I've serviced several hubs for friends, so it made sense to me having something to support the hubs while removing those bearings. Those cheap track hubs use terrible bearings, they last nothing.
For removing bearings and races, I have a small collection of old allen keys that have been chopped off at 45º after the bend. Best tool for the job, again costs £0.00 as the allen keys were very old and good only for the bin.
Search found 3717 matches
- 7 Feb 2016, 5:22pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
- Replies: 25
- Views: 3093
- 7 Feb 2016, 10:59am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
- Replies: 25
- Views: 3093
Re: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
Yes I'm sure it can work, but one that's going to service hubs may as well get the right tools.
This particular one does cost £0.00, is one block of wood to be drilled out; I've done mine with a loose 10mm (for resting axles), 30mm (for those single-speed hubs that do use 6000 type bearings), 38mm (for supporting hubs in general, and pre-stress handbuilt wheels) and 44mm (for removing BB30 bearings or supporting OS bb shells). Such a useful simple thing
This particular one does cost £0.00, is one block of wood to be drilled out; I've done mine with a loose 10mm (for resting axles), 30mm (for those single-speed hubs that do use 6000 type bearings), 38mm (for supporting hubs in general, and pre-stress handbuilt wheels) and 44mm (for removing BB30 bearings or supporting OS bb shells). Such a useful simple thing
- 7 Feb 2016, 10:48am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: acera ST chainset 8/9 speed
- Replies: 10
- Views: 1208
Re: acera ST chainset 8/9 speed
I agree, worst you'll get is a bit of chain rub, at that point you may just want to shift on another chainring
- 7 Feb 2016, 10:46am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: why Vpad use retaining clips rather than screw like roadPad
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1254
Re: why Vpad use retaining clips rather than screw like road
I prefer to use Methylated spirit or spray acetone, rather than light oil. The advantage is that you get the pads sliding in easy (this is SO helpful for Campagnolo inserts) plus you remove any unwanted oil/dirt that may be around.
The cleaner are the inserts and rim, the better the brakes work.
Btw, the holes for the pins on v-brake pads can be poked with a safety pin or a paper clip
The cleaner are the inserts and rim, the better the brakes work.
Btw, the holes for the pins on v-brake pads can be poked with a safety pin or a paper clip
- 6 Feb 2016, 11:20pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Shimano brake calipers
- Replies: 4
- Views: 3070
Re: Shimano brake calipers
I think the Defy needs mid-long drop brakes, because has got room for mudguards? If so, you should get brakes like the Shimano R451 (Tiagra class), or the R650 which are Ultegra class; essentialy a brake with 41-57mm drop, normal road bikes (with no clearance for mudguards) do use shorter brakes with 39-50mm drop.
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:49pm
- Forum: Cycle Camping sub-forum
- Topic: Pictures of your bike in a tent
- Replies: 32
- Views: 3931
Re: Pictures of your bike in a tent
A pyramid tent relies all the weight/tension on the pole, it this does flex the tent will collapse. This is the opposite of modern tents, where the poles are arranged in a way to rely on the tension of the fabric, and they are actually meant to flex.
All the classic designs like pyramid or A-frame must be on a rigid structure, the stiffer the better; imagine what would happen if you could push down the center of the pyramid, it would be all over the place.
Yet, a 200gr rigid pole may not be the end of the world for most
All the classic designs like pyramid or A-frame must be on a rigid structure, the stiffer the better; imagine what would happen if you could push down the center of the pyramid, it would be all over the place.
Yet, a 200gr rigid pole may not be the end of the world for most
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:34pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Newbie - Touring Bike Advice
- Replies: 44
- Views: 2461
Re: Newbie - Touring Bike Advice
Those are good wheels, seems a nice deal.
If I can give a suggestion: check the chain length.
The chain is in the middle ring and 2nd (looks like) sprocket and the rear mech has the cage slightly forward. Make sure that with the big chainring and the 1sty (biggest) sprocket the chain doesn't get over-tensioned with the mech cage being pulled all the way to the front. Although one is not supposed to use such gear, it can be engaged by mistake and cause big problems.
I hope I'm wrong and congrats for the new bike!
If I can give a suggestion: check the chain length.
The chain is in the middle ring and 2nd (looks like) sprocket and the rear mech has the cage slightly forward. Make sure that with the big chainring and the 1sty (biggest) sprocket the chain doesn't get over-tensioned with the mech cage being pulled all the way to the front. Although one is not supposed to use such gear, it can be engaged by mistake and cause big problems.
I hope I'm wrong and congrats for the new bike!
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:26pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: BB - External cups to square taper
- Replies: 81
- Views: 4048
Re: BB - External cups to square taper
I wonder how can you repack the bearings in a Shimano sealed unit?
Btw, let's not go into "installation errors" as it's a cave without ending!
Btw, let's not go into "installation errors" as it's a cave without ending!
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:25pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
- Replies: 25
- Views: 3093
Re: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
I'd still use a support, if wood is not available, a piece of thick plastic pipe with a rag on top should suffice
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:23pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: why Vpad use retaining clips rather than screw like roadPad
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1254
Re: why Vpad use retaining clips rather than screw like road
Surely the "cartridge" type of pads make for quick pad replacement without need to do major adjustments, often there may be no need to readjust at all.
One good tip before fitting the "rubber" inserts, is to grab a small file and make sure that the slot for the pin is well clean, and while fitting the insert in the cartridge to use a thin pointy thing (I use a "podger" made with a 15g spoke) so to make sure that the holes in the cartridge are well aligned with the slot in the insert.
By doing this, I always found very easy to remove the insert in my Avid or Shimano v-brakes. I use a set of good pliers too (Knipex)
One good tip before fitting the "rubber" inserts, is to grab a small file and make sure that the slot for the pin is well clean, and while fitting the insert in the cartridge to use a thin pointy thing (I use a "podger" made with a 15g spoke) so to make sure that the holes in the cartridge are well aligned with the slot in the insert.
By doing this, I always found very easy to remove the insert in my Avid or Shimano v-brakes. I use a set of good pliers too (Knipex)
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:19pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Grease is grease is grease. Or not?
- Replies: 38
- Views: 4861
Re: Grease is grease is grease. Or not?
Yes, all this says that "grease in not all the same", and so is every lubricant. Like yogurts are not all the same, i.e. some use whole milk, some use skimmed milk.
I'm not too sure everyone needs a compendium of chemical terminology before doing the regular maintenance to their bikes. Don't get me wrong, is good to have knowledge
For my experience, the average cyclist need no more than 5 or 6 specific products:
-Teflon or fully synthetic grease for the "high speed" parts, or suspension forks
-Lithium or thick Waterproof grease for the part that need good protection from corrosion
-medium weight oil
-lightweight oil/water displacer (like GT85 or WD40, although none of them is technically an "oil")
-degreaser (bio degreaser preferrable)
-medium threadlock
I'm not too sure everyone needs a compendium of chemical terminology before doing the regular maintenance to their bikes. Don't get me wrong, is good to have knowledge
For my experience, the average cyclist need no more than 5 or 6 specific products:
-Teflon or fully synthetic grease for the "high speed" parts, or suspension forks
-Lithium or thick Waterproof grease for the part that need good protection from corrosion
-medium weight oil
-lightweight oil/water displacer (like GT85 or WD40, although none of them is technically an "oil")
-degreaser (bio degreaser preferrable)
-medium threadlock
- 6 Feb 2016, 9:06pm
- Forum: Cycle Camping sub-forum
- Topic: Pictures of your bike in a tent
- Replies: 32
- Views: 3931
Re: Pictures of your bike in a tent
Graham O wrote:I've been wondering if a bike (with wheels on) would fit inside the porch of one of these http://www.backpackinglight.co.uk/shelters-1/WF126.html . The tents seem to have a good reputation and the price and weight are good.
You should be able to fit any bike up to a large size, by simply laying it on the ground before the "nest".
Those pyramid tents/tarps are quite nice and seem good value for money. The problem is that they need a dedicated, stiff pole to be put up. Walkers have their walking sticks which are very light and rigid, but the poor cyclist needs a separate pole. All in all, the weight is still good for the amount of space offered, I can see one being able to fix a puncture inside that tent
- 6 Feb 2016, 3:42pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
- Replies: 25
- Views: 3093
Re: Servicing Campagnolo Record Pre-2006 oversize hubs
sun ra wrote:...
How would one go about supporting the wheel whilst performing the cup removal and reinsertion?
Without the axle in place I'm guessing an axle vice will be of no use? Perhaps lay the wheel on a lawn with two or three soft wooden blocks under either side of the rim wall to stop it rocking ?
Take a block of wood and drill a hole that has to be just bigger than the races, I think the races are 34mm so drill 35-37.
However, IMO the first thing to replace are the bearings with their ring, then the cones, and if things aren't great you go fro replacing the races too.
- 6 Feb 2016, 3:37pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: What's this little hole for?
- Replies: 15
- Views: 1472
Re: What's this little hole for?
I don't think that such dropouts are/were for high end frames, so there's no way they will be forged but rather cast or more likely stamped. The one in the picture looks cast, according to the rounded profile.
Whatever way is made, it's a detail that reminds me the mechanics in the old days: the big hole betweeen the chain/seatstay junction was used to place a piece of bar, when the wheel was removed the mechanic would hold the chain there, so to turn the pedals with one hand and wipe off the chain with a rag in the other hand
Whatever way is made, it's a detail that reminds me the mechanics in the old days: the big hole betweeen the chain/seatstay junction was used to place a piece of bar, when the wheel was removed the mechanic would hold the chain there, so to turn the pedals with one hand and wipe off the chain with a rag in the other hand
- 6 Feb 2016, 3:33pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Grease is grease is grease. Or not?
- Replies: 38
- Views: 4861
Re: Grease is grease is grease. Or not?
My friend who's a professional mechanic recommended me the Finish Line green, as they use it on a daily basis. I can say that have never experienced any noticeable amount of "crud" caking up, neither I've been told about failures of parts due to this lube. In fact, my chains and parts are always pretty clean..., hold on, maybe's because I do wipe-off regularly, say every few weeks? That goes with my personal view "if you don't want a problem, don't create a situation that may lead to a problem".
I think takes a lot of abuse and lack of attention to build up so much grime to have the chain skipping, at that point I don't think that any maintenance product could be the substitute for lack of common sense.
As far a cables, I've used the Finish Line in Campagnolo, Shimano, Avid Flack Jacket and Jagwire. Some of those cables are on bikes which are up to 14 years old and still with the original cables after >10.000km. It seem strange to me that Teflon would react badly with oil? It is true however that on exposed sections of Teflon/Pvc the dirt works its way in and gets trapped; I've seen this happening on chaps with their carbon road bike where the wire for the front mech comes out the BB shell and gets lots of spray form the rear wheel.
I think takes a lot of abuse and lack of attention to build up so much grime to have the chain skipping, at that point I don't think that any maintenance product could be the substitute for lack of common sense.
As far a cables, I've used the Finish Line in Campagnolo, Shimano, Avid Flack Jacket and Jagwire. Some of those cables are on bikes which are up to 14 years old and still with the original cables after >10.000km. It seem strange to me that Teflon would react badly with oil? It is true however that on exposed sections of Teflon/Pvc the dirt works its way in and gets trapped; I've seen this happening on chaps with their carbon road bike where the wire for the front mech comes out the BB shell and gets lots of spray form the rear wheel.