Cycling UK Forum

if you were really desperate you could rebuild that with new ball bearings but it would always run rough because the raceways are damaged. It is a cheap option though; a packet of (probably 1/8") basic ball bearings is only going to be a few quid and no special tools are required. It might do if all you want to do is see if the bike suits you or not, even it merely postpones a proper repair.

If the bearings are non-cartridge type (difficult to be sure from the pictures) I think a new headset is probably the best option.

If it is 1" ahead type there is a good selection here;

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/headsets-1-ahead/

and some (including the cheapest) come with both common sizes of crown race (26.4mm and 27.0mm)

If it is 1-1/8" type then there is much more choice.

cheers

Looks like it could be one of these, on offer on eBay? You'd want to be sure though. Another seller here.

More Qs
Do I prise the bearing races out of the black headset cups?
I measured the stem diameter at 1" - does this mean I need a 1" headset bearing? (My simple brain tells me this, but...)

I'm getting better (I think)
Am I right?
To replace the whole headset with a new unit, I drift out the two black cups from my yellow frame tube? (They appear to have a plastic skirt inside)
Then press in the new headset components, slip the appropriate crown race onto the steerer tube (having prised the existing one off)
Fit the lower bearing, fit the steerer tube in, fit the upper bearing, and tighten things up?

sounds like you do have a 1" ahead headset; see

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service

for details of how to change the headset. You may well need special tools to remove the extant parts.

cheers

Thanks folks for all this useful information.
If I can get a pair of replacement bearings, I can try to remove and replace the bearings only, but it depends on whether the crown race is good enough. I'd need to acquire special tools to remove and press in the bearings. £
If the worst comes to the worst, I can drift out the headset cups, and fit a complete new headset top and bottom, with the bearings already installed. These can come with new crown races, too. At £10-20 this seems a better bet.
I was keen on keeping things original, but it looks as if my current headset isn't original anyway
"threadless, Specialized S-Works Campagnolo Record headset "
But one if those will cost a bit too much.

Easy to drift out the headset cups?

Do steel headsets not create galvanic corrosion when paired with aluminium alloy?

drossall wrote:Where do you get the Campag spacers?

For me, it was a worn out campag cassette on ebay
Ambrosio do shimano splined Campag spaced cassettes 9,10 and 11 speed but not not many places stock them, Acycles do spacers for 99p each, you might find them cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.acycles.co.uk/miche-9-speed ... gKoLfD_BwE

You can buy expensive tools to remove & replace headsets & possibly these tools are a worthwhile investment if you're a bit flush, or you perform the operation rather frequently. However, youtube etc has many tutorials on how to go about changing out headsets and gives a few good pointers on bodging suitable implements to assist.

I'm no expert & have only changed out 4 headsets, but my toolkit for said procedure cost around a £10 or less:

ibgarrow wrote:….Easy to drift out the headset cups?

normally yes ( eg you can use a brass rod as a drift) , but difficult to do without marring them. So it is OK to get them out anywhichway if you are scrapping the headset, not so good if you want to re-use it. You can fit headset cups using very basic tools (like a hammer and a block of wood) if you want to but this carries a greater risk of damage, especially if you have not done it before.

Do steel headsets not create galvanic corrosion when paired with aluminium alloy?

they can do but this usually isn't a big problem. However if the parts are installed bone dry and then sprayed with salty water (eg from winter road salt) then yes the corrosion can progress quite quickly. There are numerous places on bikes where this can happen. Headsets suffer badly on mudguardless bikes that are used in all weathers, so do bottom brackets, seat pins, handlebar stems, you name it....

cheers

As someone with a considerable deficit when it comes to all things mechanical I would not dream of offering technical advice. However, I want to thank the OP for asking his question: stupid is the last thing I'd call either the poster or the question. The ensuing advice has been great in content and kindly offered.

Many thanks.

ibgarrow wrote:Thanks folks for all this useful information.
If I can get a pair of replacement bearings, I can try to remove and replace the bearings only, but it depends on whether the crown race is good enough. I'd need to acquire special tools to remove and press in the bearings. £
If the worst comes to the worst, I can drift out the headset cups, and fit a complete new headset top and bottom, with the bearings already installed. These can come with new crown races, too. At £10-20 this seems a better bet.
I was keen on keeping things original, but it looks as if my current headset isn't original anyway
"threadless, Specialized S-Works Campagnolo Record headset "
But one if those will cost a bit too much.

Easy to drift out the headset cups?

It's not too bad of a job, but it does require extreme care in order to not damage anything. Use something relatively soft; copper, brass, or make something to fit.

You could check around shops near you and find out how much they would charge just for that job?

I have, in the past done everything myself except press the bearings. That, a clubmate did as favour. He had the tools and did the job for others from time to time, as well.

I've removed the headset cups from the frame quite easily. The crown race too-it's split.
Ordered a new headset as the bearings in this are completely shot. The upper one has come to pieces, and the lower one is immovable by hand!
Together with a chain, this is almost doubling the bike's initial cost! I hope it's worth it-if not, someone will get a bargain if I have to sell.
Once these are on, the tyres inflated (requiring a Presta adaptor which I don't have!) and new wheels fitted, i'll report on the Ultegra/Campagnolo compatibility.
Thanks to all the helpful posts here.

Update
New headset (Cane Creek) fitted, but waiting for more spacers as stack height not the same.
I stripped off the flaking paint from the metal part of the front fork, primed and resprayed it.
Question re: replacing chain.
Various instructions differ on fitment-some say to fit when derailleurs are at small sprockets front and rear, others at large ones.
One suggests measuring length of new chain by going round front and back largest sprockets but not rear mech, then adding 2 links.
The others recommend cutting new chain to same length as old one (but it's stretched!)
One suggests going round large f&r sprockets, including rear mech, pulling mech forward, then giving a little slack.
Any recommendations?

PS anyone need a 10-speed Campagnolo Record chain (new, unused)?

There is a discussion on fitting a chain here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=99757 including a few different methods, and a link to Park Tool site.

Now I'm in trouble.
I found the derailleur jockey wheels completely worn out, so new ones ordered, derailleur degreaser (mess) and wheels replaced. Now to fit my new chain...
Except my piece of crap Chinese chain tool was so imprecise, it's snapped off the rivet from the guide pin that guides it in. End result is that the rivet isn't entering the chain link straight, and I don't want to force the issue in case I damage the chain!

Any ideas, other than using a split link to join the chain?