Cycling UK Forum

From what I remember of 70's Campag stuff an 8mm AF spanner would fit most of the hex head bolts. As others have commented it looks annoyingly familiar. I think it most likely that there was a spring loaded ball bearing behind it, or something similar, perhaps part of the non return valve from a track pump.
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Thanks for that. Most tents will deform to a certain extent in the wind but you would hope that an inflatable pole wouldn't fail catstrophically. I guess the jury is still out but I don't think I'll be buying one just yet. Not having to carry poles would be the attraction for me as they're quite awkward things to pack, plus I already carry the means to inflate the tubes.

Bmblbzzz wrote: ↑28 Apr 2023, 11:11am

Norman H wrote: ↑28 Mar 2023, 2:54pm One left field suggestion would be one of the new breed of inflatable lightweight tents. Vango's Force 10 Hydrogen is getting on for Akto prices but Alpkit have a couple of more affordable alternatives. I'm just waiting for some user feedback from those that have tried them.

I observed a few inflatable tents at York Rally last summer. Being York Rally, it got quite windy, but nothing you'd call a storm, and the inflatables did not stand up to it. Simply collapsed, albeit slowly.

That's useful to Know. Were these inflatable tents of the lightweight backpacking type? Also did the inflatable poles actually loose pressure or merely get flattened in the wind?

I think the main reason for using three cells in series is because it reduces manufacturing costs. Most white LEDs have a forward voltage of around 3V and need a supply in excess of that to operate. It's possible to run them from two conventional AA or AAA cells but it requires more sophisticated circuitry to achieve the necessary voltage.

It might also be an air bleed screw from a grease gun.

It looks like a drain or filler plug from a hydraulic jack.

A picture's worth a thousand words.

rotavator wrote: ↑24 Apr 2023, 7:28pm
It basically shook the tent down, guylines pulled off pegs, pegs pulled out. Pegs were heavy steel shepherd's crook shaped: may be not the best but sturdy.

I think you've identified the problem here. Tunnel tents generally don't perform as well as domes and other geodesic designs in windy conditions, they rely heavily on guy line security under such circumstances. Did you also deploy the internal tension bands (TBS) that Vango supply with their tunnel tents?

I know that hindsight is a wonderful thing but it also pays to be prepared. Manufacturers often make cost cutting compromises when it comes to specifying pegs, and on budget tents it's worth replacing cheap pegs with something better. Aluminium Y or V section pegs are a good general purpose choice but it's also worth carrying more specialist pegs to cope with varying ground conditions. Extra guy line material also takes up very little space and can be used in emergencies to improvise extra security.

The main trick to correct setting up low profile canti's is to get the straddle wire as low as possible. For a more detailed explanation see this thread: viewtopic.php?t=57410 It's a bit of a long read but well worth the effort.

If you have Shimano's fixed length straddle links you may need to ditch them in favour of separate straddle wires and yokes in order to achieve good braking performance.

The conical washers come in pairs, one convex and one concave, and one pair will be thicker than the other. Due to their conical nature you can articulate the shoe to achieve toe in and depending on where you fit the thick and/or thin pair you can compensate for various rim widths and arrange that the shoes meet the rim as close to 90°as possible.

The Park tools site is a good source of instructional videos: https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help

Psamathe wrote: ↑14 Apr 2023, 12:09pm

Norman H wrote: ↑13 Apr 2023, 10:16am I can recommend this date based energy bar recipe:

https://www.naturaldelights.com/recipes ... nergy-bars

I note (or have missed) that the recipe is for bars that are 310 Calories per portion - except it does nor seem to say how many "portions" the recipe creates (i.e. not how big a "portion/serving" is)!

Ian

The 310 Calories is based on the assumption that the quantities in the recipe will be sufficient for 12 servings.

If you want more of a challenge why not begin in Exeter and cycle over Dartmoor to the start of the C2C in Plymouth. Unless you're desperate to begin your C2C on Plymouth Hoe I'd recommend joining the route somewhere north of the city, even at Yelverton. At the end take the train back to Exeter from Barnstaple.

I can recommend this date based energy bar recipe:

https://www.naturaldelights.com/recipes ... nergy-bars

Jon Lucas wrote: ↑10 Apr 2023, 2:09pm There used to be a small foot ferry that crossed directly from Fort William to the opposite bank. Does that still operate? If so, it would at least cut down 16 miles (8 to the end of the loch and 8 back) that a cyclist needed to divert onto, although it wouldn't help with avoiding the very busy main road into Fort William..

Yes, the Camusnagaul ferry is a viable alternative for foot passengers and cyclists. Monday to Saturday there are about five crossings per day from the Fort William side and one less in the opposite direction, with no service on Sunday. Check the Cal Mac website for more detailed sailing schedule.

Removing the oil is the easy part, all of the above solutions will work. The difficulty is removing the dark stain which is caused by wear debris from whatever the oil has been used to lubricate. Typically more than one conventional washing cycle is required.

It may seem counter intuitive but fats and oils are also very effective at removing oil stains. Use olive oil or sunflower oil, even lard or butter will work. Rub it in with your fingers and then remove by conventional washing cycles.

The same method works well for removing oil based paint stains from your hands. Use Johnsons baby oil rubbed into into the paint and then washed off with soap and water. It's much kinder on the hands than using solvents.

Just a word of caution if that's your bike in the picture. The straddle wire isn't correctly seated in the cable hanger. It should sit below the two 2.5mm allen screws and you should back off the allen screws to achieve this. Once you're satisfied that the brake is correctly adjusted, including even spring tension on both brake arms, apply the brake firmly a couple of times to centre the cable hanger then lightly nip up the allen screws to trap the straddle cable.