Any tips for buying secondhand?

General cycling advice ( NOT technical ! )
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Millhouse
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Any tips for buying secondhand?

Post by Millhouse »

I am going to look at a secondhand bike (E-Bay. DAWES GALAXY TOURING CYCLE, 21 SPEED, 531 FRAME Item number: 270207083508)
I have very little experience of buying bikes, so does anyone have any simple tips of what to look out for?
Regards. Millhouse
JC4LAB

Post by JC4LAB »

If Ebay then all the serious bidding starts just hours from the deadline..no point in bidding too early
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Millhouse
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Location: Clitheroe, Lancashire.

Post by Millhouse »

I was thinking more about what to look for if I go and see the bike.
Peyote
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Post by Peyote »

From my experience of secondhand bikes I'd say check out the frame and forks first, look at the bike from the front and back and see if any parts have been bent out of alignment. Check out the paint work, see if there are any cracks or ripples in it. Both of these are indicators that the bicycle has been in quite a hefty accident, especially a Galaxy, not exactly a lightweight, fragile frame!

If you're happy the frame is in good nick, i.e. no rust on the outside (could mean more and worse rust on the inside) and the paintwork looks okay, any touch ups, or dents that have been hidden. Look at the drivetrain, it's probably the most expensive bit to sort out, is it clean? Much rust? Any obvious 'shark fin' wear to the chainwheel teeth (the teeth gradually taken on the profile of a shark's dorsel fin as they wear down).

The Wheels - Do they move freely, is there any grating when you spin the wheels suggesting the hubs are shot? If you can, take the chain off and give the cranks a spin, a grating or sticking BB is also bit of a giveaway. What about the tyres? Cracks indicate they'll need replacing soon, how worn down they are may also be a giveaway as to how many miles the bike has done.

Next the gears and brakes, do they move freely? If they feel a bit sticky, or the gears don't change slickly, it could be that a new set of cables is required. Or the mechs and pivots on the brakes may need a spot of lube. Either way, it's best to check.

Hmm... ...that's all that springs to mind of the top of my head, if I think of anything else I'll post again. Hope it's useful!
pete75
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Post by pete75 »

I'd agree with all that Peyote says but as well as those checks trust your feelings. No matter how good the bike seems from objective checks be a little subjective - if anything about the bike/seller combination doesn't feel right walk away.
reohn2

Post by reohn2 »

Just to add what Peyote has said, check the rims by holding a straight edge and measuring with a steel rule across the braking surface if the surface is concave more than 0.5mm to0.75mm they are getting worn, also check around the spoke holes for cracks.
Obviously the price has alot of bearing on things so ask yourself if the bike is worth it for the price, remembering you are buying what someone else doesn't want for whatever reason, so ask youself is that reason reasonable.
pete75 Has taken the words out my mouth/keyboard,
just to add, ask as many pertinent questions as possible,and remember if in doubt do nowt (walk away)the last thing you want to be doing is buying stolen goods.
thirdcrank
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Post by thirdcrank »

One point - which is illustrated by this being a 21 speed - is that ike components have developed really quickly in the last 20 or so years. A lot of bikes are bought, used a couple of times and then go in the back of the garage, where they may remain for years. Unless they are stored in damp condiotions, they will come out almost as good as new. But 21 speed is obsolete equipment. You can get spares for the present. I am not sure if the Galaxy ever came with 7 speed freewheel, rather than a cassette, but that could eventually be even harder to source replacements.

The name Galaxy has been used by Dawes for 30+ years, but the only real continuity, apart from the name, is that each succedding model has been a good value tourer of that period. Equipment, frame tubing etc., has changed in line with current trends and availability.

Nothing wrong with buying something like this, particularly if it is in good condition, but don't pay a lot and don't do it with a view to upgrading. A bike of that age will have the obsolescent screwed headset and quill stem, and probably a narrow back hub compared with today's stuff.
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hubgearfreak
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Post by hubgearfreak »

thirdcrank wrote:Nothing wrong with buying something like this, particularly if it is in good condition, but don't pay a lot and don't do it with a view to upgrading. A bike of that age will have the obsolescent screwed headset and quill stem, and probably a narrow back hub compared with today's stuff.


i can't imagine that type of headset being unavailable during the life of the bike.

and the rear end can be easily re-spaced by a competent frame builder, or brave amateur :)

it's all about whether you'd like a classic bike, or would prefer one with up to date transmission and brakes, as i can't see that auction ending substantially cheaper than an equivalent last years model on special offer
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archy sturmer
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Post by archy sturmer »

Check that the seat post and the handlebar stem are not seized - slacken the relevant bolts and see if they'll move.
Seized ones can be fixed, but it's a major pain and you can assume that the seized parts will be destroyed in the process. So if they are seized factor in the cost of replacement and the hassle of removing them.
(If you've ever had to cut out a seat stem from inside a seat tube, you will NEVER again fit a stem without first making sure it's adequately protected against corrosion!)

- AS
That's not a recent photo, by the way
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hubgearfreak
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Post by hubgearfreak »

archy sturmer wrote:(If you've ever had to cut out a seat stem from inside a seat tube, you will NEVER again fit a stem without first making sure it's adequately protected against corrosion!)


too true :mrgreen:
MartinBrice
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Post by MartinBrice »

My LBS (Evernden in Paddock Wood) did a great job of shifting the seatpost in an old mountain bike but I simply couldn't do anything with it at all. So the seatpost check is worth doing.

Also, looking at what the Galaxy has fetched on Ebay in previous auctions, you may find this going for the best part of £400. Now that may well be a reasonable price for a good bike, but then again it might be a bit much for something that is getting on in years. Personally I'd pay more for a good frame, and have a proper LBS put on it the parts I wanted. But then again, if you get a Dawes Galaxy for say £200 or a bit more, you have a bargain - provided it is what you want. Don't forget that £400 buys a lot of new bike, especially if you buy last year's colour.
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horizon
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Post by horizon »

millhouse: this is a good bike to go for - excellent pedigree, little use. I don't think you'll be hampered by the 21 gears, but:

1. It is a little retro now (levers, gears, stem.)

2. ebay will price it right up - it won't be a bargain, just proportional to the cost of a new one.

3. Those gears hmmm....

If you love the look, go for it. But if you can afford a new one you might find it more practical and the price difference won't be huge.

PS I've bought two Dawes bikes on ebay and was delighted both times.

PPS New Galaxy £640 (Spa Cycles), recent ebay sale for one the same as the one you are looking at £165. I would say £300 max, anything less a bargain but only if you are happy with the older components.
When the pestilence strikes from the East, go far and breathe the cold air deeply. Ignore the sage, stay not indoors. Ho Ri Zon 12th Century Chinese philosopher
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piedwagtail91
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Post by piedwagtail91 »

i don't know how much you want to spend but, roger haydock (henry gregsons ,accrington) had a nice touring bike in a few weeks ago. columbus tubed and a campag mix 30 speed setup.i thiink it had all the pannier brazings on and had done very few miles.
i'm not sure what frame size you ride but he was after £800 for it.
was this the post i overheard you mention on the ride this morning!!
mick
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Millhouse
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Post by Millhouse »

What can I say. Thank you all very much for the time and effort in answering my question. Great advice and some really good PM's as well.
I intend (armed with my new found knowledge!!) to view the bike on Friday. I do have a price limit in mind and I have, in past auctions, had the determination to stick to it!
The only spanner in the works is that I am working on Saturday, when the auction finishes, in my Saturday job as a barman. So I will either bid my max or ask the boss if I can nip upstairs and use her computer!!
I will keep you all posted.
Regards
Millhouse
For the info of Piedwagtail, yes this was the bike I was talking about, just got back from the ride. Good to see that your computer is up and running!!
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hubgearfreak
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Post by hubgearfreak »

Millhouse wrote:The only spanner in the works is that I am working on Saturday, when the auction finishes, in my Saturday job as a barman. So I will either bid my max or ask the boss if I can nip upstairs and use her computer!!


let http://www.bidnip.com/ bid at the last few seconds for you

:D
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