Cycling UK Forum

Success, it was a reverse thread, fairly easy to remove with a pair of short pin nosed pliers. Components removed in order shown right to left. The broken drilled washer (the bit a guess needs replacing) actually broke through the plastic shroud and was removed before dissassemly. I then split the rest of the shroud to examine the rest of the assembly. I think this could form the bassis of some sort of repair and maybe a modification to allow 7/8/9/10/11 speed cassettes. But I'm guessing the drilled washer is made from hardened steel. I expected a non-linear spacing between the gear indentations but there seem to be two groups of three.... There were also a couple of small pieces of metal that may have broken off something though I can't determine what (one show to the left of the plastic shroud).

Wow, you're all doing better than me - my last chain lasted 1500km before it reached the 0.5% stretch mark. I know this has been asked before but does a worn cassette wear a new chain ? My last one had just past the 0.75 point when I changed it, the the new one worked fine. The next chain though - as I said - only lasted 1500km. This is in mixed weather, not particularly wet (I try to keep this bike for the dry) and using Finsh line dry to lube after wiping with a dry cloth.
Cheers,
Bruce.

The plot thickens, Having removed the crushed washer I am now confronted by this :I'm not sure if it's on a thread (there is none evident), looks like a special or improvised tool is required. Anyone recognise it ?
I'm beginning to dwell on the difference between belligerence and determination....
Cheers,
Bruce.

Thanks for the replies - the impression I get is you can't go wrong with the small ring or the big rings because the derailleur stops will take care of them so all you have to worry about is the middle ring which can be aligned with the barrel adjusters. I'm now tempted to try the doubles because their cheaper and the 'clicks' wont be in the 'right' place anyway - It's just a question of how much cable they pull.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi, I have a couple of broken right/rear bar end shifters (7700-9sp), which I want to have a crack at reconditioning. Anybody know how to get them apart ? Where can I get a replacement drilled indexing washer ?
Cheers,
Bruce.

Thanks, that's really useful. From what I've read, the latest Athena shifters (2014) can only go down one sprocket at a time...
I was a little confused by you post, I can't find Chorus triple shifters anywhere. It's all a bit confusing, I'm gonna get a 10sp chain and cassette next week and if it works in friction mode with the rest of the drive train, I might get 105 shifters.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi,
Set up is :
frame Surlt LHT
Chainset Trutivia isoflow 52/42/30 on square taper BB
Front derailleur Shimano Deore (yea I know this is the wrong one for the chainset but it works)
Rear derailleur Shimano tiagra long cage
levers dura-ace bar end 9 speed
cassette HG50 12-27 (or 11-24 sometimes)
chain HG53
rear hub HB-T780 XT 9/10 speed

From my reading on the current state of shimergo, 11sp campy shifters should work with the above setup but I have some questions :
1) I'm looking at Athena shifters but there seem to be two that are the same but different on the market - the ones marked 2014 being cheaper :
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 1000000000
anyone know the difference ?
2) Generally, has anyone done this, does it work ? The intention is to just drop in these levers and expect them to work with the kit I already have. Then maybe start using 10sp chains and cassettes with the hubub cable route and finally when the price of 11sp cassettes and chains becomes reasonable, buy a campag mech and use all the gears available on the levers but still using shimano consumables (I'll have an 11sp hub by then).
3) Read there maybe some issues with the strength of the spring on shimano front derailleurs and the front lever being able to hold the derailleur in position. Anyone had any experience with this ? campag derailleurs are conspicuoisly expensive.
4) Given the price of campag derailleurs , is there a way to use 11sp ergos with the tiagra derailure and 11sp drivetrain (like the wheel thing that sits on the back of the mech and adjusts the amount of cable pulled). Is it worth shelling out for a campag derailleur, are they worth the extra monrey?

Many thanks, as ever, in advance.
Cheers,
Bruce.

So 9 months on I think I have the answer : handlebar tape (foam type) held in place by gaffa (duct) tape. I've done about 5000km with this repair in place on a small (couple of mm in length) cut all the way through the carcass and tread. There's no chaffing on the inner tube and there was no bulge outwards when the tyre was inflated to its max recommended pressure. I also patched an even bigger split with a bit of gatorskin wall superglued in, followed by handlebar tape and then gaffa tape. I replaced the tyre soon afterwords so I can only say it lasted a couple of hundred km.
Bruce.

Hi, I've been recording my rides on my phone and have a big stack of gpx files I'd like to analyse. Specifically extrapolating power data from climbing rate. I've looked at a few windows apps but no online apps, There seems to be a lot of noise out there. Is there an old windows app that does it all ?

Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi, I'm 6"2', inside leg 89.5cm which gives my an ideal frame size of 23.6"(60cm) - according to the interweb. So I bought a 60cm LHT. Everybody around me told me I needed a larger frame of the order of 24-25.5". Think they were right - look at the size of the stem. Also look at the size of the stem in the photo in the previous post. Your right to have a good think about this.

I think this may be the tool, I'll bump this thread next time I change the chain with a video maybe.

if the pin isn't being driven in quite straight, it won't go in no matter how much force is used.

I thought this was the purpose of the pilot part of the pin, to ensure that everything is aligned properly. I've also just had a closer look at the tool I was using. The pin (on the tool) that bears down upon the pin (used to fasten the chain) is not held tightly by the screw - there is some play. Could this create enough of an angle to break the pin. I've just dug out my old halfords one and it doesn't have the same problem - but it doesn't have the hollowed bolt at the other end to hold the chain securely in place either.

Cheers,
Bruce.

I think you may have misunderstood, it was a new chain supplied with a new special pin. The video does make it look very easy but my experience wasn't the same. I had to apply an enormous amount of force before the pin split, so much that the pin was no longer being driven in strait - hence the breakage. This solution seems unique to shimano, I don't suppose there is any chance the pin could have been the wrong dimensions ? Does anybody have a link to the specs for the pins so I can check them with a calliper before my next attempt (with another new chain & pin) ?
Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi,
I've switched back to shimano chains for a bit but have not yet successfully fitted one using the supplied pin. My little bag of SRAM links is running low so I'm gonna try and get it right this time. The tool I have available to me is show below :

Last time I tried to join the chain, the pin broke from the pilot before any of the actual pin got through the first plate. I was using a lot of force on the screw of the tool. Anyone got any suggestions ? Should I lube the pin or freeze it or something ? I've been tightening the bolt at the top end to hold the chain firmly after the pilot was inserted.
Thanks in advance,
Bruce.

Thanks for the input, I think power cranks are out of my price range for the moment and I can extrapolate this from GPS anyway. I've seen some reasonably priced ANT sensors around :
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bon ... r-ec036094
Cheaper than the BT4 sensors. I found a list of ANT phones :
http://www.thisisant.com/directory/filter/~/60/~/
They all seem fairly expensive.
I found a list of BT4 phones :
http://www.bluetooth.com/Pages/Bluetoot ... -List.aspx
Which seems to indicate that all samsung galaxy phones have BT4 and some of those are dirt cheap :
http://www.carphonewarehouse.com/mobiles/pay-as-you-go
The Samsung Galaxy Fame also has android 4.1 which is likely to be compatible with the latest software is this correct ?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce.