Cycling UK Forum

Hi

Thought of the Western Isles, train to Oban ferry to Barra, ferry to Eriskay then South uist, Benbeccula to North Uist ferry to Harris and lewis finishing in Stornoway. Form there you get the ferry to Ullapool with a choice of using the regular bike bus back to inverness or if you want ride to inverness the following day(s). The last train back to either Glasgow or Edinburgh can be done in a day from Stornoway.

If there are many of you I would be careful of trains not only is the problem of booking bikes on there might be a problem of the numbers as some services will only take a few bikes at a time. Destinations with several trains a day are preferable.

So, I'm back! I cycled in Scotland for 12 days, leaving one day for walking around Edinburgh where I stayed at my friend's place. In total I rode 1100 km, with a daily distance of 100-110 km (62-68 miles) on most days. The shortest distance was I think 30 miles (a day with hiking in Quiraing on the Isle of Skye and a bus ride to Dornie), the longest 81 miles (Shieldaig to Ullapool). As planned (and suggested by some of you), I skipped some parts by bus or train.

I really loved Scotland! The scenery was wonderful and the people so nice. I even had 2 days without rain, which is 2 more than I expected I liked the West Highland Way a lot, the parts that I did were mostly "cycleable", and what surprised me, there were very few people there. Between Bridge of Orchy and Glencoe I didn't see a soul (only a tent:), between Kinlochmore and Fort William - only two hikers and some MTB cyclists. The only really difficult part was the short climb just after Kinlochmore, where I forgot there was an asphalt road that rejoins with the path. Oh well. I took the path instead and had to pull my loaded bike on stony stairs for some 1.5 h. But it was still fun At least my upper body had some training too, not only legs

I was surprised by how short the climbs were, way easier than what I expected. I'm not strong, so after reading your comments I was afraid I would curse myself for having planned such a route, but actually I climbed all the hills with a big smile on my face. The scenery was so nice that it was a pleasure to ride up the hills. Unfortunately I wasn't very lucky with the weather on the Applecross Pass road, extremely foggy. But the mist was also cool, it looked very spooky! The only road which made me really tired was the short stretch along the coast between Applecross and Shieldaig - constant, never ending series of short climbs and descents, very steep, like a saw blade. It was way more exhausting than the Applecross Pass itself, so even though I only did 104 km that day, it was the toughest day. The road across the Craingorms National Park was great, with very nice views and little traffic.

Many of you suggested me going to the Isle of Mull instead of Skye. I liked Skye a lot, particularly the road between Sligachan and Dunvegan as well as Quiraing. Road A87 was pretty busy indeed, and on the way back I took a bus to avoid it. I also loved the road to the Isle of Skye - from Fort William to Mallaig, so picturesque!

Thanks a lot again for all the comments, much appreciated! If you want, here's a link to my gallery (212 pictures):
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 26d1279590

All of that route is scenic, though some bits busier than others - the road from Glasgow to Fort William is probably the worst. Public transport is limited but may therefore make your choices easier. Options are:

Train from Glasgow to Fortwilliam or on to Mallaig. It's a spectacular train journey, and the train trundles along quite slowly, giving you plenty of time to enjoy it.
Train from Inverness to Edinburgh - the northern part of the line as far as Perth is also very scenic, and near Edinburgh you get to go over the Forth Bridge.
Train from Lairg to Inverness.
There is also the Bike Bus between Durness and Inverness which runs once a day - it travels down the west to Ullapool and then across to Inverness.

With all of these you will have to book your bike space in advance. There may be some other bus services that take bikes too.

At this time of year the days are long, giving you plenty of cycling time if you have the legs for it. Have a great time - just watch out for midgies and kamikaze sheep. If there are two or three sheep on the same side of the road they are likely to stay there, but if there are some on each side, as sure as anything one will leap across at the last second to join the others. I learnt to drive in the highlands and this was one of the many useful tips my father gave me.

Options for return to Oban:

a) Ride back.
Not really feasible if all the time you have is a week. The shortest route is Tarbert - Uig ferry, ride across Skye, ferry Armadale to Mallaig, ride to Lochaline, ferry to Mull, ferry Craignure to Oban. There's also the Kilchoan - Tobermory ferry, that works out about 5 miles further, or Corran ferry & Connel bridge (not via Mull) that's about 8 miles further than Tobermory.

b) ferry to Stornoway to Ullapool, ride to Inverness, train

c) ferry Tarbert - Uig, ride to Armadale, ferry to Mallaig, train

d) ferry Tarbert - Uig, ride to Kyle, train

e) ferry to Stornoway to Ullapool, Highland bike bus via Ullapool/Durness to Inverness, train
http://www.inverness-durness-highland-bike-bus.co.uk/
May be a bit late to book this.

Whatever, you'll probably need to investigate train timetables.

Note that there is a bike bus service that runs between Durness and Inverness via Lochinver and Ullapool - it may help your planning.

http://www.inverness-durness-highland-bike-bus.co.uk/

Radomir, the route looks good. I sympathise with your dilemma. The problem that all cycle tourists face; what to leave out. The answer of course is to come back in 2016.

Cape Wrath is one of those Iconic headlands that people feel the need to visit. It's one of the last few areas of wilderness left in the UK. You should try to fit it in if you can, especially if the weather is good. One possibility is to leave the bikes at Durness or on the far side of the ferry crossing and use the Minibus service that runs between the ferry and the lighthouse. That would probably save you half a day. Unfortunately I don't know of any hostel accommodation within half a days ride going south. The hostel at Inchnadamp (approx 70 miles) is about the closest that I know of. Another Idea, as I mentioned previously, is to use the bus between Durness and Ullapool.

In addition to Cape Wrath, if you have time, go the few extra miles from Kilchoan to visit the Lighthouse on Ardnamurchan, before getting the ferry to Tobermory

I will send you some links for accommodation etc.

You could cut out some of the mileage if you use the bike bus that runs from Inverness to Durness. It stops at Ullapool so you could use it to get to Durness.
This is the website
http://www.inverness-durness-highland-bike-bus.co.uk/

I would however suggest you e-mail the company first just to make sure the bus will run next year and to check the dates it will run as it is seasonal.

Apologies for delay in replying but there's rather a lot to digest. I'll deal with the route in sections in anticlockwise direction, as you've plotted it.

Edinburgh to Fort William and Great Glen

I'm not familiar with this route to Fort William and so I can't comment in detail. It's a route, in part, taken by a lot of End to Enders (Land's End to John-O-Groats) perhaps someone else may comment. You are obviously keen to cycle the Great Glen but unless you need to visit FW for accommodation or shopping, I would give the town a miss and start at Spean Bridge. I see you are using the Great Glen Way. This is off road and I'm not sure if the surface is suitable for the bikes you have. Once again others may have more experience than me. I cycled the A82 and I didn't have a problem although I did it on a Sunday morning and started early. The B862 from Fort Augustus is excellent as I said before.

Inverness to Durness

Looks fine. There are one or two unnecessary diversions notably at Alness (No need to enter the town) and at Ardgay where your route appears to go via the YH at Culrain, which I believe is now closed, and uses the footbridge over the railway at Invershin to regain the main road.. Stay on the main road, A836 to Lairg. Incidentally your route goes past the Crask Inn. “The Crask” is, I believe, up for sale but you should aim to spend the night there if you can. Especially if you like whisky!

Durness to Ullapool

Looks fine. Incidentally If you are pushed for time there is a daily bus service between Durness and Inverness that stops at Ullapool. If you give them 24hs notice they will hitch up a bike trailer.
http://www.decoaches.co.uk/services/
It's summer only Service No804

Ullapool to Skye

If you can, use the A832 via Poolewe and Gairloch to Kinlochewe. It's known as the Destitution Road. One of several in Scotland built by victims of the famine. It's a great ride and will be less busy than the alternative. Bealach-Na-Bà is a must if you have the time. There are YH at Ullapool, Gairloch. and Torridon.

Skye

The off road route along Glen Sligachan will not be possible on your bikes.

Malaig to Edinburgh

The off road section alongside Loch Shiel just after Glenfinnan I do not think is doable on road bikes. Either use the A862 alongside Loch Eil or A861 via Glen Uig and Salen.The A82 through Glen Coe and across Rannoch Moor is not very cycle friendly also you are planning on using the West Highland Way which is primarily a walking route and parts of which would be quite hard on a bike. The off road section between Lix Tol and Callender along GlenOgle aand Stathyre is OK I think.

You will need to make your own decisions as to what to leave out . You could certainly use the train to get out of Edinburgh. As you say Dalwhinnie or Pitlochrie would save a day or two.. I think if I were you I would be tempted to end my tour at Oban, perhaps going via Mull, and use the train to return to Edinburgh.

Here is Scotrail site. http://www.scotrail.co.uk/

East coast trains are recommended for booking as they allow you to make bike reservations on line. http://www.eastcoast.co.uk/

With regards to the best time. Bear in mind what I said previously. If you have total freedom of choice then I would choose June.

Your sleeper choice (from London Euston) is;
to Glasgow Central then train to Oban (latter is bargain of century, £10.49 single for lovely 3hr trip)

or, for example, returning from Stornoway, ferry to Ullapool then bus with bike trailer to Inverness (less than a tenner).

You will have missed the sleeper bargains (released 12 weeks ahead) but the Caledonian Sleeper website is quite good for displaying prices. I failed to see how to book my bike online (if, indeed, it's possible) but did it all by phone. Booking the bike is essential (and free)!!

Recommend Phillips Red Map of the Outer Hebrides: one map (rather than 6 or more OS maps) just about enough detail. As mentioned, there aren't many roads. Your choice will be East or West in some cases (eg Barra and Harris) but otherwise one road!

I can't answer about your bike but managed fine on my hybrid with 32mm Marathons. The roads are much better than here in Essex.

And beg, steal, borrow or buy, Richard Barrett's "Cycling in the Hebrides", it's got all the info you need.

I'd be envious but I'll be on Lewis myself next week

Have fun!

Edited to add: sorry, after re-reading OP I'm not sure how you were planning to get to Glasgow, sleeper wasn't actually mentioned!

Thanks for your help so far. I would have preferred the Inverness to Glasgow train route but on the date of travel, there is a bus replacement service from Perth onwards and i've been told in no uncertian terms that you can't take a bike on a bus!

My mate's bike is a Dawes Galaxy so it would be inconvenient to break it down and carry it onto the train at inverness as luggage.

The purpose of my post was to get a firm steer one way or the other. My riding buddy was intent on blagging his way on to the train but the swathe of opinion against the "blagging" option has benen very useful in dissuading him. We will now concentrate on option two which is to leave the bike on the trailer that's bringing us, and others, down from Ullapool and accept their offer to load the bike on to their car at Oban. My mate can pick it up later but will have to take a taxi home from Liverpool! Pity, we were looking forward to riding home from the station.

I appreciate receiving all of your responses.

Cheers! Seems like this topic comes up every year, and there is always doubt about this bus service.

My alternative was to cycle to Garve, looks like a good climb of about 500m (my cycle mates may see this differently, though)

pau1ine wrote:Re getting back: if you get the ferry to Ullapool, there is a bus service with a bike trailer which will get you & bike to Inverness station at a very reasonable cost.
There's some discussion of it here : http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=46234&start=15 but I can confirm that last year DE coaches were running the service and seem to be running again this summer to end sept see http://www.decoaches.co.uk/timetables/service%20804.pdf. In my opinion that road was best seen from the front seat of the bus rather than from the bike saddle.

Thanks Pau1ine, great to hear from you

That's really useful info about the bus/ bike trailer, I shall follow that up.

It's a wonderful route to tour!
We've done variations twice - first B&B then camping last year.

Being able to just roll up and hop on ferry is great - unlike cars which need to book in the summer.

Re getting back: if you get the ferry to Ullapool, there is a bus service with a bike trailer which will get you & bike to Inverness station at a very reasonable cost.
There's some discussion of it here : http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=46234&start=15 but I can confirm that last year DE coaches were running the service and seem to be running again this summer to end sept see http://www.decoaches.co.uk/timetables/service%20804.pdf. In my opinion that road was best seen from the front seat of the bus rather than from the bike saddle.

joegallus wrote:I have been doing a bit of thinking on this since your initial post sparked me off. I am aiming for next May or September (to avoid the midges). It seems like the big logistical challenge, if going by car, is getting back to Oban from Stornoway. The options seem to be; reverse the route and get the ferry back from Lochboisdale (roughly 220 miles and 7500 ft of ascent), or Ferry from Tarbet to Skye and back from there (330 miles and 13,000 ft ascent), or ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool and back from there. I have to say I am attracted to the last option, i.e. cycling from Ullapool to Inverness and back down via the Great Glen. Roughly 300 miles and 12,000ft of ascent. Decisions/decisions eh?

Anyone able to offer a comment on these routes?

Hi again Joe

Just found out my Cycling in the Hebrides book has been dispatched, yay!

Like you, I've been sifting through all the options for how to get back. Without car, my choice for getting to a railway seems to be Oban, Mallaig, Kyle of Lochalsh or Inverness. You're a bit ahead of me as I was waiting for the book to see if Richard makes any suggestions. If not then I was going to post here.

Have you been using BikeHike for the distance/ cumulative climb estimates? Ullapool to Inverness is 57 miles and about 3000ft but I think the road might be rather fast/ busy for me, and I may be too nik-nakked to manage even another 100ft climb by the time I reach Stornoway! Also I will have a time limit if I'm only doing 40 miles a day max. Did I read somewhere here that the Outer Hebrides buses will take bikes? I was hoping I might get the bus from Stornoway back to Lochboisdale or Tarbet...

I've now got my annual leave booked so I'm going to look at a daily route plan and B&B options soon