Mike_Ayling wrote: Re clamping frame tubes:
A fellow club member, now deceased would not hang his aluminium framed bike on a bike beak for fear of crusching the top tube.
I can understand that carbon fibre tubes are not designed for such stresses but
I have always balanced my steel frame bikes on the top tube and used very little pressure on the clamp so very little crushing pressure from the clamp involved.
the lightest and flimsiest tubes can indeed be crushed simply by clamping them. But by far and away the biggest cause of damage is by folk swinging like a chimp on pedal spanners, BB spanners etc whilst the bike is in a workstand. The vast majority of this damage is simply avoided by clamping the bike by the seat post not the top tube.
Folk (that mostly underestimate the risks involved) say "ooh the bike moves in the workstand" or "it won't sit horizontal" or " it doesn't seem very steady' etc etc but that just underlines the fact that they don't really understand how to use a workstand safely. Professional bike mechanics will only clamp/rest bikes by the top tube if they are adjusting the gears or something; for anything else they clamp the seat post. In use the clamps are rarely done up very tightly; they usually want the bike to move in the workstand before it is liable to be damaged. In this respect even the cheapest and nastiest workstand will exert the same forces as those routinely used by professional mechanics and is therefore arguably safer (in unskilled hands) than a 'more stable/robust' one. Mostly if the bike is wanting to move or the workstand fall over, you are using it wrongly, simple as that.
One tip I do have for users of some workstands is that if the reach is adjustable, adjust it so that the LH pedal only just clears the upright, and have the tool tray facing away from you. This will make the stand as stable as possible. If the bike is a relatively heavy one, it isn't a bad idea to remove the LH pedal and again adjust the reach accordingly.
For routine fettling a workstand is a time-saver; a bike can be cleaned and adjusted more easily. Even if you do this fairly assiduously (say once every 500 miles) you might spend about 20 minutes in the workstand for every ~30 hours on the bike, i.e. the bike spends only ~1% of the time in the workstand. Accordingly it simply isn't worth spending a fortune on an expensive workstand if something else will do. Plenty of experienced cyclists and even bike workshops don't have conventional workstands; they use 'something else' instead.
If you are going to have a workstand in a typical domestic setting, I'd suggest that a) you might want to prioritise light weight (so it can be moved easily) and ease of folding (for storage) ahead of pretty much everything else and b) you learn how to use the thing properly before you break something.