Nikwax Tech Wash - is there a cheaper or better option?

[mnichols]

I use nikwax wash-in rewaterproofer which is very good, and I understand that you can't use biological washing powder on waterproof clothes but the Tech Wash seems expensive at £14 per litre.

I have 3 waterproof jackets costing between £150 and £200 each so I don't want to ruin them or take any chances, but i don't think the Tech Wash does a very good job of getting stuff clean, or maintaining the colour

Is there a better or cheaper option?

[pete75]

Have a look at Grangers products. Was after some washing liquid for down jackets and the shop I was in had similarly sized Nikwax and Grangers for the same price. The difference was with Nikwax you had to use the whole lot whereas with Grangers it was just a cap full.

[pedalsheep]

If you go to the Nikwax website and complete the online quiz they will send you a free sample of Techwash, enough for 2 jackets I think.

[Sooper8]

If you go to the Nikwax website and complete the online quiz they will send you a free sample of Techwash, enough for 2 jackets I think.

+1. Mine arrived in post last week, about 10 days after completing the quiz

[Paulatic]

I've never used anything but soap flakes. A pound and something for a packet which lasts for years.
I dissolve 2 Tbs in a jug of warm water. When the washing machine is filling I open the soap drawer, carefully, and pour it in.

[beardy]

When the washing machine is filling I open the soap drawer, carefully, and pour it in.

Out of curiosity, why not pour it into the machine through the door before starting the wash?

[iow]

I've tried Thompson's waterseal - it was ineffective. ie. the rain was still wetting out the Gore-Tex after treatment as opposed to beading off.

[jk49]

+1 for soap, although I use Dp liquid soap flakes, bought them from one or other of the supermarkets, cheap as chips and it also makes a spray to kill black fly if thats your thing.

[pjclinch]

+1 for soap, although I use Dp liquid soap flakes, bought them from one or other of the supermarkets, cheap as chips

Yup, same here. Same thing, effectively, as the Nikwax and Grangers (it's soap, it doesn't even try to be particularly clever) and much cheaper.

Nothing wrong with soap flakes, but using it in liquid form to start with saves faffing about dissolving it yourself or foam out of the sides of your washing machine hilarity.

I use nikwax wash-in rewaterproofer which is very good, and I understand that you can't use biological washing powder on waterproof clothes

Use of detergent on waterproofs is widely misunderstood. Detergent should not damage the jacket or the DWR coat that helps water bead off the face, but if any traces are left then they work counter to the DWR. Detergent works by reducing surface tension so water can penetrate more easily and get it really clean, but the DWR works to make water bead up and run off. So if you use a detergent (Ecover Non-Bio Laundry Liquid seems to be fine) you need to make sure it gets a very thorough rinse, and if you use a cool iron or tumble afterwards that can help reactivate the DWR.

It's further worth noting that "reproofing" isn't anything much to do with the actual waterproofing, which is typically a membrane or coating attached to a face-fabric. The face fabric has a DWR to stop it saturating quickly, because once you have a solid wall of water on the outside of your breathable waterproof membrane/coating, no water vapour is going to get pushed through. Reproofing is another application of DWR.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4556 is highly recommended reading for this.

Pete.

[rjb]

When the washing machine is filling I open the soap drawer, carefully, and pour it in.

Out of curiosity, why not pour it into the machine through the door before starting the wash?

Because if its like my Beko it will drain the machine after closing the door before it starts the wash cycle

[beardy]

Good Point.

I have mine on a timer, so I start the wash cycle then stop it and transfer the plug to a timer. Without electricity the door lock will open after a few seconds, so I can then pour in any liquids and when the timer kicks in it starts again from where it left off.

I can see that would all be a bit of a faff if not doing it anyway, as I am. Also more modern machines may not like it. Might be worth a try though just to unplug, leave a few seconds until the door lock clicks and then pour in liquids, close door and turn the electric back on. Obviously before there is a lot of water in the machine.

[Paulatic]

When the washing machine is filling I open the soap drawer, carefully, and pour it in.

Out of curiosity, why not pour it into the machine through the door before starting the wash?

When the program starts you hear a little chug chug, I think that's it checking there is no water remaining in drum from last wash, before filling with water. If it detected what you'd put through the door it would pump it out.

[beardy]

Yes, that is so.
You would have to interrupt the wash cycle after it started (as in the post above your last one).
Only worthwhile if pouring through the tray was causing spillage.

[Neilo]

Remove detergent drawer, clean out all detergent, refit drawer. Set the machine running on whatever cycle you are going to use.
When you can hear it filling, open drawer slightly, you will see water running through it to wash in the powder that is usually in the drawer, tip your tech wash in, close drawer, and wait for the clothes to wash. Job done.
It has always worked for me.

[mnichols]

[quote="jk49http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4556 is highly recommended reading for this.

This is a good article, but quite complex. My three waterproofs are a thin packable Gore for summer, an Endura Stealth for when it's cold, and a Castelli Gabba . The first two are excellent and in reality probably all I need. The Castelli Gabba was a very recent present and I have only worn it twice, but also seems very good.

The first two are both a few years old and have lasted well. I wash with Nik Tech Wash, reproof (DWR) with Nik Wax,and then tumble dry or iron on a low heat to reactivate. I will probably swap the Nick Wash for soap flakes or similar

Should I treat the Gabba the same?

One supplementary question, how do you get oily marks off a waterproof? This seems especially difficult