Cycling UK Forum

Brucey wrote:

The utility cyclist wrote:
How much do stainless steel spindles rust with no intervention?.

IME shimano pedal spindles are plated, not stainless, and they go rusty.

If you push hard on the pedals, a week's touring can cause them to precess (self tighten) so that you can only just get them off with a tool about 12" long. YMMV of course.

FWIW I used to ride clips and straps whilst doing all kinds of technical stuff offroad; double-sided SPDs are a lot easier, and anything which (quite unnecessarily) makes it more awkward than it needs to be to clip in is a step backwards not a step forwards. As I mentioned I thought the review I linked to was fair and they also mention this.

cheers

My mileage varies massively to what you're stating, not even close and I can easily knock out a 1000 watts in an effort, no problem removing pedals with an AK, helps if you have proper tools mind. Pedals like most things you get used to the nuances of where to tap to rotate or place your foot to slide in or clip in, it's not that big a deal after a short running in period.
As for rust, it's not really an issue for those that aren't bothered about cleaning and no rust on 25 year old XT SPD axles so maybe it's really not that big a deal to 99.9% of people.

Bonefishblues wrote:

The utility cyclist wrote:

Bonefishblues wrote:Daft question - what is ti then?

I'm not flogging it, I'm just repeating what they call it.

Looks like the rollers are 'titanium material'.

So the chain fits the OPs request for something that is rust resistant then?

kwackers wrote:

The utility cyclist wrote:restricted more, back to 12mph top speed,

Why not limit bicycles to 12mph?
You could do it by legally limiting the gearing so that 12mph required a cadence of (say) 100.

Slower is safer, what's not to like?


You did of course completely miss the point of using an electric bike for a commute, it's not necessarily to increase the distance but often to decrease the time and since time and speed are related...
As for not getting people out of their cars, do you have evidence they don't work? Those folk I see commuting on ebikes, presumably they don't have a car?

For me without the ebike there was no way I would do the commute by bicycle and the only reason I wouldn't use the car is because it was barely cheaper than the train.
These days though we have electric cars, suddenly that 40 odd mile commute is costing 50p as opposed to a tenner on the train, given I think it's unlikely the train is going to be appealing any time soon then all those cyclists I pass have one more car to contend with...
(Assuming I need to go into work at any point)

Electric assist cycles are not limited to 12mph are they so your point is rather moot, however having the extra power and higher speed on tap whilst you barely turn the pedals over makes a significant difference in behaviour, search these very forums for how users talk with pride at how their behaviour changes with the 'free' speed. One is able to build up to faster speeds through ability and experience, with the aid of a power unit you add in acceleration as well as faux speed that many simply cannot manage to maintain under their own steam. Older folk, those whom hae not ridden a bike for a long while are then able to scoot along at a speed they've not done in possibly 40 years if ever, you understand how speed plays a part in the inexperienced right?

As for modal share, have a look to Netherlands and Germany, massive sales of e-assist cycles and we've seen in Germany fewer people riding bikes overall and no increases in Netherlands, if not decreases there also. Over the same period of the massive upsurge in pedelecs there's been an increase n car sales in both countries. Netherlands also showed that whilst younger age groups got safer, the age groups that were buying e-bikes the most had significant increases in deaths, there were no more people riding but a large increase in deaths of a specific subset whilst in the non ebuying groups there was a significant drop.

How does having 15.5mph on tap make any difference to having 12 mph on tap, how does having extra power make any difference? How many people commute 40miles or make 40 mile journeys? How many would want to convert to a cycle for such a journey even if they could? The appeal of the high power e-cycle for longer commuting distances is just a figment of imagination, and to change the laws regards output and speed on tap to fit in with a tiny fraction of a very small % is not just daft it's dangerous and reckless.

Bonefishblues wrote:

The utility cyclist wrote:YABAN make a high end titanium chain which has chromium carbide coated pins and chromium molybdenum alloy plates so should be extremely resistant to corrosion, it comes in 11 speed that I know of and works with Campagnolo and Shimano drivetrains AFAIK.

Daft question - what is ti then?

I'm not flogging it, I'm just repeating what they call it.

Mini Vs, I use TRP CX9s, they are amazing brakes, you will not regret buying them and worth the money, great clearance for wide tyres and guards.

YABAN make a high end titanium chain which has chromium carbide coated pins and chromium molybdenum alloy plates so should be extremely resistant to corrosion, it comes in 11 speed that I know of and works with Campagnolo and Shimano drivetrains AFAIK.

restricted more, back to 12mph top speed, there's absolutely no need for faster, all the additional power/speed does is increase average speed a bit and subsequently shorten range, also increased speed/power decreases safety. We've already seen the evidence that the existing speeds are too much and that electric assist bikes bring about more death and injury from those using them.

For those seeking more adventure, there is no need for additional speed or power, for those seeking to have help with mobility, there is no need for additional speed/power, for those seeking to extend their commute distance, there is no need to increase speed of the machine or power. Increasing speed/power will not sway motor vehicles drivers to leave their personal motorised conveyances in favour of electric assist either.

mattsccm wrote:I would like to see a compromise set up. Higher speeds , say 25mph but the need to do training like a motorcycle CBT. Throw in a mandated small charge insurance fee and some form of machine identity. Plus helmet. Sort of moped but easier to do and cheaper. Highly optimistic though. Raod use only.

25mph makes it an electric motorbike/moped in all but name, that means more reckless behaviour and more harm to the rider and others around them no matter how much training you give them.

Honestly never had any issues with clipping into one sided SPD, like most things you just get used to flipping round which you still need to do with double sided and like straps and clips before you just punt it round and in your foot goes. Had the Dura Ace and Ultegra, sold them both as seemed to be attracting high prices, then went to Wellgo magnesium's which were a tripped down lightweight singe sided out and out road pedal (I still wasn't keen on SPD-R or LOOK variants, also used Wellgo R713 which were a PD-7410 copy and had very nice bearings.

these days I'm happier with double sided, use M530s on the gravel bike (£27 2 years ago through Halfords so bought three pairs) and XT8000 XC on the touring/audax bike, will only ever use single sided for out and out 'race' bike riding.

Brucey wrote:to which I'd add that in the clarty UK weather, shiny pedal spindles look pretty to start with, but soon go rusty and allen-key only pedal spindles are not a good idea if the pedals might get seized in the cranks.

How much do stainless steel spindles rust with no intervention? But who even cares except those that will wipe their spindles or use preventative measures in any case. AK only pedals are ok if one applies anti seize compound of your favoured flavour, and these days many people are just sending their bikes to the bike shop.
Personally I won't take a pedal spanner with me when touring as a 6mm AK is more than enough.

nomm wrote:I used to own a pair of these on a former bike and they were great. For some reason I think I sold them with the bike sale, thinking I would buy the Shimano ES600, which I never got round to doing, as they were getting a bit of a slating due to the changes made over the a600s.

So, needing some new pedals I did the usual search online and can't find a single pair available? I can find the ES600s for as cheap as £50 but the A600s seem to not exist. Someone on Ebay wants £75 for a well used pair (the only pair on there)

They're showing as in stock here https://www.sunsetmtb.co.uk/shop/index. ... ct_id=4487 and here https://www.alfjonescycles.co.uk/produc ... ls-pda600/ or you could try the A520s for a fair bit less

thanks for all replies.
Spoke bed wasn't damaged before, the wheels are cleaned fairly meticulously and regularly so no cracks before and nothing around any of the others.
I'm sorely tempted to keep running it until it properly goes but may as well just salvage what I can and be safe, the run down to the supermarket/next town is a fast descent and quite bumpy at the bottom so it's only going to exacerbate things, it'd be going onto the commuter as a replacement so is likely to get heavier loads than the bike it has come from.

I don't do wheel building, don't think I have the patience or the talent to do it though it would be very helpful in terms of sorting wheels out for my exact needs without the need to go to a wheel builder.
so either I find someone who can build onto a rim or I just sell the bits, it's probably less expensive just buying another wheel - hence the wanted ad.

PH wrote:

The utility cyclist wrote:How can you tell if what you are applying is actually doing any good?

You can't. A rusty frame proves that whatever you did doesn't prevent rust, but a non rusty frame is just a source of anecdote.
Take a guess and act accordingly, what's so hard to understand about others guessing differently?

That's a bit of an aggressive response!
I merely asked how a bike one looks after, as in it's precious enough to want to inhibit rust, could get enough water/moisture ingress, why is that so hard to understand as a simple question that deserves a respectful answer?

I never understood why people used rust inhibitors if the bike was good enough to be looked after, what aspect of use allows water to ingress to such a degree that rust is going to present a problem?
I rode a Raleigh Record Sprint as a commuter, utility, touring plus weekend bike for 11 years in all weathers, never had any rust issues.

How can you tell if what you are applying is actually doing any good?

Never had a pulled spoke before so.
This wheel suffered a walloping into a deep depression at a mini rbt, was focusing more on the 40 ton HGV bearing down on me from the left and just didn't see the grey disguised gouge in the grey road so I hit the edge of it with my full weight on the saddle Managed to ride the 15 miles back without problem just a bit of adjustment on the brake to stop the pad hitting the rim but actually not that much out but there's a bit of a hop obviously.

Could I continue to ride this as is and simply straighten it out a bit and put up with the hop, is it worth trying to compress the lifted bit of rim up as well or is it simply a case of salvaging the Deore hub and spokes? It'd be for utility/commuting duties for the most part including 30+mph descents, tyre would be 32mm folding if that might have any bearing.

At 95kg I ride 80psi front with a true 28mm (Giant PSL2 folder) and 80psi rear in the 32mm, this is on my daily with rack/guards/pannier attached always. That said if I'm a bit tardy the pressures can go down significantly and post reinflation the bike is a bit more sprightly.

After your nasty incident might it sometimes be a case were we ourselves over interpret what has happened and a small twitch that might not even resonate becomes a doubt in our mind as being more than what it actually is? Post big off might not that trigger in our heads as something more serious? Not trying to say nothing happened, but I've been guilty of over analysis/giving too much value in a situation post having a bad experience and upon reflection thought I was being a bit sensitive/over egged what actually happened.

cycle tramp wrote:Thanks go to Urban Cyclist for my new handlebars. As soon as I saw them I thought they suited the character of 'the blat' more than the ones I was currently using. I used them for the first time today
Described as moustache, I think the 30 back sweep is perhaps better described as roadster - certainly they wouldn't have looked out of place on my Grandfather's Raliegh Wayfarer... I'm guessing that in the 'everything old is new again' world of the cycling products they are 'on trend'. They certainly lend my bike a sense of class and style (I'll put a stop to that next Spring, when I'll paint the 'bars three conflicting colours and cover them in stake board stickers)
My thanks go to the Urban Cyclist for selling me the 'bars and also for the saddle and the cranks too (bought a good couple of years ago).
That's the great thing about this forum..... if you stick around long enough on this forum you eventually end up with enough parts to build a bicycle

You're welcome and urban cyclist is probably as fitting as Utility Cyclist