Cycling UK Forum

Well I went for both a DYNAMO AXA HR, a IXON IQ and a IQ Cyo 60 T Senso Plus so two lights one dynamo and one battery I hope i'm covered thank you for all your advice I really appreciate it, if all goes well next could be a hub dynamo.......Lee

I forgot to mention i risked it and used www.eBay.de and got all the stuff less than half price from uk suppliers.......I am confident as the seller i used sent back 16 euro for to much shipping. How cool is that.

I'll see where i'm going, I'll be seen all half price can't wait............

So let me get this right, The dynamo is connected / wired to the IXON IQ light. When riding at night the dynamo is switched off and the light runs by rechargeable battery? (not actually the dynamo). When conditions are best or allow, make sure the the light off, activate the dynamo and that charges the batteries ready for the next night?

Have I got it? if I have this has to be the best of both worlds.

Thank you all for your comments so far, your such a helpful bunch, I'm sorry if I sound silly but I don't have much experience and I really want to get into the Audax scene with a few in independent long trips and night rides before I commit, because if I commit, I really commit and need to see if I can hack it first.

I have looked at a dynamo system first I fancied going as green as possible, but as daft as it may seem I don't understand the concept I remember having one as a kid flicking a switch the faster you peddle the more light provided. I guess things have changed.

To be honest I would not know where to start (well I do actually the HUB one is out of my budget) so my start point would be a bottle dynamo system, but it would end there. I would have no idea what system would power what light (or pair of lights) bright enough to cycle at night on a typical long Audax.

So unless you fellow cyclists would be good enough to help in selection I'll have to stick to the idea of battery.

Again thank you for your responses and in anticipation of more Ideas, suggestions, solutions you need to know I'm really grateful.......Lee

I'm thinking of taking up Audax next year committed to Sportive this year, but fancy Audax next year and have found a local CTC club that I can join.
I fancy doing some night riding and have read threads, got lots of information and my budget I'm looking at Busch + Müller IXON IQ. My question is I understand I charge the batteries, but as a back up will they take a typical Duracell type AA Batteries?

Thank you

Edit:

I have looked at a dynamo system first, I fancied going as green as possible, but as daft as it may seem I don't understand the concept I remember having one as a kid flicking a switch the faster you peddle the more light provided. I guess things have changed.

To be honest I would not know where to start (well I do actually the HUB one is out of my budget) so my start point would be a bottle dynamo system, but it would end there. I would have no idea what system would power what light (or pair of lights) bright enough to cycle at night on a typical long Audax.

So unless you fellow cyclists would be good enough to help in selection I'll have to stick to the idea of battery.

Again thank you for your responses and in anticipation of more Ideas, suggestions, solutions you need to know I'm really grateful.......Lee

Thank you all very much for the response, it has helped so much having a better understanding of what the gearing does etc. I will now try and practice the use of them, I have noticed sometimes it doesn't sound right and I have to change, I have leant to change the front gearing more. Practice, practice and more practice. Again thank you and thanks for not treating me as a Muppet I don't feel so foolish now in fact I'm so glad I asked.

Hi all
I'm going to sound such a Muppet but if you don't ask you don't get. On my new Road bike I have two cogs on the front and 10 cogs at the back.
OK Can I use 10 gears all the way through on both front cogs? or am I suppose to use the big cog at the front with the smallest of cogs at the back, and the small cog at the front with the big cogs at the back? (kind of splitting the rear cog in half 1to5 - 6 to10)
The reason I ask is I was checking the gears with my bike on my Turbo trainer and the chain was on the big cog at the front and the big cog at the back and it looked really stressed.
Sorry to be such an idiot but at 49 and just taking up cycling (well road cycling anyway, I have been commuting and a member of CTC for couple of years) I have not got a clue, I have just joined a cycling club but would like to have some idea of what i'm suppose to be doing before I join them for a meeting. Thanks all. Lee

I have read a couple of items on this subject, although I do not use ear phones on a bike because I wear hearing aids, when the the wind passes the microphones I cant hear anything, if I take them out I cant hear anything.

Am I to put my bikes away and use the car? (I dont think so)

in fact its my choice I might try it and have some soft music on in the back ground, I use my Ipod every day for running, whats the difference?

Lee

I have just had a serious thought about considering attempting LEJOG in 18 months time when I’m 50. Day one of planning lol, and I cannot find a Memory-Map route to plot to even look at. I want to take the most direct route possible but any route would do.
Am I being lazy and should I plot my own? I’d much rather rely on experienced people who have done the route in the past, I just wanted to have a look for now but as I think about it I get excited I feel I have a goal to achieve I want to start preparing and training yesterday.
Can anyone help with a MM route LEJOG, you help or advice is appreciated, I did check end 2 end but my bike has not got wings lol.........Thank you

I would appreciate advice on what to use, a trailer or pannier system for touring next year? My wife and myself (although she doesn't know yet lol) will start with weekends to see how it goes. I have my touring bike and my wifes touring bike is at work waiting for Santa to pick it up and deliver it for xmas. I have a cargo trailer already and a basic pannier system as yet I havn't bought the wife anything as I imagine i'll be carrying most of our equipment initially. Help and advice appreciated Thank you.

Can anyone suggest a handle bar bag, the one I have droops forward when I put items in it. Thank you Lee

Yes squeaker it does, I just nipped round the car park I tried pushing and pulling at the same time and it always ends up, I'm either pushing or pulling, I just can't coordinate a full cycle, which feels like i'm still only using 1/2 the pedal rotaition, with your suggested tip I can what feels like a 3/4 rotation. I use my natural push without thinking about it, wipe my feet at the bottom (which is all I have to bear in mind), which in turn I found much easier to coordinate. It felt much better, thank you, I can't wait to cycle home after work now.

DaveP
Thank you for that you make a very good point, I do not intend touring as fast as I can. I feel a little foolish asking now your quite right of course. I intend touring at an average of 10 mph not 30mph.
I think I had in the back of my mind energy consumption, not lasting the distance and was thinking if there was a technique to help with that, but i'm now thinking touring allowes you to take your time, being able to stop and eat fuel rest etc can all be done at a liesure. I just wanted to say thank you for your reply and helping me think things through...............Cheers Lee

Thank you that is very helpful and to any new touring hopefulls I found this. I hope it helps thanks again.

Cycling is beautifully simple. Basically, we pedal and keep the bike heading in the right direction. Because pedalling is such an intrinsic part of cycling, it is important to optimise and perfect our pedalling action. Especially for beginners it is important to work on our pedal action.

These are some tips to Improving Our Pedalling Action

1. Make Sure the Saddle height is correct.

See: Correct saddle height and bike frame size

2. Make Sure You Pedal with the balls of your feet.

Beginners often make the mistake of pedalling with the middle of your foot (by the arch) or even their heel. This is an inefficient method of pedalling.

3. Watch the Pros peddalling.

It is a good idea to watch experienced professional cyclists pedal. You will get a feel for the fluidity of movement and correct position.

4. Pedal Both Down and Up.

It is important not just to pedal on the downstroke. It is also important to pedal on the upstroke. Thus ideally we will be pedalling for the 360 degrees of a pedal stroke and not just on the downward part. To do this we will need toe clips or the more popular clipless pedals.

5. Seek Professional Help.

A couple of years ago I paid about £130 to get a professional bike fit at cycle fit. As well as working on best position, they also took a video of my pedalling action and suggested a few minor changes.


6. Try Pedalling at A Higher Cadence.

Many beginners get used to pedalling at a low cadence, sometimes as low as 50 rpm. Try periods of pedalling at 100 rpm. In the beginning, it might feel difficult to maintain this high cadence if you are not used to it. But, you can gradually extend the time spent pedalling at this frequency. By pedalling at a higher frequency, you will be forced to give more attention to your pedalling action. It will help encourage a smoother pedalling acion.

7. Try Pedalling with one Leg.

An effective way to develop the ability to pedal for 360 degrees of the pedal action is to pedal with one leg at a time; this action instinctively teaches you to pedal on the upstroke.

8. Ride Fixed.

When riding a fixed you cannot freewheel, but, have to keep the legs spinning all the time. It helps create a smooth continuous pedalling action.

9. Practise on Rollers

By practising on rollers, you can help improve your pedalling action.

Optimal Cadence?
There is a great debate amongst cyclists about the optimal cadence rate. Some point to Lance Armstrong as evidence that a high cadence rate >100 is the most efficient. Other cyclists, prefer to pedal at a lower cadence 80-90. To a large extent it depends on the type of cycling you are doing. Time triallists will generally choose a lower cadence. Road racers will tend to ride at a higher cadence to make it easier to deal with changes in pace. Track Sprinters will need the ability to spin very quickly upto 150 rpm or higher

Hi
Here we go, the daft question. Last year having lost 3 stone in weight I started to cycle again, to work and back initially on my cheap ATB, then I bought a hybrid £400 and a few longer rides the longest being 50km.......I took my wife out on the Tissington trail for the day cycling and she loved it, now its all happening again with my wife, she saw what I achieved and she has started riding her cheap ATB to work and back, So I have already purchased her Hybrid for Christmas. Cant wait to get out together...........Anyway thats the background stuff now the question, we jump on our bikes and pedal like we did when we were kids just push down. I bought some cycling shoes for spin classes and use them on my bike (spd's or what ever you call them) now when I pedal, I push, pull, force my heals down trying to learn how to pedal. Thank you so much reading I anticipate your help....Lee

The daft question........How do you pedal?

I was cycling home last night and an Ice cream van overtook me at the same time started his music which made me jump out of my skin and caused a wobble, then the idiot cut me up and pulled in to park at his normal spot in front of me causing me to swerve out, thank goodness there was nothing coming the other way. In Germany the Ice cream van would have allowed me to continue first diffrent culture and Law coupled with heavy fines I know i was stationed out there for years.
Why can't there be a solid white line 1m from the curb (1m will even allow a cyclist to miss drains etc) on ALL roads for bikes, to be kept clear at all times (no vehicles at all) even if the road is not very wide, that way in order for a vehicle to pass it will have to slow down wait untill its safe to overtake then pass. that way I wont get clipped or blown. I guess i'm asking to much. Thank you for allowing me to have my rant, feel much better now.