Wireless cadence computers

[mercianman]

Hi, I have been using the Cateye cadence measuring computers produced for many years now, starting off with the wired models and latterly using their wireless models. I have noticed a sharp rise in the price of them over the last few years and they have added additional complexity, that I don't need. has anybody on here used any other make of cycle computer that offers a wireless, cadence measuring facility at a more competitive price than Cateye and how has the quality been??

[thatsnotmyname]

What is a 'competitive' price, in your view?

[mercianman]

Certainly under £50

[fullupandslowingdown]

No
I did have a cheapo make of wireless computer sans cadence, but I eventually gave up on it. Electronics on bicycles have always been at the cutting edge of vibration, cold and damp research...
What I do have is a bog cheap lidl wired computer modified as a cadence. I had to extend the wires to reach the pedal crank area, not a problem, just flexible wire soldered and then heavily insulated. (actually I only made this adaption after accidentally cutting through the wire when it was still used as a regular computer ) I then did a bit of maths and worked out what "diameter" my cranks needed to be to give a reading set in KMH as indicating cadence with the decimal point shifted. In use I mentally ignore the decimal point so for instance 8.4 means to be 84rpm. This way I can still register 100+ cadence rates which otherwise would bust the bank if it was all set to read with the point in place. I taped the magnet to the crank and hey presto a so far reliable set up. Does mean I have two heads on the bars instead of one.

[fastpedaller]

No
I did have a cheapo make of wireless computer sans cadence, but I eventually gave up on it. Electronics on bicycles have always been at the cutting edge of vibration, cold and damp research...
What I do have is a bog cheap lidl wired computer modified as a cadence. I had to extend the wires to reach the pedal crank area, not a problem, just flexible wire soldered and then heavily insulated. (actually I only made this adaption after accidentally cutting through the wire when it was still used as a regular computer ) I then did a bit of maths and worked out what "diameter" my cranks needed to be to give a reading set in KMH as indicating cadence with the decimal point shifted. In use I mentally ignore the decimal point so for instance 8.4 means to be 84rpm. This way I can still register 100+ cadence rates which otherwise would bust the bank if it was all set to read with the point in place. I taped the magnet to the crank and hey presto a so far reliable set up. Does mean I have two heads on the bars instead of one.

I've done exactly the same with a wireless one on my turbo trainer with the sensor on the back wheel (single speed) - had to mount the head on the top tube otherwise it's too far away though

[Tilley]

I have a wahoo bluetooth cadence sensor which links to my phone. Seems to work really well.