Cycling UK Forum

I find the Lumicycle 10W HID (13deg bulb) just right off-road, but a bit much on the road, and I have to mask the top half of the beam with my hand every time a car comes along, otherwise drivers tend to swerve into the ditch thinking something huge is coming along. When winching up a 1:6 at very few mph this can be really embarrassing - though the fact that they're obviously too dazzled to see where they're going is more worrying. I might try and make a hinged baffle a bit like a "barn door" on a theatre stage light.

Other than that, I think these lights are unspeakably fantastic - I've already bored the pants off Lumi themselves raving about how good I think they are. Even despite slight teething trouble, namely:

1) because the beam varies a bit between bulbs (not at all a problem in itself) the bolt that holds the quick-release heavy duty cam-lock bracket can come loose once you've twizzled the lamp sideways a couple of times to get the beam central. This is simple to fix, you take it off and put locktite on the thread.

2) the switches are up for on and down for off. Off-road, I find if I have to get out of the saddle, e.g. to open/shut a gate, I often accidentally switch these off when stray edges of goretex brush against the switches. For the HID lamp this is pretty bad cos it uses up the life of the bulb, which suffers more wear and tear from switching on than from duration of being on. SO.... I reversed the switches, and to prevent them being accidentally switched ON, I just leave the lamps unplugged.

Reversing the switch on the halogen lamp is child's play, but on the HID it involves some soldering and other malarky cos the switch is mounted on a PCB. Takes half an hour and needs to be done carefully, and of course if you mess it up, Lumi will understandably not be sympathetic. I haven't had any accidental switching on or off since I did it so I'm a smug bunny.

The LiIon battery seems to go on for ever - the HID lamp starts going noticeably more blue at about the three and a half to four hour mark. I haven't yet had it cut out to protect itself from over-discharge.

Another comment on the HID lamp - it's said to be equivalent to 40W halogen - some think that's a bit exaggerated, I think it's probably more like 25-30W, but either way, it's superb. Once your eyes get used to the colour, it doesn't look blue any more, but car headlights look pathetic and yellow.

Spending £300 odd and still having to do a bit tweaking might not be your cup of tea, but I still think it's ridiculously better than anything I've used before. I know there's the Cateye Stadium for double the brightness for the same price, but this is already plenty bright enough, and lasts a LOT longer, and as a system it's flexible - I got two extra halogen lamps so I take a 12W spot for the road (more humane to motorists), or the HID off-road, plus a 5W backup in either case.

Claire

A couple of questions for you what is your budget? Does that include the additional bits like a damn good lock and clothing etc? Will you be camping, B+B ing or hosteling as this varies what you will want to carry.

Lets us know and the help can be more specific. Bt the Way THe Dawes Galaxy and it higher priced brothers and susters are dirt cherap at the moment and good value for money.

Cheers

Marc

I think your chioce is narrowed down if you decide whether youwant drop handlebars or not. This would rule out most hybrids. Also if you are cycle camping you will almost certinly want front panniersso again it would be better to have those as standard. I alo feel that many people underestimate the ability of the average tourer off-road. it will cope with most stuff except rocky descents or deep mud. However if you want dropbars and a tourer with amountain bike pedigree you could consider the Dawes Sardar ; it may also fit you better if your'e not that tall.
HTH
Julia

Hi
If your not bothered about the seat post, first try soaking it with wd40 type stuff then heat up the steel tube with a paint stripper hot air gun (but not enough to strip the paint, obviously), then twist the post using some stillsons whilst holding the frame down firmly.
Otherwise try cutting off the bit of seat post you can see about 5mm above the steel tube, then slit the remaining bit left in the tube with a hacksaw blade in a padsaw, a laborious task but you get there in the end. Two slits opposite may be needed. If you leave 5 mm sticking out the top you can pull on this with some pliers or whatever. If its a mountain bike post with lots left in the tube you may not be able to do this though.
Another method is to attach a slide hammer to it but it depends on what tools youve got available.

Hi grant
Are you camping or staying in b&bs.You need to take with you all the tools and spare parts to repair your bike,spokes spare tubes oil and a spare tyre etc. Teach yourself a bit of bike maintenance it might save you a long push and will save you money in the long run, a cycle has very few moving parts and is not difficult to maintain .
Don,t forget suntan lotion waterproofs first aid kit and a few spare clothes.The rule is take what you need then everything else is a luxury and extra weight.
If you are camping then the list will go on if you are preparing your own food then you need a stove and utensils. i always camp you are not tied to where you stay and whether they have somewhere to keep your bike.Go out on a few training rides with all the gear you intend taking,if the route is hilly train on hilly ground.This will also give you an average distance you can expect to cover during the day.The more you prepare the more you will enjoy it.The most important thing is for you to enjoy every second of it.
Good luck

What is your personal view on the balance of the safety/health/risk compensation/energy extraction/rotational injuries arguments?

It's impossible to quantify the effects of myself and those around me taking a bit more care when I'm perceived to be more vulnerable. I'm sure there is an effect, it could be huge or tiny, we just don't know, so this factor does not play a large part in my decision whether or when to wear a helmet.

I think on balance the helmet probably does provide a small safety benefit and my decision when to wear it is almost totally one of discomfort versus risk. And since these two quantities are measured in totally different units, even if they were measurable, it's a chalk and cheese comparison that nobody other than the individual is qualified to comment upon. For example these last few mornings I have worn it, since it's been so cold I'd have wanted a hat anyway and with ice about the risk of the kind of fall in which a helmet might be useful is much greater. I also wear it always for mountain-biking, since falls are routine in that activity, even though it makes me sweat like a pig! On tour I'll wear it to go down an alpine pass, not to go up. It is fortunate that some of the conditions in which a helmet is more likely to be useful correspond with those in which it's less of a burden to wear.

My choice of when I wear a helmet provides a nice illustration of risk compensation. If helmets did not exist would I ride to work on icy mornings or take the train instead? The office is due to relocate, perhaps substituting my peaceful country lane commute with one of busy main roads. Shall I stop cycling to work altogether or wear a helmet?

My decreasing tendency to wear a helmet is also a bit political. I think every time a couch potato sees a cyclist go by in all the special clothes and helmet it helps to reassure them that cycling is a weird and rather hazardous sport that they don't even need to think about doing. And every time they see a regular bloke on a bike, it goes a little way toward breaking down that prejudice. I accordingly try to dress as normally as practicable whenever I am cycling as a means of local transport, and ride at a pace calculated not to raise a sweat, on a bike that does not require trouser-clips. So the lack of a helmet is just one part of my attempt to be someone that the bloke behind the wheel can identify with as a fellow human being, rather than an alien two-wheeled spaceman!

Another technique I use to negotiate a bit more room on the road is to wobble a bit. I have a mirror on the everyday bike, so I can time my wobbles to secure extra passing distance from cars when they are some distance behind and be back by the kerb when they actually pass. Because I do not look like a pro, but more like them, they seem to accept that a bit of wobbling is to be expected – if they were on a bike they would wobble too – and I have never once been hooted at whilst executing this manoeuvre. But it has often, I am sure, resulted in a car waiting behind that would have squeezed by me if I'd been out on my road bike and looking every inch the skilful and confident rider I reckon I actually am.

So I'm afraid there's nothing very scientific in this, just what works for me.

Chris:

You said a couple of posts above this one that you've stopped helmet wearing because of the heat issues. But I think elsewhere you said that since stopping wearing a helmet on your commute (and dressing more like a leisurely commuter than a keen sport cyclist) you feel safer because motorists give you a wider berth. So, if you were not troubled by the heat issues - if wearing a helmet did not cause discomfort - would you wear one or not? What is your personal view on the balance of the safety/health/risk compensation/energy extraction/rotational injuries arguments?

Regards

John

Re comment by Huge that Brooks looked hard - yes indeed. But the leather has some give, and the titanium rails also give, but under your bodyweight, not to the touch. I watched 2 brooks saddles in use last weekend, one with steel rails, one titanium, and the difference was visibly noticeable. The Brooks leather saddles normally need a breaking in period, but the titanium B17 seems to feel like an armchair from new - hence my original recommendation. Of course I'd advise a pair of good padded lycra shorts/bibshorts to give some protection against the unpadded leather, initially at least. And they do need washing daily to avoid problems.

i have gone months between rides and suffered no ill effects with the brooks once it and i had grown accustomed to oneanother! i think the leather does mould to your shape and allows the relevant part of the body to breathe while supporting the bones.

There is no left luggage at Alicante airport.

A mate of mine left his cardboard bike box propped up on stanes under one of the portacabins used by the car hire agencies - it was there 2 weeks later.

Why not take parcel tape & make a new box on your return - just visit any nearby supermarket

As well as a cyclist I also drive a car. I was driving my car one fine and sunny morning turning left to join a main road..I looked both right and left...nothing coming so I emerged...there was an almight bang and a bike rider landed on the bonnet of my car..he had been in a blind spot behind my door pillar and of course I didn't see him..It's not that I was negligent or knowingly pulled out in front of him..it was a complete accident...So the next time you are driving your car remember about blind spots around your vehicle

I used a padded bike bag last year. It protects the frame work from scratches and provides some protection. I removed the rear mech from its hanger and also put blocks of wood between the drop outs and drilled a hole through them to take the wheel skewers. Saying that, I think my bag was dropped as the 53T was bent over the 39T when I got back home. A colleague travelled the year before and didn't even bother putting the bike in anything. I believe the handlers assumed my bike was well protected so just threw it around, if they see it is poorly protected and valuable they may take a bit more care. By the way I travelled with BA, so it wasn't one of your budget airlines that damaged the bike.

I travelled with work colleagues last year from Geneva to Grenoble. I used the CTC recommended cycling insurance but I must make you aware of my error. The premium was about £25 for up to 10 days in Europe and the excess waiver was £5, foolishly I chose not to take the excess waiver and then had my bike damaged and luggage lost during the return flight. There are about 5 or 6 separate policies within the insurance and I could have been liable for £50 excess on each policy e.g. loss of money, clothes, damage to bike etc. Please take out the excess waiver. Another point is, don't use this insurance for the bike, it costs a fortune, use your household insurance to cover the bike, much cheaper. You may have to get an approved locking device but it is still cheaper than insuring the bike through your holiday insurance as it only covers for about 14 days unlike your house insurance that covers for 365 days.

Nasty ways-
Richard Ballentine (I think). recommended Tabsco sauce and water (strong) in a bike bottle and reckoned no dog if hit in the face with such a mix would ever come back for a second go!
Carry a decent hazel switch and use it!
Ride into it in the chest area- hard. It will move out of your way next time.

Nice ways.
Throw aniseed drops or dog crunchies into the verges.
Speak to the offending animal so that it gets to know you. Being wary of the Pit Bull etc.

hey, rick i was glad to see your post too. i was on amiodarone after the acute phase of my illness but stopped taking it when it gave me nasty side effects...thyroid problems, photosensitivity &tc. my GP and I agreed to save it for later when i might really need it. that did not go down well with the consultant! keep nthose wheels rolling and enjoy france. good to know too that someone else got it out of the blue...mine was eventually put down to a virus.