My wife struggles with standard tyre levers and as I have arthritis in my thumbs, I'm finding changing a tyre can be painful - any ideas / recommendations for something else that might help?
I see the TyreKey gets bad reviews here but was drawn to the Schwalbe levers, or ar they just another play on conventional levers. Any thoughts?
Graham
Search found 569 matches
- 5 Oct 2021, 11:45am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Tyre Levers
- Replies: 9
- Views: 894
- 4 Oct 2021, 8:37am
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: Front wheel motor - pros and cons
- Replies: 16
- Views: 1566
Re: Front wheel motor - pros and cons
I'm considering a very similar set-up as you - front wheel motor + Cytronex on a Dawes Audax - so would be very interested to hear what the outcome of your deliberations & (hopefully) conversion?Grandad wrote: ↑3 Oct 2021, 8:01pmI'm looking at the Cytronex motor and asked them if they used speed of current control. Their reply isWhich control system a bike manufacturer uses is down to them and their research.
Only by asking them which type of control system is used will you know that which is used.
It’s a patented unique design which does the job of the three sensors other manufacturers have to use.
What is the third sensor that they are referring to?
- 3 Oct 2021, 6:34pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: 26x1.25 road tyres
- Replies: 8
- Views: 531
Re: 26x1.25 road tyres
Thanks, there might be room at the rear for a slightly larger tyre but not the front.
I was asking as I couldn't find any Pasela's (which I have myself & like) but may now have found some, though with 2 to 4 weeks delivery!
I was asking as I couldn't find any Pasela's (which I have myself & like) but may now have found some, though with 2 to 4 weeks delivery!
- 3 Oct 2021, 3:35pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: 26x1.25 road tyres
- Replies: 8
- Views: 531
26x1.25 road tyres
Looking for recommendations + source of comparable tyres for my wife's Roberts bike to replace the Panaracer Pasela Tour Guard 26 x 1.25 (32-559) i.e. light but strong + kevlar (or equivalent) protection.
Graham
Graham
- 19 Sep 2021, 7:07pm
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: crank vs hub power
- Replies: 27
- Views: 3718
Re: crank vs hub power
So just to clarify - PAS (cadence) sensors are best for those with knee problems? I have no experience with Torque / bottom bracket drive but following a TKR on my left knee about five years ago converted my Trek 830 with a front hub kit, without which I'd no longer be cycling. I also have a thumb throttle too which helps pulling away i.e. removes the need for high torque force. I'm also now experiencing signifcant degredaton of my right knee which will soon need to be replaced.stodd wrote: ↑19 Sep 2021, 9:20am I agree with the comments about torque sensing above; quick start and 'natural' feel, but greater complexity and transmission wear. One advantage of cadence sensors is that they allow 'ghost' pedalling, keeping the pedals turning but without applying any effort. This can be really important for certain health issues, such as weak knees or diabetes. The max assist of a torque sensor system is typically around 300% of user input, leaving the user with 1/4 of the work to do; not much, but more than some people will be able to produce at the end of a tiring ride. I'm not sure why torque sensor bikes don't have a power setting to allow this, but I'm not aware of any that do.
The immediate power benefit of torque sensors for hill starts has been reduced (but not completely eliminated) by more recent cadence sensors that can kick in power more quickly, even just 1/4 crank revolution.
swscotland bentrider wrote: ↑15 Sep 2021, 8:07pm Rather than unpick all that has been said in other posts I'll relate my own experience. I am 72 and have cycled continuously since age 15. I think that background is relevant to what I experienced.
My first foray into electric was with a Giant bottom bracket motored hybrid style bike. Impressively powerful and enormous fun. But heavy. Whenever i rode above the 25kmh cut off point the slightest headwind or gradient slowed me and the motor smoothly took up the drive. I could hear the motor. The bike had some issues and was returned.
After fruitlessly looking for a bike in a shop I bought online - a Ribble CGR E. A rear hub motored bike.
I have been absolutely delighted with it. It has a lot less torque than the Giant but feels so much more like a conventional bike. I'm just back from three days in the NE Highlands and the bike was brilliant. My mates are lighter and fitter than me but the bike equalised us nicely. Very happy with my purchase. To an experienced / current cyclist there is more than enough power. I can ride into a light headwind at 27/28 kph easily, something that I couldn't do on the Giant.
So, my suggestion is decide what sort of cyclist are you at present. If you need the extra torque go for a bottom bracket motored bike but if you want assistance with hills and headwinds try a hub motored road bike.
Notwithstanding the success of the aforesaid conversion I'm considering an off-the-shelf ebike and had been looking at the Ribble range / maybe the CGR E and would be interested in any further more detailed comments regarding your experience with this bike, in particular: sizing, range, pulling away, changing power assistance, gear ratios, drops v straights, will it take mudgards, can the batteery be removed easily for charging, suitability for touring etc.? One thing I like about my converted bike is that the power control has x5 settings and can be operated without moving your hands off the bars and can therefore easily finesse my needs and requirements, it seems the downtube button could be more awkward by comparison?
Graham
- 31 Aug 2021, 4:34pm
- Forum: Helmets & helmet discussion
- Topic: Which Women's Helmet?
- Replies: 4
- Views: 5251
Re: Which Women's Helmet?
Thanks for the comments.
FYI she went to the LBS and now has a rather nice women's Giro Agilis helmet + MIPS.
Graham
FYI she went to the LBS and now has a rather nice women's Giro Agilis helmet + MIPS.
Graham
- 30 Aug 2021, 5:27pm
- Forum: Helmets & helmet discussion
- Topic: Which Women's Helmet?
- Replies: 4
- Views: 5251
Which Women's Helmet?
The choice of helmets is frankly bewildering.
My wife is looking for a replacement helmet - budget £60 to £90, maybe MIPS, in a small size. From personal experience can anyone provide any ideas of what might fit the bill? She currently uses a 10-year old Specialised with a front peak, which she seems to like for some reason, though says it's no longer necessary,
Thanks
My wife is looking for a replacement helmet - budget £60 to £90, maybe MIPS, in a small size. From personal experience can anyone provide any ideas of what might fit the bill? She currently uses a 10-year old Specialised with a front peak, which she seems to like for some reason, though says it's no longer necessary,
Thanks
- 16 Aug 2021, 3:09pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Cycle routes North Somerset
- Replies: 12
- Views: 729
Re: Cycle routes North Somerset
Many thanks for all the thoughts which provide lots of good ideas that I need to research a bit further.
We did the the Twin Tunnels ride in 2013, I believe not long after opening and really enjoyed it.
Graham
We did the the Twin Tunnels ride in 2013, I believe not long after opening and really enjoyed it.
Graham
- 15 Aug 2021, 5:21pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Cycle routes North Somerset
- Replies: 12
- Views: 729
Cycle routes North Somerset
My wife and I will be in the area of Chew Valley Lake later this week for a couple of weeks - babysitting for our daughter + hopefully with time off for good behaviour, we'd like to do some cycling in the area and would appreciate any thoughts on suitable routes for a couple of old codgers. I'm riding a E-converted Trek MTB and my wife's on a Roberts road bike and am looking for rides up to 30 miles - we can take the bikes on the car so have some flexibility where we can start if necessary.
A couple of possibilities spring to mind:
1. The Strawberry Line - is the surface of this OK for a road bike + how could we extend a ride around this route?
2. The Bath to Bristol cycle path looks interesting - is it possible to leave the car at the Newbridge park and ride in Bath for this purpose?
Graham
A couple of possibilities spring to mind:
1. The Strawberry Line - is the surface of this OK for a road bike + how could we extend a ride around this route?
2. The Bath to Bristol cycle path looks interesting - is it possible to leave the car at the Newbridge park and ride in Bath for this purpose?
Graham
- 30 Jul 2021, 1:41pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Kool Stop Break Pads
- Replies: 20
- Views: 1223
Re: Kool Stop Break Pads
Many thanks, just ordered some salmon pads.
- 30 Jul 2021, 9:26am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Kool Stop Break Pads
- Replies: 20
- Views: 1223
Kool Stop Break Pads
I have been using Eagle 2 Kool Stop brake pads on my Trek 830 converted to a road Ebike for a while and just wanted to order some replacements and am beweildered by the choices now available - what are the differences?
The bike currently has the orginal Shimano cantilever brakes (Ergo I think) fitted with Kool Stop black blocks which are OK but I'm wondering if one of the other compounds might be better e.g. salmon pink, whatever that is, hopefully not salmon?
Graham
The bike currently has the orginal Shimano cantilever brakes (Ergo I think) fitted with Kool Stop black blocks which are OK but I'm wondering if one of the other compounds might be better e.g. salmon pink, whatever that is, hopefully not salmon?
Graham
- 29 Jul 2021, 3:05pm
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: Power Problem
- Replies: 9
- Views: 746
Re: Power Problem
Yes the Forum usually comes up trumps and is a great facitily.
The Dawes Audax was my main bike until my TKR in 2017 at which time as I wasn't too impressed with the build quality etc. of eBikes so converted my trusty old MTB which has been excellent. However, I do miss a lighter / faster bike and as things have moved on since then was considering maybe something off the shelf, though I've not ruled out converting the Dawes Galaxy yet. At the time conversion options for such bikes were limited and rather messy and of limited range.
Because of my knees with the MTB conversion which has a 17Ah battery, I generally have to ride somewhere between low and mid-range settings all the time + full power for hills. From experience this gives me about 40 to 50 miles per charge, which is what I'd want if I converted the Dawes. When I last looked at this I couldn't get the range I wanted + as this is a lighter Audax version of the Dawes with maximium 700x28c wheels / tyres suitable were unavailable. Though I'm OK with most DIY on bikes I also subscribe to the KISS principal, which points towards front wheel conversion which for this bike is maybe not best + yes controls were not really suitable for drops.
Notwithstanding, things have obviously moved on & I have an open mind.
Graham
The Dawes Audax was my main bike until my TKR in 2017 at which time as I wasn't too impressed with the build quality etc. of eBikes so converted my trusty old MTB which has been excellent. However, I do miss a lighter / faster bike and as things have moved on since then was considering maybe something off the shelf, though I've not ruled out converting the Dawes Galaxy yet. At the time conversion options for such bikes were limited and rather messy and of limited range.
Because of my knees with the MTB conversion which has a 17Ah battery, I generally have to ride somewhere between low and mid-range settings all the time + full power for hills. From experience this gives me about 40 to 50 miles per charge, which is what I'd want if I converted the Dawes. When I last looked at this I couldn't get the range I wanted + as this is a lighter Audax version of the Dawes with maximium 700x28c wheels / tyres suitable were unavailable. Though I'm OK with most DIY on bikes I also subscribe to the KISS principal, which points towards front wheel conversion which for this bike is maybe not best + yes controls were not really suitable for drops.
Notwithstanding, things have obviously moved on & I have an open mind.
Graham
- 28 Jul 2021, 5:06pm
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: Power Problem
- Replies: 9
- Views: 746
Re: Power Problem
I was going to say "I have already done this a number of times but can find nothing wrong" which is true but did go back just one more time and guess what - one of the very fine pins on the LCD cable connector was bent and missing its hole, doh!!! I'm still not sure how I (a) did this and (b) missed if after inspecting a number of times, obviously not as meticulous as I need to be.
I am very grateful to everyone's thoughts and delighted to get this fixed, with one TKR and probably another on the way the E-conversion of this bike has saved my cycling. I'd really like to convert my Dawes Audax and get it back on the road but never really found an acceptable kit for such a bike with drops. Next step probably has to be a bespoke e-bike?
Graham
- 28 Jul 2021, 12:06pm
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: Power Problem
- Replies: 9
- Views: 746
- 28 Jul 2021, 11:54am
- Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
- Topic: Power Problem
- Replies: 9
- Views: 746
Power Problem
Following a TKR operation in 2017 I converted my Trek MTB 830 to an E-Bike using Cyclotricity kit, which has been exceelnt and literally kept me on the road since then viewtopic.php?f=55&t=116387 - though my right knee is now going too!
My trusty 1990 bike has been giving me some rear brake problems recently and to get better access to the brakes this week I needed to disconnect the two main E-Bike cables - one connecting the rear control box to the LCD screen on the handlebars (see pictures attached) and the other to the front hub motor. Before doing this I'd just ridden up the road to check the brakes + the battery was fully charged and the bike was fine (E-bike wise).
However, after finishing work on the brakes I reconnected both the said cables and now the motor doesn't work anymore and shows an empty battery on the LCD, though the charger confrims it's fully charged + all the connector pins are in good order and each part of the connectors are firmly pushed together.
This is litterally the first time I've done anything to the E-conversion since 2017 and was meticulous about handling the connectors etc. so find this situation rather baffling. I spoke to Cyclotricity yesterday and they've suggested that I need a new £43.50 LCD cable from the control box, which I find bizarre.
Does this sound plausible and if not are there any other ideas about what might have gone wrong?
Graham
My trusty 1990 bike has been giving me some rear brake problems recently and to get better access to the brakes this week I needed to disconnect the two main E-Bike cables - one connecting the rear control box to the LCD screen on the handlebars (see pictures attached) and the other to the front hub motor. Before doing this I'd just ridden up the road to check the brakes + the battery was fully charged and the bike was fine (E-bike wise).
However, after finishing work on the brakes I reconnected both the said cables and now the motor doesn't work anymore and shows an empty battery on the LCD, though the charger confrims it's fully charged + all the connector pins are in good order and each part of the connectors are firmly pushed together.
This is litterally the first time I've done anything to the E-conversion since 2017 and was meticulous about handling the connectors etc. so find this situation rather baffling. I spoke to Cyclotricity yesterday and they've suggested that I need a new £43.50 LCD cable from the control box, which I find bizarre.
Does this sound plausible and if not are there any other ideas about what might have gone wrong?
Graham