Ridgeback Panorama Deluxe

[Bmblbzzz]

A friend has that 'metallic burnt orange' frame but there seem to be lots of slightly different frames under almost the same name. All, I think, same geometry, but different materials! Burnt orange is 635. Link in first post of this thread goes (now at least) to one in 853. Yo Stumpy's is... not sure?

[mikeymo]

I have one of these I got mine in August and its a nice bike, I cant compare it with other similar bikes but its a nice ride and as Brucey says perhaps disks are not really required and they (the spyres) are my first foray into mechanical discs and have found them easy to adjust (once I had looked on youtube).
The rack is cheap and cheerful I havent had panniers on mine yet so cant say how strong it is.

I have swapped out the front wheel for a dyno hub and mavic rim but I still have the original rear wheel which has had no issues so far, the weird looking original saddle was binned in favour of a charge spoon.

The oddity is the drop outs on the forks they face forward and really confused me to begin with as I had undone the quick release and the wheel wouldn't drop out you have to slide it forwards, it was certainly a new one on me.


Overall Im happy with mine.

I can confirm there are bosses on the forks, at least there are on mine

I realise this thread is old, but-

the front facing front drop-outs may be a safety thing. There is a safety concern with disc brakes that when the brakes are applied, the force applied by the caliper, on a vertically mounted front brake, is effectively trying to push the wheel downwards. Sort of explanation under 'Lawyers Lips' in this Wikepedia article:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_end

The 'problem' seems to be a bit more to do with QR hubs than the disc brakes themselves. But I suppose it could happen (and apparently has). I think there was a big recall of one particular make of bike due to loose QRs.

On another subject, I'm looking at this bike. Would you mind me asking what size you bought, and what height you are?

[yostumpy]

On another subject, I'm looking at this bike. Would you mind me asking what size you bought, and what height you are?

the bike in the photo's (Olive) is a 60 cm xl, and i'm 6'2", but I do tend to have the saddle a little lower and further back than i used to. I have a 100mm zero rise stem,and Nitto noodles, and the saddle is a Spa Nidd, mounted on a Nitto sp 72 jaguar extra layback seat post. It is now fitted with stronglight impact triple cranks. (polished silver)

[Ontherivet77]

I've got a Ridgeback Panorama 2011 and the negatives I'd say about the bike is that it comes with too long a stem and too short a head tube and mine (56cm) came with 175 cranks which I think are too long for me. I also shredded the seat clamp adjuster without any effort. Apart from that I think it's a great bike.
I noticed that you changed the stem length straight away, so even the larger frame sizes probably are set up with the wrong stem length.

[yostumpy]

I noticed that you changed the stem length straight away, so even the larger frame sizes probably are set up with the wrong stem length.

Olive came with a 120mm 7 deg (+/-) stem, and short ramp bars, but with long drop tails, but I swapped them for the 100mm 0 deg rise stem and the noodles, which have long ramps, so the hoods are near enough the same place, but the tops are prob 20mm closer.

[mikeymo]

yostumpy:

I notice that elsewhere you said after having 650B wheels (with 42mm tyres?) for a while you went back to 700c. If I ever manage to build this bike (I've got the Orange frameset) will be mainly on road, but a bit of tracky/gravelly stuff, in the Outer Hebrides, if it's ready in time. Or else just up here in sunny Yorkshire.

I've never ridden 650B, but I'm guessing they would be better for that, with fatter tyres on. Is there a reason you went back to 700c?

Thanks.

[mikeymo]

I noticed that you changed the stem length straight away, so even the larger frame sizes probably are set up with the wrong stem length.

Olive came with a 120mm 7 deg (+/-) stem, and short ramp bars, but with long drop tails, but I swapped them for the 100mm 0 deg rise stem and the noodles, which have long ramps, so the hoods are near enough the same place, but the tops are prob 20mm closer.

I see for a while you had 650Bs on this. I'm think of doing the same. I'd like to go up to 50mm tyres though. I've measured all I can, but it looks a bit tight, for mudguards, in the fork. I think you had 42mm tyres on. Do you think there'd be much room to go larger?

Thanks.

[yostumpy]

I noticed that you changed the stem length straight away, so even the larger frame sizes probably are set up with the wrong stem length.

Olive came with a 120mm 7 deg (+/-) stem, and short ramp bars, but with long drop tails, but I swapped them for the 100mm 0 deg rise stem and the noodles, which have long ramps, so the hoods are near enough the same place, but the tops are prob 20mm closer.

I see for a while you had 650Bs on this. I'm think of doing the same. I'd like to go up to 50mm tyres though. I've measured all I can, but it looks a bit tight, for mudguards, in the fork. I think you had 42mm tyres on. Do you think there'd be much room to go larger?

Thanks.

Well!.... I was going to go for WTB Horizon 650 x 47, but couldn't get hold of them, so i must have thought they would fit, but they were effectively slicks. i know 2.2 knobblies defo wouldn't fit. TBH 42mm does give one all the 'plumpness' that is needed, ( they are indeed a FAT 42mm) but the GB Hetres were not up to coping with flint strewn British roads, and I ended up putting slime tubes in,but that sort of defeated the object , as they then became rather sluggish. I think Schwalbe do a 650b tyre, so if you buy from wiggle or crc or similar, then you are safe to return quite easily. If you buy s/h 650b wheels, be careful what you buy. Shimano hubs are good, but I've heard that another make (can't remember name) have probs with bearings, cassette freehub etc. Also a LOT of 650b wheels on the 'bay' are hollow axle, so make sure you get a pair with std QR,axles, and obviously if you are running rim brakes, then make sure the rim is not a disc rim ( but you know this I'm sure) its just easy to get carried away when bidding. Best of luck and do keep us posted on your progress.

[yostumpy]

yostumpy:



I've never ridden 650B, but I'm guessing they would be better for that, with fatter tyres on. Is there a reason you went back to 700c?

Thanks.

Erm!........ well, the wheels I bought s/h and were in good condition, (basically new) but were not of great quality. All black, no name components, etc, but it was an experiment, and I was not prepared to spend loads of cash on good wheels . In the end, after numerous spoke tweakages, visitations, anda desire to have a disc/dynohub prompted me to order a new set of wheels from Spa, in 700c, and I sold all my bits on, and made a small profit.. Not sure I would do it again, BTW here's a link to my thread on another forum re OLIVE , (few bits missing thanks to photbucket being greedy. https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=95381.0

[mikeymo]

Thanks very much for the response. I'd quite like to go for 47/48/50mm tyres, as that keeps the geometry and bottom bracket height identical to 700c x32. I'll use 170mm cranks anyway, perhaps even a little shorter, to allow for a little bit of 'sinkage'. As far as I can tell the back end will be OK, it's clearance in the forks that may be a bit tight, due to the way they curve in to the crown. Actually I think the tyres will be fine, it's the mudguards that might be tight or need a bit of creativity with hacksaw or similar.

Did you find that 42mm made much difference to the 'feel' of the bike? I sometimes get the impression that when people talk about changes to this, that or the other component (tyre sizes, stem length etc.) the alteration is more imagined than real. Though of course pedal strike is a bit more of a worry, especially on a tourer. I think 42mm gives a wheel 18mm small than 700c x 32, so that's 9mm lower, plus a bit more tyre drop, with softer tyres.

[yostumpy]

Ran the 42's a bit squishy and I use 175 cranks, and never grounded a pedal, but how many people actually pedal whilst leaning the bike right over? Was ok for rough stuff as well. I think the reverse is true re your front / rear spacing , if anything it will be a tighter fit on the rear, chain stays at the BB end . Later on I will send you some pics of the wheel tyre combo, with an appropriately held tape measure. Noticed on EBay last night a pair of 650 wheels with WTB 47's on for £250 but can't remember if they were disc ( think they were) or std qr.

[mikeymo]

Yostumpy - I can't quite tell from your photo. How did you fix the front left hand mudguard stay on Olive?

I've just gone through a right performance and bodgery with mine, in the end using the rack mounting point on that side, and doing some serious bending of the stays. It works, but it sure ain't pretty.

Yours seems to be attached where it's meant to, but I can't quite see.

A quick search reveals that everybody is doing some sort of adaption for this. I can't believe there isn't a ready made widget, instead of all of us doing all sorts of M5 jiggery pokery. 'Mudguards with disc brakes' reveals about 5000 forum discussions, but no products.

I'll post some pictures when I've got time, but right now I've got to get ready to lash this to the top of the car and head into the wilds of Alba.

[yostumpy]

IMG_0152 by mark tilley, on Flickr

IMG_0151 by mark tilley, on Flickr

Hope this helps.

[mikeymo]

The 60cm size Olive(love it! ) has a 72 degree seatube angle,which should be OK for most folks,but the 58cm=73 deg,57cm=74deg,56cm=73.5deg (error?) 54&52cm=74deg,50&47=74.5deg,IMHO these are steep without need,the two smallest sizes could've been 26in wheels to account for a slacker ST without compromising reach.
The problems begin when you're either long thighed or like the saddle well behind the BB.With the limited adjustment rearward of Brooks saddles it gets to be a problem for more than a few people,and has been the subject of many a thread on here in the past.
Though thankfully the two seatposts I linked to in my previous post will solve the problem,though think if you bought a new car and was told you'd need a driving seat extra bracket of £100 so you could fit in it

Strangely I can't find any geometry figures on BJ's site,though there's a lot of info on colours and lugs

I've built up a bike using the Orange frameset version of this bike - Ridgeback Panorama Deluxe.

I'm not sure the frame is perfect for me, for the exact reason you've given, struggle to get a Brooks saddle far enough back.

Where did you get those figures for STA? I can't find any geometry anywhere.

Thanks

[reohn2]

The 60cm size Olive(love it! ) has a 72 degree seatube angle,which should be OK for most folks,but the 58cm=73 deg,57cm=74deg,56cm=73.5deg (error?) 54&52cm=74deg,50&47=74.5deg,IMHO these are steep without need,the two smallest sizes could've been 26in wheels to account for a slacker ST without compromising reach.
The problems begin when you're either long thighed or like the saddle well behind the BB.With the limited adjustment rearward of Brooks saddles it gets to be a problem for more than a few people,and has been the subject of many a thread on here in the past.
Though thankfully the two seatposts I linked to in my previous post will solve the problem,though think if you bought a new car and was told you'd need a driving seat extra bracket of £100 so you could fit in it

Strangely I can't find any geometry figures on BJ's site,though there's a lot of info on colours and lugs

I've built up a bike using the Orange frameset version of this bike - Ridgeback Panorama Deluxe.

I'm not sure the frame is perfect for me, for the exact reason you've given, struggle to get a Brooks saddle far enough back.

Where did you get those figures for STA? I can't find any geometry anywhere.

Thanks

It's on Ridgeback's website for the Panarama just scroll down below sizing.