Search found 5784 matches

by andrew_s
8 Nov 2023, 11:52pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: S&S Couplings with Hydraulic Brakes ?
Replies: 9
Views: 2239

Re: S&S Couplings with Hydraulic Brakes ?

Brucey wrote: 3 Nov 2023, 11:13am IIRC you can buy 'dry break' hydraulic couplings [at some vast expense] for this purpose
Here you are: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/100- ... -supplied/
Reduced to a mere £195, plus labour and parts for getting it fitted.
You also have to pick brakes that use DOT fluid, which probably means SRAM rather than Shimano if drop bars.
by andrew_s
7 Nov 2023, 1:04am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Weird spoke configuration
Replies: 33
Views: 3633

Re: Weird spoke configuration

I'd call it bad, and done to be different.

Advantages:
Save the weight of one spoke perhaps (they will be a little shorter than in a regular 32 spoke wheel).

Disadvantages:
If a spoke breaks the wheel will likely go further out of true, possibly enough to not fit between the brake blocks.
Slightly higher chance of crunching the rim on a bad pothole.
If you meet a suicidal rabbit, it may get in the gap rather than just bouncing off the spokes, in which case it will be carried up to the fork crown and you'll go over the front of the bike.
by andrew_s
1 Nov 2023, 1:33am
Forum: Touring & Expedition
Topic: Cassette Lock-ring Tool For Touring
Replies: 19
Views: 4155

Re: Cassette Lock-ring Tool For Touring

m-gineering wrote: 31 Oct 2023, 8:03pm Nope. The NBT2 and others use the slot in the dropout to get purchase. Thru-axle frames do not have the slot so you'll need something else
Good point.

However, I think the NBT2 is the only one that relies on the dropout slot. The Hypercracker and Stein don't, and memory of advertising photos says the Unior doesn't either.
However, neither the Stein nor the Unior have much of a gap between splined ring and bracing point and the thru-axle surround may be too thick, so the Hypercracker would be the best bet, if one can be found.
by andrew_s
31 Oct 2023, 6:13pm
Forum: Touring & Expedition
Topic: Cassette Lock-ring Tool For Touring
Replies: 19
Views: 4155

Re: Cassette Lock-ring Tool For Touring

The Stein, Hypercracker and Unior tools all work the same way as the NBT2 (a splined ring attached to a thin plate that fits between axle locknut and dropout, which is prevented from rotating with the cassette by being braced against some part of the frame), and that whatever prevents the NBT2 from working will also prevent the alternative tools from working.

I would therefore suggest looking for an alternative hub that allows easy freehub + cassette removal.

If I guess correctly what the problem is, a suitably sized washer to go around the thru axle between the frame and the NBT2 may help.

p.s. - another reason to carry on with my pre-thru-axle Disc Trucker for touring, rather than try something new and lighter.
by andrew_s
26 Oct 2023, 2:55pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Bar end friction shifters
Replies: 44
Views: 6257

Re: Bar end friction shifters

Microshift do bar end shifters in 8/9/10/11 speed index/friction changeable.
e.g.
https://www.microshift.com/models/bs-t09/

Seemed about £70 for 9-speed on a very brief google.
by andrew_s
23 Oct 2023, 9:35pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Mudflaps. What do you use?
Replies: 72
Views: 8639

Re: Mudflaps. What do you use?

For the front, I use half of a rubber hot water bottle.
The top is contoured to fit the mudguard well, it's wide enough (~ 6") and long enough (within 1 - 1.5" of the ground) to catch most of what's splashed sideways when the front wheel goes through a puddle or spun off the middle of the wheel on wet roads, flexible enough that catching on things isn't a problem, and heavy enough that blowing backwards isn't much of a problem.
Image

For the rear, I usually use a strip cut from an old 135 column listing paper binder, much the same stuff as the RAW flaps. About 3" wide and about 4" short of reaching the ground. Not fitted at present, on account of a lack of group riding.
The rear flap doesn't need to be very wide, but it should be long enough that a following rider can't see your tyre.
Image
I found the reflective rear flap by the side of the road. At the time, I thought it was off the back of a lorry, but I've since found it's off the side of a reflective bollard. Unfortunately it cracked too easily to last very long (3 or 4 months).
by andrew_s
23 Oct 2023, 12:11am
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Attaching pannier bags on bike without fittings
Replies: 19
Views: 5231

Re: Attaching pannier bags on bike without fittings

Those Blackburn fittings went into the triangular hole in Campag-style dropouts.
Dropout styles have changed, and most frames wouldn't take them even if you found some, or made some.
by andrew_s
14 Oct 2023, 1:07pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Cheap chain and sprocket.
Replies: 21
Views: 3951

Re: Cheap chain and sprocket.

Brik wrote: 14 Oct 2023, 12:17pmTo be honest I'm usually ghost pedaling and the motor is providing most of the (continuous) torque so I don't think the wear will be so concentrated in those certain spots.
Probably correct.

There's also the anti-drop pin to consider, if there is one. Once it's no longer behind the crank arm, there's a chance that any chainring tattoo could come with added blood.
You can double the life of a single chainring by turning it round to swap inside to outside. With no front mech and a multi-speed cassette/freewheel, chainline isn't that important.


You bought freewheel, chain and chainring as a job lot.
I'd suggest using them as a job lot until they start to give problems (assuming there's no rarity value in the freewheel).

The reason for imposing a wear limit on a chain is that a worn chain wears the freewheel/cassette sprockets to match, and if left too long, a new chain will skip on the rear sprockets. Ignore that, and the chainring will also wear, until that eventually starts slipping.
The theory is that sprockets & chainrings are expensive compared to chains, so it's financially worthwhile discarding a chain with a fair bit of working life left in it in order to preserve the chainring & sprockets.
In this case, with replacement chains at £8, and given that (IME) a chain/sprockets/chainring combo will keep working past 5 times the mileage of the normal replacement wear limit before something starts slipping, you could end up spending double what you'd spent on the job lot just on replacement chains.
by andrew_s
13 Oct 2023, 10:47pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Drop in replacement frame surly LHT 60cm urgent
Replies: 46
Views: 5389

Re: Drop in replacement frame surly LHT 60cm urgent

531colin wrote: 11 Oct 2023, 9:21am Spa are also listing Trucker frames in both rim and disc brake; I didn’t check size availability.
The listing shows 2021 Disc Truckers in all sizes, and 2019 LHT in 42 cm/26" wheel only.

A drawback of the Disc Trucker is that it's through axle, which means new wheels as well as the frame.
by andrew_s
9 Oct 2023, 11:07pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: From 126mm to 130mm - only adjust dropouts instead of cold setting the frame?
Replies: 35
Views: 4623

Re: From 126mm to 130mm - only adjust dropouts instead of cold setting the frame?

Brucey wrote: 9 Oct 2023, 5:05pm [
Thank you very much......So many things to note... Maybe too much for doing anything to the frame. :)
So, can I have everyone here vote simply - should I cold set the frame or not? :D
FWIW for some years I had my roadbike set to 128mm since then I could use almost any rear wheel

cheers
Brucey
Some manufacturers have also sold frames set to 132.5 mm, on the basis that you can then use either road or MTB hubs.
by andrew_s
9 Oct 2023, 4:12pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Biggest possible cassette with compact chainset
Replies: 18
Views: 3068

Re: Biggest possible cassette with compact chainset

Cassettes up to 50T exist, together with rear mechs to suit. They are intended for 1x use, but the cassette & rear mech neither know nor care what you've got at the chainset end. The mech capacity will be 50-11=39T, so with a 50/34 chainset, you'll run out of chainwrap using a sprocket smaller than 25T with the small ring, and want to stay on the big ring until you reach about 34 on the cassette.
You may also find a new chain isn't long enough, and have to buy two, and an extra quicklink.

Personally, I'd look at the cost of replacement cassettes, and fit a 110/74 square taper triple with 46 or 44 & 24T rings fitted middle and inner.
by andrew_s
30 Sep 2023, 11:00pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Things I should have purchased 30 years ago but was too mean at the time
Replies: 60
Views: 5648

Re: Things I should have purchased 30 years ago but was too mean at the time

ncutler wrote: 30 Sep 2023, 10:45am #1 Chain link removal tool.

chain pliers.JPG
Chain quicklinks didn't exist 30 years ago, and therefore neither did the pliers, so meanness doesn't apply

(the 3-piece links for singlespeed chains did, but they don't need those pliers)
by andrew_s
24 Sep 2023, 9:03am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Super bright road light? (MTB lights on the road)
Replies: 33
Views: 1883

Re: Super bright road light? (MTB lights on the road)

rareposter wrote: 23 Sep 2023, 5:00pm
mjr wrote: 23 Sep 2023, 11:38am Lumens are pretty much nonsense. They're how much light is output, not how much light actually is directed to anything useful in front of you, even ignoring the rampant "rounding up" of lumens by certain manufacturers
It's a legal requirement to specify lumens and it has to be correct. The old method of specifying wattage was power draw for non-LED lights.
There is no UK legal requirement to specify lumens, or anything else, beyond general "don't mislead the consumer" trading standards stuff.
If you think there is, tell us which law, with a link (laws are all available online these days).
by andrew_s
22 Sep 2023, 8:28pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Super bright road light? (MTB lights on the road)
Replies: 33
Views: 1883

Re: Super bright road light? (MTB lights on the road)

In terms of being non-dazzling whist still being able to see enough to make good progress, STVZO is the way to go.

If trying to avoid dazzling when using an un-shaped non-STVZO beam by turning the power down, or by angling the light downwards, you've got to make enough of an adjustment that it will have a significant effect on your own ability to see where you're going.

STVZO battery lights up to £200:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lightinglig ... usb-light/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting/bu ... ower-bank/
https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/power ... ight-16240 (lezyne)
Prices may be lower elsewhere.
Check out the available brightness levels and associated run times.
On dark, unlit country roads with no competing lighting, I find about 30 lux to be a suitable minimum for making good progress. In wet weather, on fast downhills, or if your night vision keeps getting spoiled by other lights, you'll want more. You'd use the lowest levels (15 lux?) in areas with street lighting.

Another possibilty you might look at is using an STVZO e-bike headlight with the battery pack from your Gloworm XS.
Some examples: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-ebike/
You'd have to make sure that the battery pack voltage is within spec for the light you select, and do something about plug compatibility (I'd suggest a short length of cable with a battery pack plug/socket on one end and a light plug/socket on the other, rather than chopping and replacing a plug/socket.
If the light voltage allows down to 5V, a USB power bank would also be usable.
by andrew_s
16 Sep 2023, 1:07am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Rim size for 28mm tyres
Replies: 11
Views: 7413

Re: Rim size for 28mm tyres

Cugel wrote: 8 Dec 2022, 7:24pmThis will increase the width of the tyre to more than 28mm and give the ability to have a lower pressure in them, giving more comfort and better road grip.
Not necessarily.
As far as being able to reduce pressure is concerned, what matters is not the tyre width, but the height of the tyre above the rim.

An inflated tyre is circular in cross section.
If you take a narrow rim that contacts the tyre at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock, very little of the tyre cross section is within the rim.
If you take a wide rim that contacts the tyre at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock, much more of the tyre cross section is within the rim.

The length of the cross section circumference between the two contact points is the same for any given model & size of tyre, so the diameter of the cross section is necessarily larger for the wider rim.

The question is whether the height you gain from the increased diameter is more than the height you lose through having more of the cross section within the rim, or less.
This is less than obvious without resorting to pencil diagrams and a calculator, but the limiting cases (6 & 6 o'clock vs 3 & 9) give the same height, so rim width may well make no difference to the lowest usable pressure.