...if there is any advantage to reversing the chain?

[rmurphy195]

I know the chain links will articulate through a greater angle on engaging and disengaging a smaller chainring, but a larger chainring will increase chain speed and therefore frequency of articulation (albeit through lower angles except, importantly, through the two pulleys where the articulation angles are greatest). Therefore I suspect a larger chainring actually causes more chain wear.

And a spinner will cause the links to articulate more frequently than a grinder. I think this matters more than the grinder’s higher load.

I would have thought the chainrings wouldn't make the chain articulate anywhere near as much as the deralleur jockeys and smaller sprockets!

[Mick F]

To be absolutely frank, I've seen the light.
Since getting the Moulton with Shimano stuff on it ............ it's cheap.

Yes, I'm using a Campag 10sp Veloce chain as they are really good, and also bought spare 11t sprockets at £3 each ............. it's all throw away stuff.
The small sprockets wear alarmingly and you can replace the worn ones ............ you try buying a separate sprocket from Campag.

Yes, I keep it clean so it will last longer and look nicer, but the days are gone when I'll be buying a £70+ Campag cassette.
I may even buy a new hub to take Shimano for the Mercian ............... and that's saying something.

£20 odd for a decent Shimano cassette with a wide variety of sizes and with cheap individual sprockets, wins hands down.

Keep it all clean, and replace when necessary.

[Brucey]

Higher chain speed means more articulations per unit of time, which must increase chain wear over the derailleur pulleys that have the greatest articulation angle in the system. But perhaps not much wear occurs in the low-tension run.

below a certain load, even the most feeble lubricant film will separate the metal surfaces and there will be little or no wear.
This is why the jockey pulleys don't wear out instantly, and part of why using larger chainrings and sprockets is a good thing.

cheers

[Mick F]

This is why the jockey pulleys don't wear out instantly, and part of why using larger chainrings and sprockets is a good thing.

Agree.

When I've consumed my spare 11t sprockets, no doubt the rest of the cassette will be on its way out, so I'll be buying new one with the smallest cog at 12t.
This one for instance in 12-28
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra- ... 1-2512-28/

The latest Moulton TSR comes with a special Moulton hub and a 10t cassette.
http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk/models/TSR.html

Absolutely barking mad.

[landsurfer]

I've just replaced a cassette and chain, not due to wear but due to a low gear option i want.
The cassette and chain have done only 400 miles together.
Is it worth keeping them together for future use or just recycle ?

Your thoughts quickly please so i can retrieve them from the bin ......

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi.
You are joking.....................

Keep or give away

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Larger sprockets same ratios mean higher chain speed and lower chain tension, the jury is still out on that one.

But larger chainwheels mean the chain rides higher on the teeth..................

Oh................not worth getting hands dirty by reversing chain, little to be gained I.M.O.

[Brucey]

Larger sprockets same ratios mean higher chain speed and lower chain tension, the jury is still out on that one.

Not really. It is measurably more efficient and everything lasts longer. No Brainer....

cheers

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Larger sprockets same ratios mean higher chain speed and lower chain tension, the jury is still out on that one.

Not really. It is measurably more efficient and everything lasts longer. No Brainer....

cheers

Hi,
Yeh but............larger chain wheels (front) mean the chain rides up on the teeth?

[Brucey]

Yeh but............larger chain wheels (front) mean the chain rides up on the teeth?

when it is worn.... but...

a) how much different is that do you think, between chainring sizes? and
b) what is so bad about that anyway...?

cheers

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,

Yeh but............larger chain wheels (front) mean the chain rides up on the teeth?

when it is worn.... but...

a) how much different is that do you think, between chainring sizes? and
b) what is so bad about that anyway...?

cheers

Yeah but...no but..yeah but no...........but

I suppose I was comparing old school 52t to modern 42, that's mtb compact, but times moved on and we have compact road 53-39 whatever where I doubt any roadie ever looks at the hidden smaller ring.

So its a higher chain speed overrides your part worn chain on a top ring road bike.
I think that original concept was to make drive train lighter / less abusive and save damage to boulders.
I understand that it is also comparable to different rings on same crank.
Chain noise, that must mean something in efficiency?
Small rear top cogs, even on a new set up you can hear the crunching................on a bike stand.
Derailleur chain drive a bit unique to bicycles, you would never use that set up in industrial stuff.
Very easy for marketing LBS to suggest the chain is worn by pulling the chain at the big ring.
I must be old fashioned

[Mick F]

Hi,
Larger sprockets same ratios mean higher chain speed and lower chain tension, the jury is still out on that one.

Not the Cornish jury.

Big sprockets and big chainwheels wear slower.
The smaller the sprocket, the fewer the teeth, the more the load on each tooth ................. therefore wear alarmingly.
Last 11t sprocket I wore out, was ditched at 1,769miles.

I wonder if I'd had a smaller chainring and a 10t cog instead, how long it would have lasted?
Where can you buy an individual 10t cog?
Even if you could, it would cost an arm and a leg.

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,

Hi,
Larger sprockets same ratios mean higher chain speed and lower chain tension, the jury is still out on that one.

Not the Cornish jury.

Big sprockets and big chainwheels wear slower.
The smaller the sprocket, the fewer the teeth, the more the load on each tooth ................. therefore wear alarmingly.
Last 11t sprocket I wore out, was ditched at 1,769miles.

I wonder if I'd had a smaller chainring and a 10t cog instead, how long it would have lasted?
Where can you buy an individual 10t cog?
Even if you could, it would cost an arm and a leg.

Don't think you want to go that route, Brucey won't condone that either

[BigG]

MickF is right. Keep it clean and change when necessary. Any extra mileage available from turning a chain (if any exists at all) is only going to yield the cost of a few cups of coffee. Use good mid-range chains (KMC is my current choice - without any fancy chrome links). Wear on sprockets and chainrings is much more important. The simple procedure of changing a chain when it has worn (stretched) by 0.5%, i.e. half a link on a normal chain, is somewhere near optimum.