SKS Rear Mudguard Bridge: metal or plastic?

[horizon]

(I've put this in does anyone know as it isn't very technical.)

I've recently bought a pair of SKS mudguards that came supplied with a plastic rear bridge. It's OK but I would have preferred a metal one. However, the one on the original mudguard was metal and had in fact broken. So any views on which is better - plastic or metal?

(They are very cheap so I might buy a spare or two.)

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mudguards/3 ... idge-each/

[gaz]

I expect I have one or more metal ones in the spares box from P45s. I'll check tomorrow.

[toontra]

The metal ones break so regularly I carry zip ties specifically to bodge a repair when/if it happens. Surely the plastic ones are better?!

[cycleruk]

Had the metal ones break besides rattling on the odd occasion.
The plastic one has been all right so far.

[horizon]

Thanks! That does change things somewhat! Anyway it's on now and seemingly very secure.

And my next question is ....

Why (or how) do SKS use stay-ends that mean you have to cut the stay in order to adjust it (if you want to retain the plastic stay-end)?

[Psamathe]

When the metal one on my Chromoplastics broke I didn't have a spare so "raided" the plastic one from an old pair of Blumels. But the tang of the plastic one was not properly square to the fixing bolt and whilst it worked, the bridge was twisting the mudguard a bit. Didn't do any damage but not ideal and I did replace it with a new metal one after a few weeks.

Ian

[rjb]

I drilled and tapped a m5 thread in my frame brake bridge and bolted it up using a mushroom head allen screw. No more pesky mudguard bridges. This only works if you have cantilever or v brakes.

[foxyrider]

I have had many metal bridges break over the years but not one of the plastic ones. Current guards have been fitted for several years now and show no signs of the usual failure.

Oh they are SKS guards

[toontra]

Which makes me think I should get a plastic one for my 35's - but where? Can only see the plastic ones on German sites and I'm not paying £10 postage for a £1 item!

[horizon]

I've posted as well on an old mudguard thread:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=108983&p=1242414#p1242414

[Brucey]

a significant problem with plastic bridges is that if you use caliper brakes where the brake centrebolt goes through the bridge, you can't tighten the brake bolt fully any more.

Metal ones every time for me! They are prevented from breaking by

a) fitting the mudguard without strain on the bridge and
b) fitting washers either side of the slot in the bridge so that it cannot flex at the bottom of the slot

cheers

[Mick F]

My Moulton ones came with a black plastic rear bridge, so I ditched it and fitted a spare stainless steel one.
Much better, and stronger too.
Plastic ones cannot fit properly as they are too thick and squidgy so you can't fit your rear brake properly .......... just like Brucey says.

Mercian has the front and rear bridges drilled and tapped so you drill a hole in the mudguard to fit them. Consequently, I had a rear spare.
The front fitting gets removed.

[TrevA]

I had the problem Brucey mentions on my wife's winter bike with a plastic bridge, though it is possible to get longer Allen key nuts to accommodate the bridge. I ended up zip tying the bridge to the seat stays - one tie to each side. Looks a bit messy but it works. The mudguard is rock solid and has done 2 winters of service with this arrangement.

[Brucey]

even if there is enough bolt length to fit a plastic bridge onto a caliper brake centrebolt, it still ain't a smart idea; if the bolt is tightened fully it will often just crush the plastic bridge. If left looser than that and the threadlock doesn't prevent the fastener from backing out, the brake can work loose or fall off.

cheers

[fausto copy]

even if there is enough bolt length to fit a plastic bridge onto a caliper brake centrebolt, it still ain't a smart idea; if the bolt is tightened fully it will often just crush the plastic bridge.

cheers

Or just snap it altogether, like wot I have just done.