Best way to dry wet chain (post-ride)?

[MikeF]

I brush a dry chain with waxoyl. That reduces the amount of rusting.

[BigG]

Why bother? MickF's recommendation of waxoyl is sound; but if you keep your chain reasonaby well lubricated nothing more than a wipe with an old cloth is needed. Maybe some people's chains last longer than mine (I have only used cheap ones in recent years - mainly TAYA ) but I have never done more in well over 60 years of riding. I simply renew at about 0.5% elongation (half a link on the full length)

[Brucey]

Sorry, meant to add that my chief issue with using GT85 is that although it does evapourate and leave a dry film of Teflon,

it does no such thing and nor does it claim to. The ~25% that is left behind comprises an oil with tiny flakes of PTFE in it (which are of dubious benefit). Try spraying some into an open container and leaving it for a few days.

I am concerned that:

1) Has it actually stopped being liquid right inside the inner surfaces of the chain before I re-apply wax?

no, it will dilute a thicker lube slightly, even when the solvent has evaporated

2) Does the Teflon interfere with the adherence and functioning of the wax?

of course it does. But the wax is basically rubbish (in UK winter conditions) anyway. Almost useless; use something else.

cheers

[Brucey]

One other problem with GT85 and WD40 is that they work their way into the freehub body and dissolve the grease. I have never had a freehub body rust up since keeping spray lubes off the chain 15 years ago. I was getting thorugh one or two a year on my MTB beforehand

It might not be what you think; fifteen years ago is about when shimano began to make seals in the back of the freehub body standard equipment on most of their decent quality hubs. You can spray GT85 and WD40 over these to your heart's content. In fact it is a good idea, because it helps to ensure that the seal lips don't run dry and wear prematurely.

cheers

[hamster]

That's interesting - it was Chris Juden who tipped me off about the evils of GT85 on chains...mind I'm still running the same older hubs with STX freehub bodies which pre-date the modification.

[Brucey]

the worst thing you can do is spray GT85 liberally on a chain and then to immediately ride the bike; the result will be that the chain is only a little better off than if it had almost no lubricant on it; the film strength of the lubricant when there is that much solvent present is very low indeed.

However if the GT85 is left overnight, so that the solvent evaporates, there is some lubricant film strength rather than none; the oil in GT85 (left after the solvent has evaporated) is only a bit thinner than the kind of thing that many people use on their chains anyway.

If using GT85 as a water displacer, spraying and then wiping soon after removes most of the water without much degrading any thicker chain lube that might be lurking in the innermost recesses of the chain bushings.

cheers

[mattsccm]

Chain saw oil is good and way cheaper than fancy cycle specific stuff. Now for and investigate what the professionals use to save money when using a saw every day.
If it costs nowt then you can use it frequently.

[francovendee]

Chain saw oil is good and way cheaper than fancy cycle specific stuff. Now for and investigate what the professionals use to save money when using a saw every day.
If it costs nowt then you can use it frequently.

I started using this 6 years ago after being told about it.

I get double the mileage out of my chains using it.

I've tried other things, purpose made lubs, clean engine oil but this is the best.

I haven't tried white lightning so can't comment on this.

I got really soaked 4 days ago and left the bike in an unheated garage. Looking today there are no signs of rust on the chain.

[Thornyone]

Chain saw oil is good and way cheaper than fancy cycle specific stuff. Now for and investigate what the professionals use to save money when using a saw every day.
If it costs nowt then you can use it frequently.

I started using this 6 years ago after being told about it.

I get double the mileage out of my chains using it.

I've tried other things, purpose made lubs, clean engine oil but this is the best.

I haven't tried white lightning so can't comment on this.

I got really soaked 4 days ago and left the bike in an unheated garage. Looking today there are no signs of rust on the chain.

This sounds promising. Can you give me any indication of the sort of mileage you tend to get out of a chain? My problem with wet lubes has been that my mileage was poorer than it is using generously-applied and frequently topped-up dry wax. The other things I like about the wax are that my fingers stay cleaner should chain removal be necessary (for puncture or thorough bike clean) and that I never bother to/need to clean the chain itself.

[pwa]

Don't bother. Bike goes in the shed without a further thought and I ride it again tomorrow and the next day. Once every week or so I splash a bit of a wet lubricant on it and all is fine. Chain, sprockets, chainring are removed and cleaned in the spring.

My preference for several years now has been to use White Lightning wax lube. Using this I get 2,500-3,500 miles out of a chain.

Therein lies the problem. I tried White Lightning about 20 years ago and quickly came to the conclusion that wax was ok for a pampered machine that was cleaned and dried after any ride, but no good for daily use. Hence I use wet lubricants and probably get twice your mileage out of a chain. My most pampered machine tends to be treated to Purple Extreme, my daily use ones use Finish Line wet.

Finish Line Wet on a fairly good chain. Don't let any of the chain go out without lube. No drying needed.

[Thornyone]

I think it is only fair to say that I feel I could probably get quite a bit more mileage out of my chains than I do, because the chain still works without slipping, on even the least-used (smallest) cog without slipping, at the point I tend to scrap it. I only change it because I don't want to push my luck and come unstuck with a breakdown miles from home. I note that Mark Beaumont on his 80 day round the world epic was getting only 8x240 miles out of his chains, presumably not only because of very hard riding but also as a precautionary measure (money being no object here).

[francovendee]

On average my chains last 3000 miles. I use three chains and change them for cleaning every 500 miles.

This means a set of chains and a cassette last just under 2 years.

A lot of my riding is on tracks so I get dust in the summer and mud in the winter.

If you use chainsaw oil it's really important to wipe as much as possible off the chain.

Enough seeps out of the links to stop the rust. If you don't clean off as much as possible it becomes a magnet for dirt and rapid wear.

[Greenbuilder]

How about ATF (automatic transmission fluid)?
It's in the power steering in my van.
I wash my mountain bike after each muddy Dartmoor ride, wipe the chain with dry rag then on with the ATF, in an old finish line bottle. I think it gets into the chain better than chainsaw oil, which I tried last year.
I was told by a motorcycle mechanic that Scottoiler automatic chain oiler oil is v.similar to ATF.

[Brucey]

...I was told by a motorcycle mechanic that Scottoiler automatic chain oiler oil is v.similar to ATF.

It isn't really; scottoiler oil contains a stringing additive, and anti-fling additive and has a different viscosity profile, amongst other things. ATF is OK-ish as a winter chain lube though.

cheers

[NUKe]

On average my chains last 3000 miles. I use three chains and change them for cleaning every 500 miles.

This means a set of chains and a cassette last just under 2 years.

A lot of my riding is on tracks so I get dust in the summer and mud in the winter.

If you use chainsaw oil it's really important to wipe as much as possible off the chain.

Enough seeps out of the links to stop the rust. If you don't clean off as much as possible it becomes a magnet for dirt and rapid wear.

I have a small deep fat fryer filled with Chainsaw oil , which I use on a fairly low temp this just helps the oil flow a bit more freely, this helps to get the excess if you drip dry and wipe down afterward. I also have a traditional oil can filled with chainsaw oil so I can drip on either chains I do not remove to oil, or for interim top ups If I don't have time to remove in between.

Like Francovendee I usually get around 3000 to 3500 from a chain on an upright bike , I use four chains in rotation and do try to eak out to 4000. then ditch Chain and Sprockets. Chain rings just get replaced as and when they need it. I have yet to determine chain life for the recumbent. because the Chain is about 2.5 normal chains , Hoping to get a bit more