Cycling UK Forum

peetee wrote:If the shifter is of the type with smaller downward facing paddles that are activated by the shift lever(s) be sure the rubber hood is well out of the way

ding ding ding ! we have a winner. I guess that's why they tell you to put it in the right gear before you start the job. Now to have a look at that front mech that has far too many adjustment bolts for me to comprehend.
Lucky I spotted the rear mech cable when I did as I was about to do my yearly clean and service but was considering skipping the gear cables. Never had a rear mech cable go bad this fast, looks like there's a bit of a sharp edge there...

ooops double moron moment - the cables not jammed, it's just not engaged to anything. I can't pull it. I need to click it down through the gears without doing anything with the cable.

Sorry, my brains worn out for the day, I guess I could just unfeed it and yank it but now I've had a look at the dealer manual, I realise they specify Polymer coated inner cables, I bought galvanized. Do I just add grease or oil ? I'm reusing the bar outers.

Hi, first time doing an internal cable routed bike and did the trick with the bit of plastic tube and thought I'd dodged the bullet until .... When feeding the cable into the lever (That I'd previously clicked onto the small sprocket), the barrel end didn't line up so I gave it a click the other way... only to find that with no cable tension on it, it wouldn't go back... Then I gave it some more clicks to see if it would go all the way round ... (It doesn't). What's the trick to getting the lever back into the small sprocket position ?
Cheers,
Bruce.

Brucey wrote:FWIW folk that put TAs through British winters can find another problem, which is that the TA tends to seize up.

Should we be using anti-seize on TA axle threads ? Pretty sure if got Alu drops but I'm presuming the surly ones are steel.
I actually get quite disturbed when I accidently put my front wheel in 'backwards' and that's much less than a mm out....

zenitb wrote:Hmm .. see this https://singletrackworld.com/2019/06/st ... strations/

That cassette is hilarious, I'm not a mountain biker bit I know my legs will never go round that fast. The wear on the freehub looks uneven...

Anybody recon the new microspline thing is actually gonna work ? Looks like it will just slow things down a bit to me. Also, concerned they may stop making the nice regular steel splined stuff....

Up and running again, thanks Brucey ! I replaced the rear caliper and now have mineral pads front and back. I've done a complete bleed front and rear and have very firm brake levers. The front caliper does not seem to retract as far as the new one. The spring from the old pads was re-used on the front, is this OK ? It has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and greased with silicon grease. When I had the piston out of the rear one It didn't seem very smooth, sort of a mat finish. I've also done the alignment of the rear caliper by eye and with the pistons retracting more, this seems OK to me.
Looking more closely at the corrosion pattern on the rear caliper, I'm satisfied this was as a result of material being ejected from between the two pads and blowing back onto the caliper body. I'm hoping this is a metal pad problem that will go away with mineral pads. Went out for a wet and mucky ride Christmas eve (We've had flooding down here), and noticed that even though the bike got good and mucky, there was very little on the rear caliper and none at all on the front.
Cheers,
Bruce.

Brucey wrote:It is also possible to modify the freehub body (and/or the cassette) so that you can include thin strips of hard steel (in an ABG-esque fashion).
cheers

Have you got a pointer to details about this ? It's an ultegra 11sp so some carriers I think only 3 or 4 sprockets are chewing. Someone suggested using a staple but wouldn't this involve taking a lot of metal off the hub? Looking for a quick fix really, I knew this would happen just needs to last another 5000m or so.

Boulderman wrote:Brakes. I've read that hydraulic discs are preferred so filtering on these.

no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no..................

EDITED IGNORE FIRST PARAGRAPH OK, I got a new 105 caliper and have fitted it and primed the system as described in the shimano workshop manual. <strike>The brakes are a bit soft.</strike> One issue I had was that I was using a bottle of mineral oil like the small one here https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/383769003657 with a small nozzle. When squirted into the syringe, very small bubbles (almost a foam) appeared that I was unable to get rid of by shaking. This problem doesn't seem to appear when extracting fluid from a large container through the tube. I was reasonably careful to maintain the calipers orientation to that indicated in the documentation during the priming, Do the cylinder bores have two holes - one coming from the bleed nipple, the other from the hose so the fluid can progress from one hole to the other without forming a void ? I saw a video of a guy just pumping fluid back and forth from the bleed nipple to the funnel, anyone tried this ? I've left the bike overnight in a vertical position and will try 'burping' it again later. If that doesn't work I'm going to try running the back of the head of an ultrasonic toothbrush around the various components...

OK, I got a new 105 caliper and have fitted it and primed the system as described in the shimano workshop manual.
The brakes have a lot of travel (about half way to the bars) before they engage, then they are firm. I've tried pumping them loads to get them to self adjust.

I've previously had a problem with the alignment of the caliper. If I used what I perceive to be the standard method of : slackening the bolts enough to allow the calliper to move, depressing the lever hard and re tightening; One pad ends up against the disc ((Worth bearing in mind that this bike is from ribble so maybe wonky in some way see https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=133131 - hope this isn't libelous LOL, I can get my ruler out if necessary)). So I slackened the front bolt (rear brake) and pivoted it so that the clearances appear equidistant. But now I've read a post

Stevek76 wrote:people effectively using the rotor as a chisel on the pad rather than just taking half a second to make sure things line up

from the "yet another brake thread; not all about discs" thread, I'm starting to think that doing it this way isn't such a good idea. I'm wary about applying lubricant to the frame adaptor interface because the adaptor appears to bear directly onto the carbon frame. It also occurs to me that this is a precision fit process and inaccuracies in the frame surface or adaptor could cause this. It seems to me that the piston, pad and disc need to be precisely aligned and that the first process I described should achieve this. How should I proceed ?

Shimano dictate that the olive should be replaced but none was supplied with the caliper. How critical is this ?

Trying to get a big (1L) bottle of shimano fluid but everywhere seems out of stock, has everyone switched to baby oil ?, can anyone suggest a source ?

Cheers,
Bruce.

My understanding of the lock ring on centre lock brakes is that the ridges stop the lock ring from unscrewing. Anyone know why this washer/spacer is present. I've changed to different rotors (tektro to shimano) and I'm wondering weather this belongs to the rotor(tektro), the hub (mavic aksium) or the lock ring (ribble 'level 1' (LOL)). I've put it back in, is this the right thing to do ?
Sorry guys, your gonna get a bunch of stupid questions today - familiarising myself with the 'new technology'.
Cheers,
Bruce.

I was expecting this but not so soon, 1 year !? Anyway, I had difficulty getting the cassette off this time and I reckon next time it won't budge. I've got some needle files, how exactly do I attack it ? It's an aksium. I was intending to build a set of wheels for this bike but was hoping the ridiculously expensive ultegra hub (FH-RS770) would come down in price (It has a bit, but not much). I'm also sold on the whole sealed bearings thing, they seem a lot less bother (for a heavy rider....). So, I'm after a 142mmm thru axle hub, sealed bearings of some standard and cheaply available size, Steel freehub body and maybe a brand with some actual history... I'm aware of stuff like this :Is this just a gimmick ? It's from https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-rr-50-v3-disc-wheelset-tubeless-bundle

thelawnet wrote:

stevegreen wrote:Look out for possible customs duty, a handlig fee and VAT, if it arrives in UK after 01/01/21.

Incorrect.

Currently the item is liable for VAT and handling fee (above £15)

After 11pm 31 December, it would not be liable for any handling fee, because the VAT would be charged at sale (on everything - the £0-£15 exemption is lost).

No customs duty would be charged, because it's below £135.

Also it's not the date of arrival, it's the payment date that's the relevant criterion.

Which item are you talking about the caliper or the piston, p robikekit seem to be UK based (Manc) and the pistons are only a fiver....

anyone know if this will work temporarily ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/273771316831?chn=ps