Cycling UK Forum

Hi, I'm looking for the cheapest way to record all of these. I'm getting the impression that power is inevitably expensive. I was considering getting a mobile phone with Bluetooth smart which will deal with the maps and GPS and then get separate Speed/cadence and heat rate sensors (Wahoo?). There are however some questions about compatibility - for example Samsung Galaxy Y is dirt cheap at £40 but I can't find out if it has Bluetooth smart or if it will run the relevant software. Anyone successfully gone the mobile phone route ? £300+ is a lot to pay for the Garmin.
Cheers,
Bruce.

So I went for a ride yesterday along the wentloog flats with my new 1080p sports cam and guess what I caught.
http://youtu.be/JCV9_83wuBM
Don't get me wrong, this is just normal in Cardiff but I'm curious to know what offence the driver has committed. Is it
a) Careless Driving
b) Dangerous driving
c) Threatening use of a motor vehicle
d) Attempted murder (but with the whole "make it look like an accident" angle)
Has anyone had any prosecution success with anything like this ? Speeds are high and it's potentially fatal. Anybody know what the best way to get the address of the registered vehicle keeper ? Has any progress been made creating a deterrent against this sort of driving since I last posted a load of videos (many years ago).
Cheers,
Bruce.

Thanks for the pointers, I just spotted the hand operated ones, I'll Give one a try.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi,
Anybody know a reasonably priced portable jet washer, either battery or mains powered ? Needs to have a water tank (no mains supply). I noticed some a while ago around the £70 mark but everything I find via google now is over £200.
Thanks in advance,
Bruce.

Hi,
Anybody had any luck using a mobile phone as a handlebar cam ? I know there are mounts out there but they don't all leave the back camera uncovered. Does the vibration make the footage unusable ? Say for picking out registration numbers ? I run my tyres at high pressure so everything rattles a fair bit. Any Suggestions ?
Cheers,
Bruce.

Brucey wrote:If you have some thin strong fabric then covering that with a layer of duct tape isn't a bad idea. It Is best if you place the fabric and the tape to match the bias angle of the tyre, i.e. at about 35 degrees.

I guess that was the question, what is the perfect strong fabric one might have lying around ? I've got an old pair of jeans that aren't stretchy, would denim do the trick ?

The super glue idea sounds interesting but when ever I buy the cheap stuff, it doesn't work and whenever I buy the expensive stuff it evaporates before I get a second use out of it.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Hi, we recently had a rash of 'the wrong type' of glass broken in 'unfortunate for cyclists' areas here in Cardiff, and I got a few deep cuts in my gatorskins. It was the type of puncture where the glass doesn't actually go through the protection but the bit stuck in the tyre rubs against it eventually putting a small tear in the inner tube. Anyway I'm left with a tyre with a sort of hole in it but not actually a hole - so structurally sound but susceptible to another bit of material getting in and restarting the rubbing process. In the past I've taped something to the inside of the tyre to protect the tube but often the repair material itself can wear the tube to failure (I think I used a pucture patch at one point that caused this. What is the perfect material for this ? I run the tyres at max pressure (103PSI).
Cheers,
Bruce.

It works ! (at least with the bike upside down). Lucky I kept the lock rings from those cassettes, I just assumed they were all the same. I wouldn't have spotted that in a million years. Makes me feel like finding a long bit of flat with a tail wind..... But it's freezing outside.. and raining.. and I just cleaned my bike.
Thanks all,
Bruce.

I recently bought a shimano HG50 12-27 because it included 12-13-14-15...... and I particularly wanted the 14 and 15 tooth sprockets. Now I want an eleven as well. So I thought I'd pinch one off one of those 11-32 MTB cassettes I've got lying around - I never used the 11T on those anyway so they should be fine. So I removed the pins holding the cassette together and removed the 27T and put them back on the hub along with an unworn looking 11T. So I basically have an 11-24 on there. The chain skips twice on each rotation of the wheel when using the 11T sprocket on the middle and large chain rings, Even with no load. The B-tension screw is fully loosened and clearance is good. All the other gears are fine, as is shifting. Is this something to do with the shifting ramps on the teeth ? Is there any way I can file down the 11 or 12 so it doesn't catch ? Indexing on these two gears isn't that important to me anyway. Failing that, does anyone know a reasonably priced cassette with 11-12-13-14-15....
Cheers,
Bruce.

I've built my new rear wheel and everything (rim,spokes) are fine. I disassembled the old hub and still can't find the problem. One of the new cones (which were in use for a couple weeks) is badly pitted (drive side) :The other is fine. I rolled the axle again on the flattest surface I have available (kitchen worktop) and it seems strait - in the past when I've bent axles, (there have been many) they have bent significantly. Is it likely that the axle could be bent imperceptibly ? The cup on the drive side appears to be in good condition and seems to be an integral part of the freehub rather than something that has been pressed in.I re-assembled the hub dry and it's locks up in particular places when worked in the hand. I'm completely stumped. I know this might sound a little obsessive but I need to work through the problem of checking which part has gone out of spec. This is partly so I can create a procedure for checking the specifications of supplied parts in the future. I used a digital calliper to check the dimensions of the last lot of ball bearings. The unit reads to 1/100mm but I'm assuming it won't be this accurate in practice (it's a supermarket job - 'powerfix'). I'm also assuming that using a tool with this accuracy is essentially pointless on a ball bearing and the fact that I got different readings on the bearings is probably down to the tool. The question is then : how do I go about forensically diagnosing this type of failure or who do I go to to have it diagnosed; and is it likely to cost an absurd amount of money ?
Thanks for all your help,
Bruce.

I received my new hub and I'm replacing it today - shimano FH-T780. The dust cap on the previous one was very good, rubber and tight fitting but this has a massive gap in it.

Almost looks like the wrong part ! I've tried some tricks before with kitchen sealant and grease - Anyone know a good trick to get a reasonably good seal here ? An O-ring maybe ?
It seems odd they'd leave a gap this size, this makes it a guard against large objects but will do nothing against dust (or mud ?).
Cheers,
Bruce.

CREPELLO wrote:The differing play in the hub - doesn't sound too good. Are you sure the axle hasn't bent?

I rolled the axle on a flat surface when I fitted the new cones and it seemed OK. Could have been very slightly bent and I missed it, I'll have a closer look when I get it apart.

531colin wrote:Put a different wheel in and see if the fault/noise really is the wheel....or the jockey wheel running on the cassette sprocket, etc.

All the components around the wheel have changed (including the frame) - the jockey wheels have been dismantled and re-greased (BBB rollerboys ball bearing type). They are clear of the sprockets in all gears. The cassette has been replaced. The noise has been present for a long time and is coincident with the pitted cones.

531colin wrote:Spokes I wouldn't re-use once they come out of the hub....you need at the very least to keep them in 4 sets as driveside inbound, driveside outbound, etc.

What I got from this was - put the spokes back in exactly the same place as they came from - which I can do.

Brucey wrote:re the noise; could it in fact be a loose spoke?

Or could it be a fault in the cassette, or its bearings?

All the spokes are good and tight - in fact I think that whatever is happening in the hub is 'ringing' through the spokes - the wheel 'rings' on gear changes, like I said it's a tight build. The free-hub assembly feels solid and spins OK with respect to the rest of the hub.

mig wrote:how many times per wheel rev does this noise occur?

It's irregular both in frequency and intensity but I would guess 4 times or so each pedal push so 8 for a complete crank rotation.

I should add that play in the wheel (as assessed by pulling the rim side to side) changes at different points on the rim. I'm leaning to the conclusion that either the cups are unevenly worn (though I don't see how that could have happened) or that they have detached from the hub at some point.

Either way, it should be replaced on Friday so I'll disassemble it and have a very close look. I'll take the free hub off at the same time and have a good look at that as well.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Just a follow up to this issue....
I replaced the cones with ones from wheels manufacturing and new bearings from the LBS (un-spec'ed). The problem - a sound like a spoke being plucked repeatedly - reappeared immediately particularly when going up hill. I've not disassembled the hub as the bike is in use. Anyone got any further suggestions on what the fault might ultimately be ?

I going to replace the hub with the latest model of the same hub of which there are two variants :
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deor ... prod26118/
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deor ... prod26068/
The flanges seem to be more or less the same distance apart and many of the components are identical so I though I might use the centre-lock version on the grounds that at some point in the future I might use the wheel with disk brakes (you never know). Any comments on this ?
I going to re-use the spokes and rim though the spokes for this hub should be slightly shorter than the current ones. My concern here is that I might run out of thread. Is this a danger (I tend to build my wheels tight anyway). Another slight concern might be fatigue of the re-used components which are a mavic a719 rim and DT swiss competition spokes. The spokes are 7 years old and the rim about 5 years. The wear indicator is not showing on the RIM but I suspect this is only due to my obsessive cleanliness. This rim will have done about 20,000 miles and the spokes about 25,000. Is there any danger of fatigue that might make a re-use of these components a wasted effort ?
Thanks for all the help / suggestions.
Cheers,
Bruce.

I've had problems with marathons and marathon plus bought at different times from the same retailer (spa). All of them have had terrible carcases, wobbled all over the place. Where did the OP buy them ? Should an LBS be able to spot a defective tyre when it's not inflated ? I don't use shwalbe any more, I've gone back to conti - why did I ever leave ?
Cheers,
Bruce.