Gear changes at the end of hill climbs.

[brianroseuk]

Quick query from someone just getting into cycling.
I’m starting to tackle hill climbs, and other than the fact that it’s daunting just getting the right technique, I seem to have an issue with my gear changing.
At the bottom of the climb I get into the easy gear on the front derailleur early and get into my rhythm. Come to the top and it flattens out and I move back up but the chain set won’t move across and there is this terrible grinding noise. I move back, keep pedalling for a few meters, on the flat, move back to the larger ring but the grinding starts again. I then have to get off the bike and move the chain part manually (lift back wheel, rotate pedals etc.)
My bike is a Boardman Sport (did the research for the limited budget I had) and its spec includes:
GEARING: Shimano Claris 16 speed
BRAKES: Tektro R315 Dual Pivot
CHAINSET: FSA Tempo Compact

I really want to practice the hill climbs as I find it a real buzz when I get to the top (I’m the same with my running) and I don’t want to avoid them due to some inexperience with my gear changes.
Any help or advice would be great. I’ve searched the forums but I can’t seem to find any posts on this matter.

[beardy]

It sounds like it needs a minor adjustment of your cable adjuster. It sounds like the front dérailleur isnt pushing the chain quite far enough to make it change on to the large ring.
The cable may have "stretched" since you bought the bike as it settles in with use.

Somewhere there will be a barrel adjuster on the cable (or its mounts) which you have to turn anti-clockwise looking at it from the side with the outer cable on, this makes the outer cable longer which makes the inner cable pull a bit more on the dérailleur.

[foxyrider]

Simples - you aren't pedaling quick enough to make the change! Stay in the small ring and go up the gears, when the gradient drops or you start going downhill it will change because the system isn't under pressure. Everyone does it at some time

[brianroseuk]

Thanks Beardy & Foxyrider.
I've had the bike about a month so would that happen so soon after a purchase?

I'll do some 'Youtubing' to see how its done.
Once again a rapid response on these forums. Much appreciated.

[Brucey]

you shouldn't expect to be able to make shifts (esp front shifts) under full load.

However if the behaviour has changed markedly since you first had the bike it probably needs a little adjustment in the shifter cables.

cheers

[eileithyia]

As said Cable stretch occurs and will affect the changes.
If you are trying to change from small ring to big while the chain is on the big ring at the back this will also affect how or if it changes.
You might get some 'grinding' if in the two big rings due to the way / angle the chain is running through the front changer.
Sometimes (I find) the front changer slightly over changes or at least depending on which rear cog i am in, i might have to slightly adjust the position of the front changer (using the handlebar lever) to stop the chain catching the front changer... this something that comes with time and experience.

But first of all get the post sale service done, most 'good' bike shops offer this as there is some slackening of cables and bolts might need checking for loosening off slightly.. it is usually free and part of the post sales service.. or should be.

Also i would not change straight up from small to big ring at the top of hill, I would get back up to pedal speed by changing up the rear gears first then once at middle of the block change the front gears... there's less strain that way.

[brianroseuk]

Again, thanks for the feedback from you all.
I shall try the pedaling techniques prior to looking into the cable adjustment. The bike shop offers the 6 week service check and I'll take them up on it.

I like to try and resolve any issues myself and the help I get on these forums is invaluable.

[531colin]

Get up the steep bit of the hill, and work your way up to about the middle cog at the back, still on the small chainring.
Then, give 2 big pushes to accelerate the bike, and then you can "ease off" pedalling while you change the front ring.
the rear shift is much easier, it takes only a fraction of a turn of the pedals, the front shift takes at least half a turn to complete

[jimlews]

Is the pinch bolt (cable to front changer) fully tight. If you have only had the bike a month it may still be suffering from Halfords pre sale set-up syndrom.

[cycloret]

In my experience it's easier under load to change gears at the rear than the front. Certainly I've been in the situation on a hills where I've been unable to change down at the front because there's been too much tension in the chain, as 531colin also describes. If there's a flatter part of the climb you have a brief opportunity to effect a front change.

I suspect we've all been there, you discover part way up a climb that you're in the wrong gear and are unable to change gear - often at the front, and you have to do a Wiggo/Mark Cavendish impersonation, out of the saddle giving it 110%.

[Malaconotus]

The 6 week service is because a new bike always has cables bed in. Reluctance to shift to a larger ring at the front is the most obvious symptom usually. Get it back to them to get the service done - 6 weeks should be a rough guide and they should do it earlier or later depending on use.

[BigG]

Foxyrider is right. You are probably not pedaling fast enough. The change up from the small to the middle ring is always the most troublesome change in a triple partly because it usually takes place when you are still going fairly steeply uphill. It is certainly best done at a fairly high cadence and with low pedal pressure. To ensure this, I usually change down the 2 or 3 sprockets needed first with the rear mech. This almost makes me spin out temporarily and I use this to make the second change with the front mech. This takes altogether about two turns of the cranks and you need enough momentum to allow this. Therefore I delay the change up for at least one more small sprocket with the inner ring than I would normally use on the way down through the gears.

[eileithyia]

Also remember, depending on your set up, you do not need to ride in the big all the time...... big ring for racing, little ring for everything else... though if you only have a relatively small big ring then that may not be practical.

[Tangled Metal]

Good advice so far. My view is try working the rear gears towards the small ring as the steepness of the climb diminishes then when you're descending a bit change the front gear to the big ring (assuming a double at the front). If that doesn't work try the barrel adjuster. Then third choice take the 6 week check up. I'd take that last one anyway but it's always nice when you sort it out yourself.

I had an issue with my rear derailleur changing up above the largest 2 cassette cogs when in the small front ring and 3 when in the big chainring. Annoying for a new bike but I sorted it in a minute by twisting the barrel adjuster. Easiest job ever if that's the real problem.

[brianroseuk]

Quick update.

Well I tackled the hill yesterday and taking on-board all your helpful advice I can safely say it worked.
Approached the top, went up a couple of gears on the rear, a couple of easy load rotations and 'hey-presto' front gear change completed.
Thank you all for the advice and yes the bike will go in for its 6-week check next week.