Cycling UK Forum

omeone did notice, the pannier police, four word symmetry is against the inside left leg. "Painful" said Edward.Reohn2 carefully counted, and horror of horrors there were indeed the wrong number of legs, and words, too!

Life would never ever become more cycling-orientated, unlessreohn2 wrote:
My head hurts
, "but why", asked Edward, "its the third leg tapping". "Same old story!" shouted the hamster. "All squirrels and rabbits with fluffy tails and malicious inductive hyperventilation causes regular Campag." "So does All-Bran!" shouted Herman Munster, shouted the hamster from his wheel. The trouble was, the squeaky wheel was contaminated with eclipse oil from the BBC gushbag, and BBC controller was upside down masquerading as a ITV employee with a Dawes Kingpin which had the leather saddle adjusted for maximum agony by tightening the bullock strangulation mech ten clicks on his sore throbbing thumb, but he couldn't account for his whereabouts on the big wheel until Fred Trueman appeared, to rub the umpire up the off side leg.

"Egad!" cried Rumpelstiltskin, T'spinnin wheels squeakin'." The trouble was the hamster afterall!" A spot of marmalade on the toast dripped off

windmiller

Sweep wrote:
windmiller wrote:Was just reading about the superiority of the Kingpin compared to the raleigh 20 shopper.
Nice bike.

Do you have a link/references?

Not sure which one it was but here are some links

https://raleightwenty.webs.com/thedaweskingpin.htm

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=37410

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw_R0Snasjc

Carlton green

Sweep wrote:
windmiller wrote:Was just reading about the superiority of the Kingpin compared to the raleigh 20 shopper.
Nice bike.

Do you have a link/references?

I hope that at some point some links are posted. From what little I understand of it the Raleigh used a lot of non-standard components whereas the Dawes used both standard (fit) and better quality parts. For what it’s worth the Dawes comes in both folding and non folding versions. If I had one then I think that I’d want alloy rims (rather than the original steel ones) but I anticipate that they are hard to find in that size and spoke hole number.

I love this thread, it’s so good to see that real cyclists can and do ride a very wide variety of bikes.

Sweep

windmiller wrote:Was just reading about the superiority of the Kingpin compared to the raleigh 20 shopper.
Nice bike.

Do you have a link/references?

windmiller

rjb wrote:Latest incarnation of my 1976 Dawes Kingpin. 3 speed sturmey dynohub. 500A wheels replaced by 20" 406 wheels which meant i had to manufacture some drop bolts to lower the brakes. Steel seatpin replaced by an alloy one. Original chainset replaced by Stronglight cranks cut down to 150mm. Gearing lowered to a more sensible level by changing the rear sprocket from 16 to 19 teeth. Lighting fitted using a salvaged B&M lumotec front light in which the electronics had failed. I rewired the led only to a simple bridge rectifier using 4 diodes taped with green insulating tape around the rear carrier leg. This then supplies the 1 Farad capacitor,( glued to the back of the rear led bracket ) salvaged from the front light which acts as a standlight keeping the rear led flashing for a good 10 minutes even after only 1 minute of riding if stationary. The lighting load means the dynamo runs at 4volts ac and after rectification it drops to 3.2v dc meaning i could use an off the shelf rear led with the battery compartment cut off and the dc supply cable soldered directly to the battery terminals. I kept it simple by not fitting a switch so the lights are on all the time, to turn them off i could just remove one of the leads from the dynohub if necessary. The lights do have a low speed flicker but soon disapppears as speed picks up and is not a problem. I suspect this would be less of a problem with a bottle dynamo which spins faster.

heres a photo of a previous incarnation viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3832&p=379088&hilit=kingpin#p379088

and as it is now. Weighs 14.3 Kg

DSCF0012.JPGDSCF0014.JPGDSCF0015.JPG

Was just reading about the superiority of the Kingpin compared to the raleigh 20 shopper.
Nice bike.

rjb

So I am very happy with my 14.3 kg kingpin over 40 years old now, with stainless mudguards, sturmey dynohub lighting and a rear rack plus frame pump and tool bag.

I would have expected a modern bike to be a lot lighter.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3832&start=1590#p1395829

rjb

Latest incarnation of my 1976 Dawes Kingpin. 3 speed sturmey dynohub. 500A wheels replaced by 20" 406 wheels which meant i had to manufacture some drop bolts to lower the brakes. Steel seatpin replaced by an alloy one. Original chainset replaced by Stronglight cranks cut down to 150mm. Gearing lowered to a more sensible level by changing the rear sprocket from 16 to 19 teeth. Lighting fitted using a salvaged B&M lumotec front light in which the electronics had failed. I rewired the led only to a simple bridge rectifier using 4 diodes taped with green insulating tape around the rear carrier leg. This then supplies the 1 Farad capacitor,( glued to the back of the rear led bracket ) salvaged from the front light which acts as a standlight keeping the rear led flashing for a good 10 minutes even after only 1 minute of riding if stationary. The lighting load means the dynamo runs at 4volts ac and after rectification it drops to 3.2v dc meaning i could use an off the shelf rear led with the battery compartment cut off and the dc supply cable soldered directly to the battery terminals. I kept it simple by not fitting a switch so the lights are on all the time, to turn them off i could just remove one of the leads from the dynohub if necessary. The lights do have a low speed flicker but soon disapppears as speed picks up and is not a problem. I suspect this would be less of a problem with a bottle dynamo which spins faster.

heres a photo of a previous incarnation viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3832&p=379088&hilit=kingpin#p379088

and as it is now. Weighs 14.3 Kg

rjb

Another option is to look out for an old Dawes Kingpin or Raleigh twenty. Can be found for not a lot on local ads. Can provide hours of entertainment restoring them and they are very reliable with the 3 speed sturmey hubs. Fold not as good as current models but look at the saving you are making and the enjoyment of recycling an old bike. BTW i am verry happy with both my 40 year old machines, i have a Kingpin and a twenty which i use regularly.

rjb

Couple of things prompted this switch. I changed the wheels on my Dawes Kingpin from 440 to 406 as tyres in 440 size are getting difficult to find and virtually not much choice. This has lowered the bottom bracket so shorter cranks compensate for this and makes a better fold and I wanted to try them. I am happy to spin the cranks not a pusher of high gears and I am 5'6".
I am not going far on them round trips of 20 miles at most but I find I am riding it more as I like the ride.

Short cranks seem to be popular with recumbent riders so hoping for some feedback.

rjb

My 1980 Raleigh 20 stowaway. Found abandonded in a works cycle shed by a fellow member and passed my way. The front wheel had been removed and replaced the wrong way around meaning the cone had self tightened. Fortunately not to the point of destruction although i couldn't turn the axle by hand. Ive put a more comfortable saddle on in place of the sprung original, given everything a good clean and adjustment and it makes a nice run around for local rides. Anything more serious will need the original Raleigh Record whitewall tyres to be replaced. The chrome and mudguards are in very good condition considering its age, i can only assume its been stored inside a garage for a long time in the past. The twist grip for the 3 speed is a delight and a lot more comfortable than the 3 speed sturmey trigger.

It goes nicely with my folding Dawes Kingpin so me and SWMBO can go for local jaunts together or take them both in the car without the Tandem for a change. Weight wise its 15.1 Kg

rjb

Brucey wrote:if you take a Raleigh Twenty, fit better gears/wheels and weld a crossbar in, you will come fairly close to the minivelo riding experience.

cheers

or a dawes kingpin. https://hadland.wordpress.com/2012/06/2 ... gpin-mkiv/

SA_SA_SA

Their seems quite a bit of empty space in the middle of such bikes when folded hence I did.t consider that. The kingpin was so bulky avoiding the chain would seem worth it,,,

The Dahon curve always seemed to ignore its one inherent advantage over a Brompton (other than price and fat tyres): it has no chain tensioner thus could have a totally enclosed chaincase....

mjr

SA_SA_SA wrote:TERN/DAHON Style folders: why do they fold with chain outside

Because it results in a smaller fold. The hinge is behind the leading edge of the chainring, plus they don't have to use a double hinge to clear the chainring. I think most folding bikes have folded with the chain outside, including the very widespread Dawes Kingpin and Raleigh Twenty.

If I remember correctly, as well as smaller wheels reducing the fold size, Bromptons use the front hinge to enable the front wheel to protect the chainring a bit, but the chainring still sticks out beyond the rear hinge, so you're still not excused from bagging the bike on buses.

rjb

I'm not too concerned, after all I can still get tyres for my 1960's Dawes Kingpin and they are 500A. (20" 440 in new money

) so i am confident they will be around a long time and outlast me.

Brucey

I'd just fit the spacer and live with the fact that the wheel only goes in and out with the tyre a bit soft. Everything else is complicated/expensive/makes more problems.

BTW some of the parts that suffer with no mudguards

-FD seizes up
- seat pin seizes
- rear brake seizes
- lower race of headset gets knackered
- BB sees more crud than normal
- pedals see more crud than normal
- chain gets dirtier at about x5 the rate
- tie rod nut and kingpin on separable moultons goes rusty
- all the space frame tubes get covered in mud and are fiddly to clean
- front suspension links get dirtier
- front suspension plunger gets covered in mud (remember APB models have a rubber boot but not all TSRs do)
- rear suspension parts (including URT bushing) get covered in crud from all directions

you gotta love cleaning/maintaining your moulton to run without mudguards in the weather....

FWIW if your rear mudguard were fitted properly and you had a proper length front mudflap everything would stay a lot cleaner.

Most moultons have slotted dropouts so that the frames are versatile and can run an IGH without a tensioner.

cheers

Cycling UK Forum

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