Aheadset adjustment advice

[Mick F]

Yes, I agree with you ................... however, once I'd sussed out how to do it properly, it's a doddle. It's not as if you have to take it on and off much anyway .............. and if you did, doing it my way, the wedge thingy is solid and strong in position and will remain so until and unless I whacked the thing with a lump hammer.

Just been to play - as per your suggested method.

You're dead right Mick

Many thanks for figuring out what I couldn't from the supplied instructions

Big smiley face here!


Glad to be of assistance.
I have a mental trait - obsessive and autistic a bit - and I don't like to be defeated by something. I'll fret and worry about it and try to figure out what's going on. I may not always get there, and I may worry about something for years, but I know with this thing, I have it banged to rights.

TBH, now I've sussed it - and you have too - it's a good system and method, but it's a bad system and method if the instructions are bad in the first place.

[simonineaston]

My spacers on my TSR rotate.

So, just so as I'm clear in my mind what's going on here (it's been a few years since I regularly visited this forum...), are you saying, Mick, that you currently have a Moulton TSR?

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
Its an age thing

[Mick F]

My spacers on my TSR rotate.

So, just so as I'm clear in my mind what's going on here (it's been a few years since I regularly visited this forum...), are you saying, Mick, that you currently have a Moulton TSR?

Yes.
Bought it in March 2016 but has since been improved (by me) in many ways.

Gears - fitted a Sturmey Archer 3sp that takes the 10sp cassette - now have a TSR90
Brakes - Tektro brakes were bendy and vague - fitted Shimano
STIs were terrible - fitted Tekro levers and DT indexed shifters to the front rack bosses.
Seatpost - the carbon one kept slipping and also looked horrible IMO so fitted an alu one.
Headset Spacers - Carbon ones were horrible too, so swapped to alu ones.
Stem - removed the adjustable one and fitted a fixed one.
Handlebars - black ones gone, nice shiny ones fitted.
Saddle - fitted a Brooks Pro
Tyres - terrible Shwalbe Duranos gone, fitted Continental Grand Prix
Wheels - black Moulton ones replaced by shiny CR18s
Mudguards - originally boring black. Painted silver DIY.
Front Mudguard - cracked due to poor design. Repaired and strengthened and added an extra stay.

.................. I think that's it!

[Mick F]

PS
Going for a ride on it shortly.

[RickH]

There's no universal truths with the blessed things.... except for one; many years ago I was taught not to go nuts on a quill stem so that the handlebars would turn independently of the fork in the event of an overload/prang. This would help with avoiding crash or other accidental damage. With an A-Head stem this is not possible.

Would the addition of a locking spacer (such as the Problem Solvers one) mitigate this by adding an extra clamp so you don't have to do the stem bolts up quite so tight (also means you can loosen the stem to turn the bars without losing headset adjustment)?

[Brucey]

maybe, but the next problem is that an aluminium stem is usually rather stiff where it clamps; it might be too tight or too loose with no easily obtainable happy medium. Worth a go though...?

cheers

[simonineaston]

...just as a post script, today I reversed the order of my tightening, as described up thread, and find that the spacers are now harder to turn, and so I'm a Happy Chappy! Thanks again, everyone!