Cycling UK Forum

Mick F wrote:Are any available?
Are manufacturers still trying to get the concept right?
Are they worth trying?

If they can get them good enough, the Age of the Puncture is over.

ncutler wrote:Preamble: I don't really like mudguards, but our local lanes have been so wet and muddy ( and worse: cow sh*tty ) that I visited H*****ds ( didn't dare go to a proper LBS in case I was laughed-at ) and purchased a pair.

Fitted ok, though I left the bolt through the front fork very loose as it needs to come off again and get shortened.

As it happened, as would be predicted by the Law of Universal Cussedness, yesterday was dry and the entire exercise so far pointless, but it was quite good fun searching out the odd puddle and slurry-stream for a change.

I noticed that if I took one hand off the bars the mudguard vibrated about. Putting both hands on stopped the vibration. This was quite consistent, and easily repeated. I then noticed that taking both hands off also stopped the vibration.

I assume that this has always been happening, but escaped notice without a rattly mudguard available as an amplifier.

Nick

PhilTheFish wrote:Hi all,

This is my first year commuting by bike to work (15 mile round trip). I've been doing it for around 3 months now. The first couple of weeks I struggled with so much as a mild breeze in my face but have now got over this.

One day a couple of weeks ago the wind was so bad that I was having to lean into a crosswind to keep me upright. I didn't enjoy that ride home and would endeavour to avoid it in the future.

My question is, when watching the weather forecast on TV the night before riding in, what sort of windspeeds would you class as too difficult (or dangerous) to ride in?

I know this will vary from one person to another but I'm looking for some sort of benchmark to work off.

Phil

bikepacker wrote:I have had a lot of success as RTR rep. What but I will not compromise on is the issue of cycling safety and that what this is all about.

Update:
Had another long day in the Inquiry and have yet to give my own evidence. John Franklin did give his and he was excellent. He got across the point how dangerous these grids will be to cyclists, despite a tough cross examination by the AONB barrister. It is a pity some prat at headquarters sort to give the other side a hand up without even discussing the issue with me.

Because I am still needed tomorrow at the Inquiry, I have had to put back getting my legal advice until Friday.

Ain't it amazing how quiet HQ goes at times like this. No; I suppose it is not really surprising as it don't enhance image and don't attract government funds.

fatboy wrote:Last night I decided to see if I could get my brakes working a bit bitter (try and lose some of the squeal and judder that the front gets when wet). So I set about cleaning, or trying to, the braking surface of the rim.

I used citrus degreaser which I rubbed on and rubbed on and then wiped off with a damp rag. Both of which came out as black as anything even though they don't look visually too bad. After about half an hour of this I gave up. My brakes were a bit better this morning but not a lot. Any tips please.....

rickangus wrote:Currently planning next year's touring break and was wondering whether it is better (meaning comfort and/or weight saving) to have:

Sprung saddle (Brooks) and solid seat post or

Unsprung (Brooks again) with suspension seat post (USE).

Intended use is for touring with flat bars.

Grateful for views.

Rickangus

simont wrote:I am attempting to upgrade/liven up my 20 year old Dawes Super Galaxy. I've got Shimano 8 spd bar end shifters (front non indexed), HG70 11-28 cassette, sram chain and ultegra (double)front and (long) rear mechs. I want to fit a compact chainset but all those of similar quality to the other components (Centaur, Ultegra, 105) are 10spd. I have been given conflicting advice (from reputable shops) about what will work. I've been told:
1. Any 10 spd chainset (campag, shimano) will work ok
2. Shimano will but campag won't
3. 10spd chainset won't work with 8 spd (because of the chain/chainset incompatibility)

I don't want either to upgrade to 9/10 spd because of expense or to fit a new triple chainset. My first choice would be the Campag Centaur Compact if it will work ok. Can anyone help please?

Simont
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vandjq wrote:Hi John,

Thanks for the prompt reply. That takes care of the stays, but how do I attach the top of the mudguard to the fork, unless you can get suspension forks with pre-drilled holes?

Vaughan

retrobloke wrote:Can anyone please help with a chainring compatability issue. Is it possible to put 9 speed MTB chainrings onto older 7/8 speed cranks without causing front deraullier problems (shifting incorrectly across 3 chainrings).
Any advice would be gratefully received

fatboy wrote:For father's day I got a present of a pair of Ron Hill cycling shorts, and they haven't lasted well at all. The first pair I got replaced after the stitching in the pad came adrift after a couple of months. The second pair only lasted one day! So I got my money back and bought a pair of Altura shorts instead.

As a general note about Ron Hill kit. It used to last for years. I have pairs of Ron Hill tracksters from the early nineties which are still going strong. The new ones that I got in the early two thousands have all gone to holes. Running shorts that I have had haven't lasted well. So here we have a once good quality company now pedalling poor quality stuff. AVOID!

SP wrote:Could anyone give advice regarding comparison between a conventional steel frame tourer such as the Galaxy and Dahon's folding tourer (Speed D7) - the gear range seems good on the folder and I like the idea of being able to take the bike into a B&B overnight rather than hope it was still outside in the morning (likewise in the evening at work).

Is a folder like this really up to loaded long distance service?

andyh2 wrote:OK I had no problems fitting 130 wheel into my 126 drop out steel frame.

I'm soon to get a 135 drop out steel frame. I'm assuming that being only an extra 1mm difference the 135 drop out frame will accept being squeezed down to accommodate 130 wheel.

Is my assumption correct or is reducing drop out width problematic compared to widening it?