thin washer then the cap nut starting at 1mm on the ruler. There is another black band which is an O-ring. The cap nut ends at 10mm. Assuming 3mm for material at the end of the cap nut this gives 6mm of engaged thread between the axle and cap nut. Putting a 3mm washer would cut the engaged thread in half. Given the material of the axle (aluminium), I'd be concerned that the thread on the end of the axle would strip when tightening to lock the cones.

The implication is that hubs of this design cannot be respaced.
I wonder if the axles are available as a spare part....

So original question remains, is it OK to put a 130mm hub in this frame ?

Many thanks, this thread has cleared up a few issues I was confused about.
Bruce.

I took a couple of photos and looked at them carefully and realised the nipple is pointing straight to the centre of the hub, it just looks more angled up close.

Any 135mm OLN wheel will be stronger than an exactly similar 130mm OLN wheel for no extra weight or money.....whats not to like?

The fact that I might want to use it on a race type carbon fibre frame in the future and 135mm just wont fit.

If I were you I'd just build a new rim onto the old wheel

The spokes are actually the oldest part of the wheel having seen two rims and two hubs. Also, They have been chewed by the chain dropping off the largest sprocket. The only thing worth saving is the hub so I'd rather keep it as a spare whole wheel, since my experience is that you can still get allot of mileage out of them even after the wear indicator has appeared.

I'd respace 130mm hubs to 133mm in such a frame

The hub I'm considering for the alternative build is the Ultegra which has an aluminium axle and no protrusion of the axle into the dropouts. Rather, the end caps protrude into the drops. My concern is that adding spacers inside the end caps would reduce the amount aluminium thread available to bring force to bear on the cones to lock them. This may strip the thread. Also, I think they are 'locked' at one end (XT ones are) which means they could only be respaced at the other, requiring re-dishing, and 2mm of thread loss.

The frame may be gnot-rite spacing

Yea I'm a little concerned about this - I'd be happy if it was, it's just the LHT has always been spec'ed as 135mm rear dropouts as far as I am aware......

As far as thread lock is concerned I quite fancy that light blue plasticy stuff that seems common on things like brake bolts, I'm after an anti-sieze compound really - is this just thread lock compound and if so which one ?
Many thanks,
Bruce.

Hi, the wear indicator on my rear rim is starting to show, time to build a new wheel and I have some questions :
Current wheel is FH-T780 shimano XT 135mm with DT swiss competition spokes and Mavic A719 .
I'm considering building a completely new wheel exactly the same. My question is : Are mavic rims drilled in such a way that a particular spoke hole is supposed to go to a particular side of the flange ? I don't mean which flange - that's obvious from inspection. It's just that some of the spokes look like their not on the nipples straight. I use sheldons' guide to building wheels each time.

I'm also considering another combination - Ultegra/sapim strong and race/open pro's. Ultegra is a 130mm hub. When I received my Long Haul trucker, the rear dropouts were space at 132.5mm(exactly) though the bike is spec'ed for 135mm. I've always had to spring them to get the rear wheel in and last time I checked (after 18 months use), they measures 133.5mm. So can I get away with a 130mm hub ?

Last question is nipple lube - has anyone tried candle wax ? Is this silly ? Should I just get a proprietary nipple lube and if so what are they like? Waxy/Greasy/Oily/plasticy? Wheels are built tight, I' not worried about loosening.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Thanks for the input, I don't think the wheels are for me - given my size. And I still can't find any further information about the computer so I'm going to give them both a miss.
Thanks all,
Bruce.

I've been looking at
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 5000000000
and
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 2000000000

Can only find adds for sale for the computer and no reviews. It has exactly the functionality I want but there's no information or a manual around. Anyone know anything ?
As far as the wheels go, are they just fall apart first time out jobbies or do they have potential ? I was thinking of cranking up the spoke tension a bit - I've been building my own wheels for years and I always seem to do OK as long as I can get them nice and tight. They'll be used unloaded but I'm 115Kg. Is there an exploded view of the hub knocking around?
Cheers,
Bruce.

Many thanks, I'll give it a try at some point in the future. Sounds like the cassette indexing is good and if I don't like what happens with the front end I'll go back to a bar end shifter for the front (which I understand is popular with some people anyway).
Cheers,
Bruce.