Cycling UK Forum

This Sunday morning would be good for me; I'm OK if it's cold, but would shy off if there's snow. Angel's Cafe in Mildenhall get's good reviews, and looks to be open on a Sunday morning - do you know it ?

If there's room for another, I'd be keen to join you on a local ride with my Performer JC70 ?
I rode to the Mildenhall Rally a couple of years ago, with my two daughters (one on a Saracen Tufftrax, the other on a Kett), and chatted to Kevin, and Mark (IIRC - who had triked up from Surrey ?), but couldn't go last year.
I'm south of Newmarket, but often get up to Tuddenham early on a Sunday, and would happily detour for a local "greasy spoon" if coffee and bacon sandwiches are available (wouldn't mind betting it's locally sourced bacon too, judging from the farmland on the road from Cavenham to Mildenhall).

An update - as a temporary measure to reduce the noise from the new Al idler, I've done the last 100 miles with two rubber "O" rings on either side of the central "sprocket".

As OB noted, this newer Performer power idler looks as if the chain runs on its sideplates on the channels either side of the central sprocket teeth, and the consequence is an off-putting "jangle" when pedalling even gently. My thought was that a rubber "O"ring in each channel would cushion the sideplates, and reduce the noise.

I'll try to link to a picture of the idler, removed from the trike this evening, 100-miles later. What I see is that both rings have accommodated the sideplates within a self-created groove on the external circumference of each rubber ring. I'm not sure how long these will last, but I can say that for the whole time they've been on I've not noticed the noise of the new Al idler.



Not expensive - I found them on Ebay, 10 off, delivered for £1.48


METRIC NITRILE RUBBER O-RINGS 3.1 MM DIAMETER, 44 or 45mm ID

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131108205412

Update:

I've been out for a ride this morning with the new idler in place. The noise of chain on the metal wheel wasn't as noticeable as I feared - but it can be heard.

I had attempted to compare how noisy the new aluminium and the old delrin(albeit broken-sided) idlers were yesterday evening, but the first problem that presented was incorrect gear shifting with the new wheel (and newer 11-34T megarange cassette) in place. Despite a good while spent checking H/L screws, barrel adjusters and even the "b" screw, the shifting was poor, and noisy. Only by replacing the cassette with the original did I achieve an improvement.

OK, so checking the fit of the chain on the large front ring (which never gets a lot of use !!) made me suspicious that I'd experienced one of the symptoms of chain wear. Mixed feelings about that - annoyance that I'd missed something so important, but also one of achievement in having used the trike so often I'd actually worn something out !! I had a quick check on its mileage since new (2009) - about 4-5000. I'm sure I read that trikes' chains last longer than ordinary bikes, so it may be that I need to up my cleaning regime ?

The second problem that prevented direct comparison of noise from idler was when putting all the clean components back together, I gave a liberal coating of Muc-Off spray PTFE lube to the chain. I hadn't appreciated that the solvents in this lubricant may well affect the "O" ring that straddles the middle of the channel on the Delrin idler. The result was that within several rotations of the crank the "O" ring had a consistency that could only be described as "sweaty licorice", and hence failed to stay located under the centre of the chain.

The rides tomorrow and Tuesday may give me chance to try again - I have a spare "O"ring, and by then the volatile substances in the spray are likely to have evaporated.

I'm reserving judgement on the new Al idler sprocket - time will tell. But does anyone else have "O"ring banded Delrin idlers, or is it just peculiar to the older Performers ?

Looking at the new idler in front of me now: quick measurement shows there's barely 2mm thickness for the base of the chain channel, so there's no possibility to remove more metal either side of the sprocket teeth.

As for fettling one with a Sturmey Archer sprocket - I'm on that track already, but starting using a Dicta fixie sprocket, 3/32, 14T. No need with that to file off the three internal prongs, but I will still need a route to mount onto a centralised bearing with ID of 12mm. Plastic discs for either side of assembly from two blu-ray coasters (BluRay discs appear to be thicker and more resilient than DVD or CDs).

Another route forward idea - came from this website:

http://imajeenyus.com/mechanical/20110913_bicycle_sprockets/index.shtml

....just need to learn to weld and all the other stuff

OldBloke wrote:Hoarder,

Does the chain run on the rollers on the sprocket teeth or does the side plates of the chain run on the metal at each side of the sprocket?


OB

Makes perfect sense. As the newly-cleaned chain is still in its Ice Cream Pot patiently waiting for assembly time, it was easy to check. Unfortunately, it does look as if the the sprocket teeth do not raise the chain sidepieces above the bottom of the "channel" - so I reckon mine will be as yours, OB.

What a disappointment. Well, sort of. It's better than having no working trike. But I was hoping for a bearing-ed sprocket that would run as quietly/reliably/truly as it could, but I fear I may be accompanying OB's Trike F idler noise.

I too had looked at 10mm bearing-ed skate wheels, and a number of YouTube videos harnessing power drills, cutting implements and old urethane wheels to create a channel for the chain. But even in these cases the chain is running on its side plates, rather than correctly (IIRC) on its pins. And as XAP mentioned, these are frequently 10mm, not 12 - as needed by TW Bent/Performer.

SO - I'll be expecting some added noise when I run this new sprocket - if so, I'll now go back to one of my other options, to source a 3/32 sprocket 14 or 15t that could be mounted on a bearing with an ID of 12mm. Presumably OB, if I find one, you'll be interested too ?

I recently swapped out my Performer JC-70 Trike's 700c rear wheel for a newly built 26" replacement (made up with components from various sources).
The idea had been to increase the clearance between tyre and mudguard to reduce risk of mud and debris collecting whilst riding country roads around here.
The pleasure and pride that comes from riding on a wheel that you laced-up yourself was short-lived; generally, I stop for only three things - horses, cake....... and loud grating noises. It was the latter that had prevented any rides since the beginning of the month.

The cause - fracture of the lateral wing of power idler (yep, the delrin cracked on one side of the casing). Rubber O-ring - no trace !!
The solution - mail order from Performer, Taiwan. Christine at Performer promised an improved replacement (CNC Al), and it would be a straight swap.
Having returned from holidaying in Norfolk last night, I find the part has arrived, and I'm ready to reassemble the drivetrain.

I've written up the dimensions below - once I find a way of posting photos, I'll add a link. But for those who have older TW Bents / Performer trikes or recumbents of similar design, there is now an option of a toothed-sprocket replacement for the power-side idler wheel, and in replacing it, so will end the need to replace the central rubber O-ring on the original (which does wear out).

Photos now uploaded

http://s991.photobucket.com/user/jonjonbell/library/Performer%20JC70%20chain%20wheel%20idler%20sprocket

Performer Power Sprocket - Part number: PL-09
14-toothed CNC Al idler, bearing included
Direct replacement for broken delrin original (non-toothed, rubber O-ring version), as dimensions near identical, and fits directly on to Performer's 12mm stub axle mount underneath the seat.

Outer diameter - 64.5mm
Inner diameter (to base of tooth) - 44.5mm

Outer width - 12.1mm
Inner width (channel for chain) - approx. 9mm

Bearing inner diameter - 12mm
Bearing outer diameter - 24mm
Bearing thickness - 6mm

USD 28 + USD 6 shipping to UK (it arrived within 7 days of ordering).

For details of availability, email Christine - christine ampersat performer.com.tw


The item may also be an alternative to other toothed sprockets - it may be possible to replace the bearing with one of different ID, but same OD, to suit other 'bents' mounting points.

I own the non-suspension, direct-steering JC-70 trike from Performer - bought in 2009, new and in kit form, from an Ebay seller who had imported a handful to sell on.
Mine is like the existing offering, but minus the headrest. I think there is a non-suspension equivalent on Ebay, but I paid £800 for mine in 2009. I had considered KMX as a first-time buyer, but had been put off by their relatively low ground-clearance.

http://www.performer.com.tw/new/product ... cts_id=226

My experience has been very good - much like the reviewer on BROL, I used the supplied instruction booklet and a handful of other basic tools to put it together, and I didn't encounter any real problems. Two mistakes I made when assembling were apparent only once I had put some miles on it.
1. It was possible to assemble it with the cruciform being slightly out of perpendicular to the longitudinal frame - loosening the four hex bolts and rotating the frame slightly, and use of a large 90 degree protractor solved that problem.
2. Replacing the standard slick tyres with wider Marathons, and getting out and about on it regularly soon produced one bald tyre (through to the brown rubber casing) and one very worn counterpart. Yes, the tracking was out, and only solved through a series of rides where spanner, notebook and pencil were at the top of the pannierbag.

Last year I did just under 1500 miles on it; mainly early-morning rides averaging 12 miles, average speed about 11 mph. The previous year 1100 miles (I didn't keep a record of rides until 2012). It has benefited from the occasional tweak and clean, but appears to be no more or less unreliable than the other bikes we have. The absence of any dealers here in UK (well, none that I've seen) means I'm on my own with it, but Performer did offer a 5 year guarantee on the frame, for first owners, for what it's worth. The fact that it uses straightforward components should mean I can repair it or replace parts if required - actually, the absence of any stock accessories has been a plus - "fettling" (I'd never come across that word before) brackets for aluminium tube pannier rack stays (?btw, has anyone else here got unexpected pleasure from learning to use a pipe-bender for the first time ?) and modifying mudguard brackets/mud flaps/rear rack/reflectors to suit has all been good.

From memory, the only failure was in 2012 when the bolt through the main chain roller (directly underneath the seat) worked loose whilst out one Sunday, On mine, its location is within the lower bracket for the seat, so not a quick fix. Thankful that I had a hex key tool, and it wasn't raining, I had no option but to start taking the trike apart. Since then, I have my own tube of threadlock.

I've ridden through the winter this year - no problems to report. Yes, mudguards could do with a little more clearance, and I need to clean the right front brake cable (it sticks in really cold weather). At £800 it was a good buy. At £1200, today ? Maybe, maybe not - what price for a low-mileage hardtail ICE ?

I'm with you on the opportunity to make yourself more visible by lighting up the flag. Adding an extra light there can't make you any less visible, and the only downside I've found is the need to periodically check the power level on one more set of batteries.

I couldn't easily find a UK supplier of a bright, flashing orange flag top, so made one up using various parts.
It is possible to light up the very top of your flag, without weighing it down too much, if you're happy to do a bit of DIY.

If you're not handy with a sewing machine, then having someone make you up a custom flag sounds a good idea - but I'd recommend sourcing some Scotchlite fabric and some Hi-Vis yellow, and having a flag made up with both fabrics, back to back. Now when it flaps in the wind there'll be a changing surface to reflect headlights. At the top of your flagpole, it'll stand out.

If you PM me, with an email address, I'll send over details of the parts used. And if you're ever anywhere near Newmarket, Suffolk then you'd be welcome to one of my spare flagpoles (I bought 25 from an Ebay seller several years ago ...... for pennies).

I'm making a Mk. 2 version now - but the original has done the job over the last month:

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=82002&start=15

Of course, some would say it makes my trike look ugly. But as I sit in front of it, I can't see what they're complaining about

I've been following the comments on this thread, and others that have appeared over the last year, and thought to share the results from a day's tinkering. Pictured below is the first attempt at a lighted flag pole for my early morning rides out and around on the country lanes. Further down is a videolink to show how much I have been relying on reflected light for visibility.




I’m not writing this to argue that having a flag on a ‘bent is better – but for those of you who are interested, it is possible to cobble together something that will announce to other road users’ the movement of a slow-moving vehicle beyond the upcoming bend in the road. The roads I choose to ride are country lanes between Newmarket and Bury St Edmunds, and like many rural roads in Suffolk, follow a less than straight path from A to B, are not always wide enough for two cars to pass, and are bordered by hedges that – even in winter – obscure the view of the road.

I already have a tall flag-pole and three flags (2 x Scotchlite/Hi-Vis Yellow, 1 x bright orange), which I choose to use whenever I’m out, day or night. What has concerned me with night-cycling has been an inability to see any of these unless light is reflected from them. Dog-walkers invariably point their torches at the ground ahead – unless they know there’s a vehicle approaching - and my experience is that oncoming motor-vehicles’ lights don’t pick me out until they’ve already turned the bend in the road.

4 x 30cm 12v yellow LED strip lights were purchased from Ebay & Amazon; I tried two versions, but found the “blocked” versions (looking more like a Lego strip, rather than the flat “tape”) suited better, as they can be twisted (see later). A 12v Lithium ion battery pack and charger, labelled as 4000mah (but I doubt it) DC-12400, was similarly sourced, together with a 12v single blinker unit (motorcycle type, two pin). Some low voltage cable (speaker cable) and cable ties, connector block and 2.1mm cctv male female power connectors completed the build.

I’ve mounted the 4 x LED strips at 90 degrees to each other, and then spiralled them by a further 90 degrees, from top to bottom, so that light is thrown out in a full 360 degree pattern. The blinker/flasher unit was removed from its casing, and the piezo-electric buzzer de-soldered from the PCB. It cycles on/off roughly 2x each second. Just right, I’d say.

(Click on photo below for link to photobucket video, ambient light)



It’s not so heavy it makes the 6mm fibreglass pole bend too much – the faster I ride, and stronger gusts of wind do bend the pole more than before, but not enough to worry about. This last week, I’ve tried it out and from 5 rides can say it’s doing the job, and lasts for more than the 2 hours of the longest ride.