Recommend me a bike...

[Scunnered]

I started doing a bit more cycling 2 years ago when I got a ubiquitous gravel bike. This is ideal for most of my use, but now I have started to longer charity rides. Next year I will be cycling from Geneve to Nice for a charity. With a daily average of 80 miles and 3000m ascent I think I would benefit from something a bit lighter than my sturdy gravel bike. Will not be carrying any luggage.

I'm not quite sure what to look for: an "endurance" bike? Funds are limited to the budget end of the scale, so I would rather a good aluminium frame with good components than a cheap carbon frame. I would not be averse to buying a frame and components separately as I would probably have to lower the gearing on a stock bike anyway. Finally, if it was stocked by Evans I could take advantage of the ride-to-work scheme to reduce my costs.
Recommendations please?

[NUKe]

If funds are limited stick with the Gravel bike, spend on a good set of tyres, and service the bike new chain sprockets etc, so it’s in good condition small bag either handle or under seat for treats along the way . Unless your a racing whippet, being in the right gear is more important than weight of the bike.

[keyboardmonkey]

The highest spec Giant Defy Advanced you can stretch to?

[softlips]

The highest spec Giant Defy Advanced you can stretch to?

This!

[whoof]

If funds are limited stick with the Gravel bike, spend on a good set of tyres, and service the bike new chain sprockets etc, so it’s in good condition small bag either handle or under seat for treats along the way . Unless your a racing whippet, being in the right gear is more important than weight of the bike.

If your funds are limited this plus possibly some lighter wheels. It's a great ride, did it a couple of years ago on what was my winter road bike at the time approximately 12 kgs with no bags, tools or water. We were staying in hotels but unsupported so one pannier on the flat and down hill and two on the climbs.
Make sure that your gearing is sufficiently low to be able to comfortably ride for a long time. The Cime de Bonette was not steep (other than the last 1km at 10%) but was something like 30 km long. I saw one of the team staff from a British pro team riding up on a team bike and he was over geared and really struggling. The last time I saw him he had stopped to vomit.

[Jamesh]

Last of the old model Boardman carbon bikes.

Some Nos were on eBay for £500.…..

Cannondale synapse the original endurance bike?

Genesis equilibrium if you like steel?

If funds are really tight Vitus razor?

Sure there are plenty more.

Cheers James

[PH]

I was going to write that you might be better off, as suggested by NUKe, changing the tyres and keeping your current bike. But in the history of the forum I doubt anyone looking for a new bike has ever accepted that advice, the call of a new bike is just too strong, so...
A decade ago the go to answer for this sort of bike was the Ribble Audax, aluminium frame, carbon fork, factory wheels and choice of groupset, it had a remarkable reputation for the price, you'd see them on every winter club run and Audax of all distances throughout the year. Things have moved on and there's a lot more choice, but the current equivalent probably still deserves a look
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-e ... no-tiagra/

EDIT - and thinking along the same winter trainer lines there's the Kinesis Racelight, which is another frame with a good reputation. I had a previous model, sold it for peanuts and put the wheels and components on a bling Ti frame, that rode no different...
https://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogu ... celight/T3
(Shop around, someone always has them reduced)

[PH]

Cannondale synapse the original endurance bike?

Do Cannondale claim that? Of the big brands I'm pretty sure the Specialized Roubaix and Trek Pilot were years before the Synapse, though maybe Cannondale coined the name. Smaller manufacturers had of course been doing the same thing for years, though again calling it something else.

[Jamesh]

Cannondale synapse the original endurance bike?

Do Cannondale claim that? Of the big brands I'm pretty sure the Specialized Roubaix and Trek Pilot were years before the Synapse, though maybe Cannondale coined the name. Smaller manufacturers had of course been doing the same thing for years, though again calling it something else.

Fair point!!!

Perhaps popularised it?!

As said before a lighter set of wheels would improve the bike no end. My Scott CX is transformed when I swap the alex wheels for the Rs10 pair.

Cheers James

[Scunnered]

Make sure that your gearing is sufficiently low to be able to comfortably ride for a long time. The Cime de Bonette was not steep (other than the last 1km at 10%) but was something like 30 km long. I saw one of the team staff from a British pro team riding up on a team bike and he was over geared and really struggling. The last time I saw him he had stopped to vomit.

Thanks for reminding me of this! This ride will be a huge challenge for me, well beyond my current capabilities, but I would be dissapointed if I had to be rescued by the support vehicle.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. My general options are:

The current gravel bike with lower gearing and possibly new wheels.
A big name brand eg Cannondale Synapse thru' ride-to-work
A used bike or frame built up to suit

I like the look of the Kinesis frames, and as I have plenty time I will keep an eye out for a used one with the other options as a backup.

[PH]

Thanks for reminding me of this! This ride will be a huge challenge for me, well beyond my current capabilities, but I would be dissapointed if I had to be rescued by the support vehicle.

Yes of course, but training rather than equipment will get your capabilities up to it. I know I'd prefer to be at my fittest on not quite the best bike than the other way round. You don't say when next year, but whenever it is it's never too early to start preparing. If you haven't already read it, could I suggest you get a copy of the Long Distance Cyclists' Handbook, last person I recommended it to found a copy for less than a quid, following the advice in that might do you more good than spending £100's on a new bike (Though that's not to stop you doing both!)

[slowster]

OP, you have not told us:

- what your current bike weighs (so we cannot compare its weight with possible alternatives)
- what you weigh (what is suitable/appropriate for a 60kg rider might not be so for a 100kg rider. The heavier you are, the less the bike weight is significant/accounts proportionately for your combined weight)
- what gearing your current bike has
- what wheels and tyres your current bike has.

Moreover, probably the most important thing is whether your current bike is actually comfortable. If you cannot get a good efficient position on your bike to complete 80 miles a day in the mountains for consecutive days in relative comfort, then its weight, gears etc. are irrelevant.

Lastly, you said no luggage and there's a support vehicle, but what would you need/want to carry with you during the day? If you have limited or no contact with the support vehicle during the day, then you need to plan to carry food, water, repair kit and extra clothes such as arm/leg warmers and waterproof. Even if the support vehicle stays in contact with riders during the day, you are are still likely to need to carry some or all of these things with you.

[pwa]

If the current gravel bike is a good fit and the frame is okay I think my inclination would be to improve it for the conditions you expect to encounter. Better wheels with really classy tyres will make it feel a lot better, and lower gears will be very welcome in the mountains. You could spend a lot on a new bike and still not get those lower gears.

[Scunnered]

OP, you have not told us:

- what your current bike weighs (so we cannot compare its weight with possible alternatives)
- what you weigh (what is suitable/appropriate for a 60kg rider might not be so for a 100kg rider. The heavier you are, the less the bike weight is significant/accounts proportionately for your combined weight)
- what gearing your current bike has
- what wheels and tyres your current bike has.

Current bike weighs 11.6kg with mudguards and small saddlebag
Lowest gear is a 36t sprocket on a 38t chainring (1x10)
I have a variety of tyres, including Continental Grand Race 32mm for road use
The frame is size XL, but I think it might be one size too big
I weigh 72kg

[djnotts]

"Lowest gear is a 36t sprocket on a 38t chainring (1x10)"

About 28" then - not low by my standards! Even a compact 50/34 will be better on hills.