Thank you all, and it does seem like a limited market. I was reading last night about chain tensioners and it could be that that is the way to go which will also give flexibility if I want to get rid of the IGH. I am considering a Shimano Nexus or Alfine 8 hub. My main reason is single gear control and ability to change while stationary. But I could get single gear control with a 1 * derailleur setup.
Well done on my location Paulatic, but despite living in Europes biggest bike producing country, trying to find a good bike shop is difficult (although with more bike routes being planned in this area, that may change) and I'm having to find a whole new range of bike bit suppliers throughout Europe. Unfortunately Spa don't ship to Europe and with Covid, I've not been in the UK for nearly 2 years.
An off the shelf bike might be an option, but apart from frame and rear wheels, I have everything else in my box of bits.
So if I change my thoughts to 135mm OLN and vertical dropouts, why should I buy anything other than a Surly Cross Check? I've got one as my main touring, utility, long day ride bike and really love it. Importantly my wife finds it the right size and comfortable as well. But is there something better out there? Has anyone else found their ideal/perfect bike and bought 2 of them for different purposes? Just wondering.
Search found 653 matches
- 1 Dec 2021, 9:39am
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Hunting for a new frame
- Replies: 18
- Views: 1441
- 30 Nov 2021, 9:41pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Hunting for a new frame
- Replies: 18
- Views: 1441
Hunting for a new frame
Hi,
I'm looking for a new frame for a bike build for my wife. I'm a bit out of touch with the current bike market as it's been a few years since my last bike build. Ideally, I want to have a hub gear on it and also space for wide tyres. Probably flat or Jones type bars. A hub gear is easiest to set up with horizontal dropouts, but most frames with these are narrow tyres only. I would want to fit 37mm tyres. So far the only option I've found is the Surly Steamroller. Does anyone know of any other frame options please?
Thanks for your help
Graham
I'm looking for a new frame for a bike build for my wife. I'm a bit out of touch with the current bike market as it's been a few years since my last bike build. Ideally, I want to have a hub gear on it and also space for wide tyres. Probably flat or Jones type bars. A hub gear is easiest to set up with horizontal dropouts, but most frames with these are narrow tyres only. I would want to fit 37mm tyres. So far the only option I've found is the Surly Steamroller. Does anyone know of any other frame options please?
Thanks for your help
Graham
- 18 Sep 2021, 1:15pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Re: Help! My bike has a click
Well it's a lovely sunny day here in Central Portugal but best of all, the bike is silent! I just wish I knew what was different from the normal configuration.
The click went away when I put another back wheel in, but after an initial click or two, the original wheel has been silent since then. Did the other wheel transfer something to or from the dropouts which cured the click? I don't know what the cause is, but on the basis that nothing else has worked, then it appears to be something to do with the rear dropout and/or QR. This morning I've tried it with the QR at "normal" tension, less tension and with more tension, but haven't been able to get it to click. And it's not as if the wheel hasn't been in and out many times before since the click started, so not as simple as put in wrong originally and never touched.
I do remember some thing from the dim and distant past about applying grease to the dropouts on Al frames, so the on bike toolkit, now has a small amount of grease in it in case it returns.
Thank you everyone for your help.
The click went away when I put another back wheel in, but after an initial click or two, the original wheel has been silent since then. Did the other wheel transfer something to or from the dropouts which cured the click? I don't know what the cause is, but on the basis that nothing else has worked, then it appears to be something to do with the rear dropout and/or QR. This morning I've tried it with the QR at "normal" tension, less tension and with more tension, but haven't been able to get it to click. And it's not as if the wheel hasn't been in and out many times before since the click started, so not as simple as put in wrong originally and never touched.
I do remember some thing from the dim and distant past about applying grease to the dropouts on Al frames, so the on bike toolkit, now has a small amount of grease in it in case it returns.
Thank you everyone for your help.
- 17 Sep 2021, 6:38pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Re: Help! My bike has a click
The same thought occurred to me about 10 minutes ago and I've just been outside for a test. Fitted a different rear wheel and no clicking, put the original wheel back in and after 2 or 3 clicks, it was silent even under full load. Now I've been putting wheels in and out for years without problems, so that would suggest that I know what I'm doing, but even so, it does look like the problem could be there. I will investigate more fully tomorrow. I think all my quick releases have been shimano and these are some other brand. Perhaps they need more tension that I've been giving them?
- 17 Sep 2021, 5:54pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Re: Help! My bike has a click
This has gone from frustrating to something I have to track down! I managed to fit a square taper BB and chainset and
.
.
(wait for it)
.
.
.
the click is still there! If anything, as I reported earlier, it is louder and sounds more like a creak than a sharp click sound.
I've had a good look at the frame and can't see any signs of a broken weld, so there's no reason to suspect a frame problem. The only thing I've not adjusted is the headset, but there's no play in that and the sound does seem to be coming from the bottom bracket area. (although it could just be where the sound emanates from).
I think the next option is to get it to the local bike shop and get them to check on the BB facing. Beyond that, I am really in the dark about what could be causing it.
Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. I will post any updates on here.
(My other bike is a Surly Cross Check which suits me perfectly. When I bought the Crosslight, I was very tempted to just buy another Cross Check frame but keep it as a lighterweight faster bike, rather than commuter/tourer/shopper. Perhaps I'll just get a Surly Straggler frame and move components over!)
.
.
(wait for it)
.
.
.
the click is still there! If anything, as I reported earlier, it is louder and sounds more like a creak than a sharp click sound.
I've had a good look at the frame and can't see any signs of a broken weld, so there's no reason to suspect a frame problem. The only thing I've not adjusted is the headset, but there's no play in that and the sound does seem to be coming from the bottom bracket area. (although it could just be where the sound emanates from).
I think the next option is to get it to the local bike shop and get them to check on the BB facing. Beyond that, I am really in the dark about what could be causing it.
Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. I will post any updates on here.
(My other bike is a Surly Cross Check which suits me perfectly. When I bought the Crosslight, I was very tempted to just buy another Cross Check frame but keep it as a lighterweight faster bike, rather than commuter/tourer/shopper. Perhaps I'll just get a Surly Straggler frame and move components over!)
- 17 Sep 2021, 4:57pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Re: Help! My bike has a click
Nothing being physically trapped as the wheel goes round. Agree that perhaps refitting the BB certainly needs trying.
I'm in Portugal and the Spa chainset is a Super Compact 46/30 or a 44/28.
Possibly, we'll be in the UK before Christmas and since hopefully not flying, could load the car with goodies.
- 17 Sep 2021, 4:48pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Re: Help! My bike has a click
That thought did cross my mind and is something I think I can put together, but having spent 200 euros on parts, it's a bit disappointing to put them on ebay for much less. And unfortunately, with Spa cycles not shipping to Europe, (they have the ideal chainset) getting a permanent solution may be a problem. But where there is a will, there is a way.slowster wrote: ↑17 Sep 2021, 4:43pm I would be inclined to try a square taper cartridge bottom bracket and chainset, on the basis that if the click then disappeared it would confirm that the problem was with the Hollowtech II set up, e.g. its need for the shell to be faced as you suggest. Any square taper BB and chainset that you might already have - or can get hold of - should do for such a test, i.e. regardless of the chainring size or whether its a single, double or triple, and regardless of the axle length and chainline.
- 17 Sep 2021, 4:37pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
- 17 Sep 2021, 4:30pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help! My bike has a click
- Replies: 19
- Views: 1024
Help! My bike has a click
I need help before I throw a nice bike in the ditch and apply petrol and a match. I have a Kinesis Crosslight about 5 years old, never been dropped, knocked over etc and just light use, but about a year ago it developed an annoying click and/or double click on pedalling, so it has had even less usage in the last year. However I resolved to do something about it and change the configuration to suit my current riding. It has had new chainset, new sprockets, new chain, new front mech, new Hollowtech bottom bracket and yet it still clicks when the right hand crank is under load at about the 3 o'clock position.
Not all noises come from the bottom bracket, so I have adjusted and greased the saddle - click is still present whether sitting on the saddle or standing. The handlebars have been rotated up and down, shifted left and right, gripped at the hoods, the tops and right next to the stem and the click continues.
The biggest problem is that it has never been consistent, on a flat road with constant effort, it will click for 10 pedal revolutions and then go quiet for 20 or more, but always it comes back. Pedalling one legged is silent as is just rotating the pedals without effort applied. The cranks rotate freely and without binding anywhere.
I've watched Youtube "Does your bike tick?" videos, but I am just really at the end of my patience with the thing.
I fitted the new chainset yesterday (asked on here about preload on the plastic insert) and just been out on it. The click is different in sound to before the changes as it is louder although it seems to need more pressure on the pedal to appear.
About the only thing I haven't checked is whether the bottom bracket shell was correctly faced.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, they really would be much appreciated.
Not all noises come from the bottom bracket, so I have adjusted and greased the saddle - click is still present whether sitting on the saddle or standing. The handlebars have been rotated up and down, shifted left and right, gripped at the hoods, the tops and right next to the stem and the click continues.
The biggest problem is that it has never been consistent, on a flat road with constant effort, it will click for 10 pedal revolutions and then go quiet for 20 or more, but always it comes back. Pedalling one legged is silent as is just rotating the pedals without effort applied. The cranks rotate freely and without binding anywhere.
I've watched Youtube "Does your bike tick?" videos, but I am just really at the end of my patience with the thing.
I fitted the new chainset yesterday (asked on here about preload on the plastic insert) and just been out on it. The click is different in sound to before the changes as it is louder although it seems to need more pressure on the pedal to appear.
About the only thing I haven't checked is whether the bottom bracket shell was correctly faced.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, they really would be much appreciated.
- 16 Sep 2021, 12:00pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Installing New Crankset
- Replies: 21
- Views: 1355
Re: Installing New Crankset
Excellent information and that video was very informative. Now out to the garage to set it up properly.
With regards using a torque wrench, since I got a bike specific one, I use it all the time. When I used to work on cars a lot (bought lots of unreliable ones!) I got to know how much torque was a "good pull" on a 10" spanner quite accurately, but I'm too ham fisted to do the same on a bike.
Thanks for your help
Graham
With regards using a torque wrench, since I got a bike specific one, I use it all the time. When I used to work on cars a lot (bought lots of unreliable ones!) I got to know how much torque was a "good pull" on a 10" spanner quite accurately, but I'm too ham fisted to do the same on a bike.
Thanks for your help
Graham
- 16 Sep 2021, 10:05am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Installing New Crankset
- Replies: 21
- Views: 1355
Installing New Crankset
I have a new GRX 46/30 chainset for the bike and with it comes a plastic part which screws into the non drive side of the axle once the crank is fitted. My question is whether this should be tightened before the crank bolts are tightened to provide preload, or is it mostly to stop muck getting in and should be tightened after the crank bolts? If the crank bolts are tightened first, presumably, the crank is just pushed by hand as far onto the axle as it will go.
Thanks for your help.
Graham
Thanks for your help.
Graham
- 2 Apr 2021, 9:32am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Punctures. How to mark the hole?
- Replies: 79
- Views: 3615
Re: Punctures. How to mark the hole?
Mick F wrote:Find the hole.
.......find the hole with your tongue and it'll be a wet spot showing the hole.
Urgh! You would lick a well used inner tube?
I find that licking ones lips and then passing the inflated tube near the lips will give a cold sensation when the air blast gets on them.
- 27 Mar 2021, 9:32am
- Forum: Touring & Expedition
- Topic: Drive Belt vs Chain, Rohloff Hub vs Derailler, and other questions.
- Replies: 127
- Views: 8438
Re: Drive Belt vs Chain, Rohloff Hub vs Derailler, and other questions.
Nobody has mentioned the Pinion frame gearbox as an alternative to Rohloff/derailleur options. Yes it implies a restricted choice of frame, but in specc'ing the perfect bike, it is part of the process of pros and cons. Any comments from the group please?
- 30 Jan 2021, 9:56am
- Forum: Touring & Expedition
- Topic: Crazyguyonabike
- Replies: 74
- Views: 8204
Re: Crazyguyonabike
It just loaded okay for me and I can access the blogs. I had trouble logging in recently, so perhaps there are problems somewhere.
- 25 Jan 2021, 11:59am
- Forum: Touring & Expedition
- Topic: Faro to st-malo
- Replies: 8
- Views: 1115
Re: Faro to st-malo
I did 2 trips along the border in '17 and '18 and was intending to go back and do the northern section in '19, but that was cancelled as we moved to Portugal instead! A good move, although Covid has stopped us really exploring since then. Have a look on crazyguyonabike for "A Surly goes to Portugal" and "A Surly goes back to Portugal".
I did take some camping stuff the first year in case I was caught out, but didn't use it. Wild camping is not allowed in Portugal, but you can find campsite signs in most areas. Youth hostels, Pousada de Juventude, https://pousadasjuventude.pt/en are good, reasonably priced and although I didn't base the route around them, found them to be in convenient places. Apart from one in Lisbon, they were pretty quiet. Hotels are also quite cheap, around 25 to 35Euros a night for country locations. You can pay more, but not necessary.
You also see hostel signs, although only(?) in tourist areas. The border region is pretty empty but wonderful for it. You can easily cycle for an hour or so without seeing a car. A few words of Portuguese will go a long way as English is very patchy, particularly among the older population who will be the only people on the streets during the day. But French is quite widely spoken and of course Spanish.
Feel free to ask if you want more infomation.
(I was hoping that 2020 would be the year of a long trip from home (North Wales) to Gibralter, but now, I'm looking at a trip similar to yours, north to Cherbourg or Caen, for a visit to Portsmouth, although don't know when. Of course, home to Gibralter is now just a weeks ride!)
I did take some camping stuff the first year in case I was caught out, but didn't use it. Wild camping is not allowed in Portugal, but you can find campsite signs in most areas. Youth hostels, Pousada de Juventude, https://pousadasjuventude.pt/en are good, reasonably priced and although I didn't base the route around them, found them to be in convenient places. Apart from one in Lisbon, they were pretty quiet. Hotels are also quite cheap, around 25 to 35Euros a night for country locations. You can pay more, but not necessary.
You also see hostel signs, although only(?) in tourist areas. The border region is pretty empty but wonderful for it. You can easily cycle for an hour or so without seeing a car. A few words of Portuguese will go a long way as English is very patchy, particularly among the older population who will be the only people on the streets during the day. But French is quite widely spoken and of course Spanish.
Feel free to ask if you want more infomation.
(I was hoping that 2020 would be the year of a long trip from home (North Wales) to Gibralter, but now, I'm looking at a trip similar to yours, north to Cherbourg or Caen, for a visit to Portsmouth, although don't know when. Of course, home to Gibralter is now just a weeks ride!)