Cycling UK Forum

Paulatic wrote: ↑11 Dec 2023, 12:46pm Millions of vehicles on our roads every day with hydraulic brakes. Proven reliability all day long and if I understand correctly you think a bit of wire is more reliable

You'd probably find a bit sketchy trying to slow down a car from 60mph for a bend with wire actuated brakes. So the extra faff of maintaining hydraulic brakes is well worth it on a car/ motorbike.

Not a problem on a push bike ( unless you had a very big piece of cake at the tea stop)

There's no way I'd tour on hydraulic brakes. Just keep it simple.

Don't put all of those crisps in one sandwich.

Yes one piece AW axles available:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... aw-hsa370/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... mm-hsa107/
I used the latter in my 6 speed AW Brompton setup.....although apparently [ as advised by Brucey] axle/sun breakage more likely on larger wheels and not essential on a 16" wheel.

( I ran an AW in my SRF5(W) hubbed wheel for a while.......so Brucey is correct and should work vice versa)

With respect to the post April 1984 steel hubshells...with the unhelpfully large upstand.....the LH ballcup is pressfit and .... I have been told......can be driven/pressed out......so if you can find a pre 1984 donor hub you can still use a made up wheel to add a S5, S1, S2 ( &FW)

Also useful if LH cup race is pitted.

Still probably useful to know what the folder is ?...perhaps a picture if not a common one.

(I had considered a FW 5 speed conversion for my Brompton, but decided probably not sensible as the LH side of axle is a bit vulnerable, particularly when folded. Can't see a bell crank surviving, or a Lauterwasser approach . Both would need some form of protection.)

Nicholas wrote: ↑7 Dec 2023, 12:33pm

Pinhead wrote: ↑7 Dec 2023, 8:45am Been riding a bike for 50 years never used one

Good luck correctly installing carbon components without a torque wrench.

Simple solution there: don't buy carbon stuff.
( I would say this.....as a retrogrouch.....but it's not recyclable, so not sustainable)

Brucey wrote: ↑7 Dec 2023, 12:19pm er, I'll say it again,for anybody not paying attention the first time; you only need to buy one torque wrench provided you have the right extensions.

But, I don't undestand:

1) how you can extend the arm of a clicky one (presumably to increase leverage for higher torque)

2) if there are clicky or bar ones that are accurate enough within the range 2Nm to 50/60Nm ( which seems be about the range needed.

My old bar type one has a nice long arm, but a range of 0 to 150 ft lb ( so if I'm correct 0 - 110 Nm)[ Edit: this is incorrect and should be 0-204 NM as pointed out below] . I have presumed ( without any real knowledge) it'll be too innacurate for say 2- 20Nm.....(particularly now it has a loose pointer bar).....but even before I only used it for higher torques....or to calibrate my head/arm freestylee efforts.

(With all the comment on getting preload right on bearings....I had been wondering If I should be using a torque wrench more)

This post looks useful

viewtopic.php?p=1328715&hilit=aw+shell#p1328715

[Edit -and this one:
viewtopic.php?p=1458870#p1458870]

Probably helpful to know what year AW you've got? Printed on the shell of the older steel AW's.....or is it a later Alloy hub AW?

& what is the folder?

No No. I Was only joking. I guess I can risk £4 on having a go with the angle grinder.

Main thing is there is a sprocket solution.........until that is water gets in and knackers the hub/ bearing races.

Brucey wrote: ↑29 Nov 2023, 8:58pm ..........[by somebody competent] ........

Oh! ........Well rub it in then !! ......... but I reckon I'm just about competent with a file ......so 15 mins for me

If anyone has seen any of the correct 15t ones ? Well you can save yourself some grinding.

Just found this on youtube says no need to shape the 15t and recommends a 1mm spacer
https://youtu.be/kigJc-FXpjc?feature=shared

(The 14t sprocket is one I had for another hub....but useful for testing the stack height....and the wheel is the spare for my Missus's Brommie......as I'm having fun with the FW on mine)

[Apols in advance......I can't stand the Brilliant Bikes video house style....but they often useful)

As I have the wheel, sprockets & spacers at hand, I tried the current SA sprockets with either a 1.5mm or 1mm spacer.

1.5mm: 1 mm: May get away with a 1.5mm. Circlip not as snug as on SRAM stack. With 1 mm circlip very snug. I think both will work with the Brompton derailleur/pusher.
( I'm fairly sure I ran my AW 6 speed Brompton set-up for a short while with a 3mm gap, and whilst it looked like it should rub, it didn't and changed ok)

When I get to having to do this I think I'll go for the 1.5mm spacer and angle grind or more probably file a little width off the 15t SA sprocket. I'm not sure I trust my accuracy with an angle grinder ( and at £ 3 - £4 a pop !! )

Brucey wrote: ↑24 Nov 2023, 8:03pm further to my earlier post, you can buy suitable cassette sprockets [for modification] for about £10 a pair in 13-15t.

(For the sake of completeness.....and as I needed to check for my spares box)
Photo of original Brompton SRAM 6 speed sprockets ( dark colour) and of the available Sturmey Archer sprockets (silver) below: All are are 3/32" sprockets, but the original Brompton SRAM 13t and the currently available SA 15t and 13t have a built in spacer of 1 mm ( so take up 3mm in the stack). The original SRAM 15t is flat ( so 3/32" or 2mm) and is also shaped to aid gear change. (the used one shown is still a close match in profile to the last unused one in my spares box)

The original SRAM sprocket stack also has a 2.2mm spacer......so 3.2mm between sprockets. That means you will need a spacer of 1.2mm, or close to that, with the current sprockets.

I believe in previous threads rogerzilla or someone confirmed that the gears will change without shaping the standard 15t profile....but will change better if ground to the profile above.

( I doubt anyone will notice but the silver SA's above are actually 15t & 14t......but the 13t appears to be the same profile with the built in 1mm of spacing)

Oh yes. I find it easiest to apply with the bike upside down, applying to chain at the jockey wheel. Even in a stand I found it a more innacurate pain applying to the chain at the cassette.