I'd be very interested in what explanation Tektro give you.
I for one will never buy another Tektro product. My MTB came with Tektro IO disk brakes and they are terrible.... I can only compare the braking power of those disk brakes with my 27 year road bike . I've changed the pads twice, the rotors and two LBS have had a go a making them better.
Search found 163 matches
- 24 Nov 2012, 9:28pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Dangerous Tektro R358 Brakes
- Replies: 17
- Views: 6975
- 24 Nov 2012, 7:58pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Dangerous Tektro R358 Brakes
- Replies: 17
- Views: 6975
Re: Dangerous Tektro R358 Brakes
I just checked the brakes on my single speed and they are in fact Tektro R538. I don't if these are another model or you got the digits in the wrong order.
They do have a piece of silver duck tape but it seems to me the tape has no interference with the QR mechanisms. I always thought the tape was to protect the shiny black finish In any case, they are very poor brakes, not worth the money.
They do have a piece of silver duck tape but it seems to me the tape has no interference with the QR mechanisms. I always thought the tape was to protect the shiny black finish In any case, they are very poor brakes, not worth the money.
- 24 Nov 2012, 7:37pm
- Forum: The Tea Shop
- Topic: Motor Oil/Maintenance Items Life
- Replies: 3
- Views: 354
Re: Motor Oil/Maintenance Items Life
Oil should be fine to use but I'm not sure about brake fluid.
- 29 Oct 2012, 9:04pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Brookes B17 Dilemma...
- Replies: 26
- Views: 5971
Re: Brookes B17 Dilemma...
Claireysmurf wrote:I bought a B17 in June or July this year. I now prefer to cycle in normal cotton underwear and lined jogging bottoms. I did a big bike ride a few weeks ago and wore cycling shorts but think they don't actually work well with my saddle
I also find that padded short, unless they are thin, don't work well with Brooks saddles.
I have a pair of shorts with very thin padding which are perfect for long rides.
- 14 Oct 2012, 10:30pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Compact to Triple
- Replies: 8
- Views: 1671
Re: Compact to Triple
I'm wondering what size your cassette is.
I had a similar dilemma once but I was advised to go for a larger cassette and a derailleur with a longer cage. I ended up with a MTB cassette of 12 - 34T and that was good enough for me to use with the compact crankset.
I had a similar dilemma once but I was advised to go for a larger cassette and a derailleur with a longer cage. I ended up with a MTB cassette of 12 - 34T and that was good enough for me to use with the compact crankset.
- 5 Oct 2012, 10:41pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Leather racing saddles
- Replies: 15
- Views: 7782
Re: Leather racing saddles
Benethi wrote:Thanks for all the replies
I guessed that racing saddles used to be used for racing...but they're clearly being used for a lot of different things now, else they just wouldn't be selling.
So...I'm very tempted by the Wharfe or the Aire. From the pictures the Aire looks a more sensible shape to me (i.e.more like the Specialized saddles)...but possibly I need to get myself up to Harrogate and take a proper look.
Giles Berthound are all way out of my price range.
My guess is that the B17 is too wide for your sit bones.
The Swallow, B17N have about the same width. The Team Pro is a little wider than the B17N but worth a try too
I own 6 Brooks saddles from a Swallow to the very wide B67. I found that the riding position is critical, in other words, riding the swallow on my town bike (very upright position) then it would be painful but riding the Swallow on my road bike (saddle higher than the bars position - an aggressive riding position) then it feels great.
This site has very good information on deciding how to chose the correct Brooks saddle [url]http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/zadels/index_en.html#zadel-zitbot-breedtehttp://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/zadels/index_en.html#kleurvastheid[/url]
- 28 Apr 2012, 10:02pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Tools - Is this worth it?
- Replies: 16
- Views: 2817
Re: Tools - Is this worth it?
gaz wrote:[XAP]Bob wrote:I think they are often considered to be a good started kit - gradually replace things with "decent" tools as you break them.
I don't think it would take long to break those cone spanners (13), at least it didn't take me long when I had a set just like them.
Yes, they are not the best cone spanners but they can be handy in an emergency. I have some park tools cone wrenches which are brilliant.
A cheap alternative to headset spanner I got two for my 1989 bike and they do a fine job.
- 21 Apr 2012, 9:27pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Breaking in a Brooks; Bike Specific Dimples?
- Replies: 11
- Views: 2006
Re: Breaking in a Brooks; Bike Specific Dimples?
You don't say what model of saddle your friend intends to brake in.
One thing to bear in mind is her sit bones width and the saddle she chooses. For instances, a B67 would probably be very comfortable on the commuting bike but not so much on the road bike.
On the other hand, a Swallow would give her probably a rather uncomfortable braking in time, and that is assuming her sit bones width was narrow enough for the saddle in the upright position.
A B17 would probably be the saddle to try although she might just get away with a Team Pro.
One thing to bear in mind is her sit bones width and the saddle she chooses. For instances, a B67 would probably be very comfortable on the commuting bike but not so much on the road bike.
On the other hand, a Swallow would give her probably a rather uncomfortable braking in time, and that is assuming her sit bones width was narrow enough for the saddle in the upright position.
A B17 would probably be the saddle to try although she might just get away with a Team Pro.
- 19 Apr 2012, 8:14am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Brooks Swift - Sagging/Stretching
- Replies: 29
- Views: 4630
Re: Brooks Swift - Sagging/Stretching
Colin63 wrote:I have a theory/suspicion that some leather saddles are just going to be more stretchy than others, and some just won't stop stretching. My B17 is only four years old but continually has to be tensioned and it just keeps on getting saggier. No two pieces of leather are going to behave the same. Leather is as predictable as the cows from which it comes. I'm hoping that my coppers jar will be full enough to replace it within the next year or two when it finally reaches the end of the tensioner.
I own a few Brooks saddles and reading this thread got me thinking what I do differently cause I've never had this problem, I don't even tension my saddles (see below)
My eldest saddle is about 7 years old - a Team Pro and it's as hard as a rock but very comfortable. My B17 Special is about 6 years old and not as hard but very comfortable too. My Flyer is quite new but when I compare it with the B17 I don't see much difference at all in the leather.
The Team Pro has done in excess of 5000 miles. The B17 Special has done in excess of 7000.
Now, what do I do differently? Well, none of my saddles have ever been soaked. I'm particularly careful about that..... if I have to go out in the rain I use a bike with fenders and never leave the bike out in the rain.
I have never used Proofide (simply because I didn't have any when I bought my first saddle) but I had something called "Bick 4" instead, which I use for my boots. I cover the underside to start with and then the top every few months.
About the tensioning - quite a few years back, maybe 5 years, I read a page about this guy lacing his saddle and going on about extending the life of his saddle blah blah blah. I thought it wouldn't hurt my saddles so I did the B17 Special first as it was being used the most at the time and I was so happy with the result that I did the Team Pro as well. Hence no tensioning them. I have not laced the Flyer yet but that one has only done about 800 miles.....but I will do it shortly. I'm a 16 stones rider so I don't want to take any chances with my much loved saddles
From what I know about Brooks saddles I think it's crucial to prevent soaking and also not to over do it with the proofide or whatever you use. I remember somebody saying this " I treat my saddles from new: once a day for the first week, followed by once a week for a month and then after once every six months" I think I do less than half of that in the first month having said that, this guy had saddles that were over 20 years old so he must be doing something right.
My wife thinks I'm addicted to unboxing Brooks saddles watch this guy I also have in my collection a B67 and a B15 - Swallow.
- 17 Apr 2012, 1:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Shimergo - sorry (!)
- Replies: 22
- Views: 1722
Re: Shimergo - sorry (!)
CREPELLO wrote:This thread suggests to me that there are so many different permutations in Shimergo and within Campag components, although increasingly in Shimano comp's to, that anyone considering Shimergo should be prepared to do a lot of research, be mechanically minded and be prepared for the unexpected.Just interested to know what you do have here, because 'Powershift' came in 2011. Is it just the single gear shift available on the RH button? That's Powershift.RRSODL wrote:I'm running a new 105 front dereailleur - new 105 rear dereailleur (long cage) and 2010 Campagnolo Veloce Powershift 10 Speed Ergopower Levers.
It may be that just Ultrashift aren't good with Shimano Road mech's. Mine certainly weren't. I also recall using an RSX FM briefly with Veloce Ultrashift. That too was slipping. I believe I've had this experience with both 2009 and 2010 US.
But I'd be surprised if Powershift were good with Shimano road mech's do to the drastically reduced micro-shifting available (it's semi indexing from what I can tell), compared to US and even more so compared to classic ergo levers. With the lesser cable pull of the road mech, this would reduce the anount of clicks available for use in the ergo, would it not?
My apologies!!!! I had to search for the link as my memory failed me ..... what I have is : "Campagnolo Veloce 10 Ultrashift Ergo Levers 2010"
Sorry for the confusion.
- 17 Apr 2012, 8:59am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: To Brooks or not to Brooks....
- Replies: 75
- Views: 8806
Re: To Brooks or not to Brooks....
tatanab wrote:Three flavours of big rivet Brooks in use here.
B17 I do not like. It is very flat across the back and the sides flare . Only about 3 thousand miles on this saddle, it lives on the least used machine.
Two Swifts. They get soft and saggy very quickly, fewer than 1000 miles. One lives on a little used bike because it needs tension too often, the other is in regular use. It does not sag as much, perhaps it reached a limit, looks grim with deep indents not far from the outermost rivets which must be where my bones go, but is quite comfortable.
Team Pro. Slightly narrower tham B17 and slightly wider then the Swift and much more rigid leather than either. This I like. It showed no signs of developing indents after 1500 miles, then I went on a 1500 mile tour and one side of the saddle got a bit saggy - it deformed a bit. Again, it looks odd, if you notice it, but is comfortable.
If you want bag loops then B17 or Swift have them but to get them on the Pro you need to go for titanium rails.
For something slightly different, I have a Gilles Berthoud Aspin http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... teel_rails) for a couple of thousand miles. The width is similar to the Pro but with the narrow waist of the Swift. The leather is almost twice as thick as on a B17. This does not seem to mould itself at all but I have found it very comfortable from the off. Included here because it has the appearance of big rivets due to the cup washers on the fixing screws.
If you were to lace your saddle you might be able to enjoy it more
- 17 Apr 2012, 8:11am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: will i need a new chain
- Replies: 4
- Views: 632
Re: will i need a new chain
cols3064 wrote:a tooth as broke on my cassette,causing gear slip on that ring,will i need to put a new chain on when i replace the cassette,the chain as had not much weare
Only if the chain is worn - if you have a chain wear measuring tool you can check if that is the case. If not then you don't need a new chain.
- 17 Apr 2012, 7:54am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Shimergo - sorry (!)
- Replies: 22
- Views: 1722
Re: Shimergo - sorry (!)
Edwards wrote:Pedalsheep the rear will index perfectly, it is the front that might give a problem. As your 105 mech is older then this might work but I found I could not get mine to do so (the mech was new).
The amount of cable pulled by the Campag is a nearer match to Shimano MTB front mechs (not the expensive new ones). I use Alivio mechs and these should match your front chain ring better than the 105.
No washers or funny gizmos but some chain rub at the extremes.
The ideal is to get a 9 speed Campag front mech.
I'm running a new 105 front dereailleur - new 105 rear dereailleur (long cage) and Campagnolo Veloce 10 Ultrashift Ergo Levers 2010.
When I did the upgrade, from downtube shifters I was warned that not all 10 speeds Campy shifters work with the shimano combination.... but the Ergopowers do. I seem to remember that the 10 speeds Veloce 2009 would not work.
I find that the whole setup works better than a full shimano system. The Campy shifters allow for micro adjustment of the front dereailleur which prevents a lot of the chain rubbing.
You might find this page an interesting reading