1. It doesn't bother me, but I think that the mods generally ask that when quoting from a long post, you do not include the quoted post in its entirety, otherwise it clogs up the thread and make it harder to read through. So it's advised just to copy the specific comment you want to refer to, or to quote just the first and last sentences with something like <SNIP> inserted in between.
2. Remember that what I am saying is only my opinion, based largely on my own personal experience. People are all different and have different shaped bodies. What suits me may not suit others and vice versa. (Which is why I have tried to explain my preferences and thoughts, so that you can consider whether you might be likely to find the same.)
3. "
So that we're talking about the same thing, the bars I've got at the moment (FSA Wingbar 420mm 80mm by 120mm) are what you would call "sub compact" and roughly equivalent to the Deda RHM, yes? In fact it looks as though mine are even more 'squashed'." Well, they are what I call sub-compact. I think the manufacturers all like to try to persuade us that their particular variant of that shape is different to their competitors, but as far I as can see there is not really a lot of variation.
4. "
Presumably the Anatomica is similar, but with the extra flat section to make riding in "the hooks" more comfortable?" The so called anatomic bars with that flat section in the drops is the worst design of all IMO. It assumes/requires that your hands grip the drops at one wrist angle with no variation. Even if that wrist angle were optimum for you, it is unlikely that you would be comfortable maintaining the same grip for prolonged periods while in the drops. For me, the whole point of drop bars is that no one position is perfect - the perfection instead comes from the ability to keep varying the position of the hands on the bars, before a position becomes uncomfortable. I think of curved drops as an extension of this: by making very small movements of the hand up/down the curve it is possible to vary the wrist angle and delay the point where the position becomes uncomfortable after being in it for so long. For a somewhat different take on this subject, have a read of
Steve Hogg on the subject (531Colin rates Steve Hogg highly and has been quite open about the fact that his bike fitting guidance is based on a condensation of Steve Hogg's guidance.)
5. "
And the problem is that the bend is so tight there isn't much choice about where the STIs actually go, whereas with a curve with a longer radius you can put them more or less where you like? And even more so on the deep classic?" I don't know for certain with STIs, because I've yet to unwrap my bars and try (feel free to have a go and let us know what you find). Neverthless I am doubtful that STIs could be moved significantly further up the tight bend of (most?) sub-compact bars. My experience is that most ordinary plain brake levers have a wider range of movement/mounting positions than STIs or Campag Ergolevers, presumably because they have less surface area in contact with the bars above/below the clamp.
6. "
So your reason for choosing the classic shallows is to place the STIs where you want them? And have the levers more accessible in the hooks?" I started riding with classic shallow bars, and I never had any difficulty setting them up to get a position that was comfortable for a 100+ mile ride, and similarly no problem getting the hoods in a position where they just felt right and I could stay on them for hours without giving them any thought. There was no need for a bike fit, and none of us went round complaining that we could not get the bars set up properly. Personally I am not prepared to waste any more of my time trying to get a good set up with sub-compact bars and STIs, and am going back to what has always worked for me and countless others.
7. "
Is there a reason you aren't going for the deep classics?" I haven't tried them and don't feel any need to do so. I don't spend much time in the drops, but I do like the fact that I do not have to bend down much to hold the drops in a shallow curve. I'm sure they have their advantages though - Greg Lemond and (I think) Eddy Merckx used deep classic bars - one of which may be that for the same given height of the bottom of the drops, deep classic bars will have the top of the bars higher than a shallow curve, giving a slightly more upright position for climbing a big long hill. That might partly explain why they are not so much in fashion now: raising a deep bar higher is simple with a quill stem, but will need either additional spacers with a threadless headset (possibly too many spacers given the standard 30mm maximum for a carbon steerer) or possibly even the next size up frame*. See also Steve Hogg's comments in that linked article about palm size and shallow curve bars. NB I think the Nitto Noodle bar mentioned by 531Colin is similar to a deep classic curve bar, and you can see a nice example of a bike set up with one and plain brake levers
here.
8. * Which is another thing while I'm on the subject. I think the sub-compact bar shape has gone hand in hand with many people choosing either a smaller frame than used to be normal, i.e. choosing small if they are on the cusp of small and medium sizes, or having fewer spacers under the stem. A smaller frame will typically have a shorter head tube, resulting in the drops being lower, and I think sub-compact bars may have been introduced to counteract the effect of lowering the drops by bring them backwards closer to the rider.
9. A final thought about brake lever hood shape. In many of the photos I've posted/linked to above, you will see the hoods angled upwards, giving what I think of as akin to a 'pistol grip' for the hand to hold and rest on. Crucially, that hood angle determines the amount of bend in the wrist: the upwards angle of the hoods requires minimal bend on the wrist, i.e. the wrist is in line with the forearm. Because the hoods are curved, that also allows for a bit of variation in how/where the hands grip the grip the hoods while still keeping the wrist straight, something which will not be the case with a flat hood.
With modern STIs mounted with the flat area of the hoods horizontal, you will probably only have little or no bend in the wrist if you have a full on road race set up with the bars significantly lower than the saddle. If the bars are at the same height as the saddle, then you will probably have to bend the wrist to grip the STI hoods (imagine the bend in the wrist required to hold an antique flintlock grip). IMO wrist in line with the forearm with minimal bend should be the most comfortable option, and riding for long periods with the wrist bent is probably asking for trouble.